Clutch adjsutment on 1100

[ajd]

I've a '96 1100GS with 52,000 miles. Clutch isn't slipping at all but only bites at the very end of the lever travel now. I've checked the free play at the lever and it is still 5mm as per the Haynes manual but it is getting tricky to let the clutch in without a sharp take-up. I guess the actuator needs adjusting - is it just a case of backing the bolt out a coupel of turns and nipping up the locknut again (and adjusting the lever end too of course?)

 

[Timolgra]

No, not quite and I can't remember offhand the correct figures but it's something like. Screw the lever end adjuster right in then adjust the actuator to give 7mm (??) of play then adjust the slack out at the lever.

 

[MattW]

See below.
It's tricky without the special tool but possible with a wobble socket / extension bar and some perseverance.

 

[Canuck]

It's tricky without the special tool but possible with a wobble socket / extension bar and some perseverance.

Or just remove the rear wheel... it takes all of 2 minutes (because of the need to unbolt brake carrier)... and it all of a sudden becomes an easy job. I don't think the exact play is crucial... just that there is some play!

 

[g.s.john]

for the release lever adjustment lock nut you want a 13mm long socket the bolt is 10mm standard socket

 

[ajd]

Thanks lads, I'll give it a go. The Haynes manual used the phrase..."with a little dexterity" which makes me think you have to be a consultant gynacologist to get at the adjuster...

 

[Trullion]

The measurements were changed to 7mm free play at the lever, with the adjuster set at 12mm. Irrespective of this the key thing is that there is free play at the gearbox end i.e. the pushrod should not be loaded. I've always adjusted mine with the wheel in situ, using a UJ next to the 13mm socket and then an extension bar. I simply loosen the 13mm locknut and then adjust the 10mm nut check the measurement and then repeat - a bit like doing the valves when I allow for the effect of tightening the locknut.

To answer the original question, my guess is that the clutch is nearing its useful life. A quick, rough check can be made by removing the starter motor (a ten minute job) and measuring the thickness of the friction plate. If it's at or below 4.5mm - the specified minimum thickness - it's probably on its way out. I have the same problem on my 1100RS; for now I'm just being careful not to slip the clutch unnecessarily so that hopefully clutch renewal can wait until I've time to do it.

 

[ajd]

Thanks - starting to sound messy! What's a typical shop price for changing a clutch?

 

[Stewart H]

The first time I did the adjustment I removed the rear wheel and the shock too, that made the job very easy and I could see exactly what was going on.
If the clutch is not slipping then you likely have a while yet.

 

[g.s.john]

Thanks - starting to sound messy! What's a typical shop price for changing a clutch?

Before you start getting your boxer's in a knot do the adjustment first as been said make sure there is free play on the release lever if it starts slipping replace the clutch before it does any damage,
typical private job £400-£600, main dealer make sure you are sitting down when you get the quote

 

[ajd]

Good advice I think GS John. Will adjust first and sell the spare kidney later.

Actually I'd have a go at doing it myself.

 

[Steptoe]

The measurements were changed to 7mm free play at the lever, with the adjuster set at 12mm. Irrespective of this the key thing is that there is free play at the gearbox end i.e. the pushrod should not be loaded. I've always adjusted mine with the wheel in situ, using a UJ next to the 13mm socket and then an extension bar. I simply loosen the 13mm locknut and then adjust the 10mm nut check the measurement and then repeat - .

Thats the way to do it.

Don't worry get anal over precise measurements, just as long as you have some free play on the clutch arm at the rear of the gearbox.

 

[Canuck]

Complete new clutch parts can be had for just over £200.... after you do it the first time... I figure the second time can be done in around 6 hours... for me anyway!

 

[Den162]

Good advice I think GS John. Will adjust first and sell the spare kidney later.

Actually I'd have a go at doing it myself.

ajd - I have the same problem. The biting point is right at the end of the lever. Did your adjustments help or was it new clutch time?

 

[ajd]

Did a bit of adjustment and it seems better than it was - was pretty fiddly as I didn't have the BMW tool, as it is I'n not sure I managed to nip up the locknut. I've been wondering whether it is the cable that's stretched a bit and perhaps it isn't the clutch wearing out (wishful thinking perhaps...) OK for now anyway. Going to put 800 miles on it over a long weekend in a couple of weeks so we'll see how it copes with that.

 

[Steptoe]

ajd - I have the same problem. The biting point is right at the end of the lever. Did your adjustments help or was it new clutch time?

It doesn't mean your clutrch is worn out - Adjust it - You can have the biting whereever you prefer.

 

[MarkShelley]

I bought some cheap deep sockets at a Bank Holiday market today and adjusted my clutch just now. The socket was actually a fraction too long to enable a UJ to clear the shock. No problem, I just removed the shock remote adjuster by undoing one bolt and I was able to get the ratchet directly onto the end of the socket. Piece of piss
This was on my 1100. Not sure if this would be possible on others.

 

[MarkShelley]

I bought some cheap deep sockets at a Bank Holiday market today and adjusted my clutch just now. The socket was actually a fraction too long to enable a UJ to clear the shock. No problem, I just removed the shock remote adjuster by undoing one bolt and I was able to get the ratchet directly onto the end of the socket. Piece of piss
This was on my 1100. Not sure if this would be possible on others.

 

[MattW]

I bought some cheap deep sockets at a Bank Holiday market today and adjusted my clutch just now. The socket was actually a fraction too long to enable a UJ to clear the shock. No problem, I just removed the shock remote adjuster by undoing one bolt and I was able to get the ratchet directly onto the end of the socket. Piece of piss
This was on my 1100. Not sure if this would be possible on others.

There's no way you could do that on an 1150...

 

[MarkShelley]

There's no way you could do that on an 1150...

Don`t tell me I have found yet another reason why the 1100 is best