clutch and abs

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john lynch

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new to this.....love my gs but need new clutch and abs hydro control unit and good service.............parts are in the post, any advice on fitting???? please excuse broad nature of question!!
 
Hi John,
Give your self plenty of time to fit clutch its a right pain in the arse,
rearsub frame comes off, airbox, battery and fuse box, rear mud guard and light unit, rear wheel, exhaust, the gearbox and final drive can remain as one item but be careful removing from engine as clutch push rod can be easly bent, this I learn to my cost went trying to do it on me jack jones, get another set of hands to help to remove and refit other than that its straight foward, if working on a r1100gs and the clutch push rod is bent the replacement rod will be different from the orginal brass rod the new one will be all steel with a small grove about 4" from the rear where a piece of felt is fitted to stop oil from gearbox getting to clutch. Are you sure your abs unit needs replaced?
regards
Jose el celta
 
I agree with Celt, the clutch is a long job, not very difficult but lots of bits, especially the wiring - each connector is a different shape so thats OK, the problem is the cable routes - remembering what went where - you only realise you routed a cable the wrong side of the sub frame after you have fixed the air box etc so it all has to come back off. Also, to protect the push rod I practiced replacing the gearbox without the rod just to find the best way to hold and manouvre the box and check the clutch plate is central. Another thing you require is a hot air gun to melt the loktite on the swinging arm bushes - two hair driers in tandem does work but then I blew a fuse in the garage elect supply !

Even if it takes a long time to complete the clutch change it will still be a lot cheaper than paying somebody else to undo nuts and bolts

Jeff
 
Before you start changing you clutch it worth checking to see if your clutch operating arm is seized (gs1100). Located at rear of gearbox in front of swing arm. My one was, I changed the clutch before discovering this. It allowed enough movement to operate the clutch, lever felt completely normal, but the arm at the box end did not return fully, making clutch slip. I only found this out when the new clutch started slipping. I was about to commit suicide by jamming my head between the drive shaft and pillion hangers and getting my wife to jump on the seat when I noticed the offending lever through tear soaked eyes.. A gallon of wd40 and lots of skinned knucles later and it was done. And I lived to tell the tale. THE END
 
thanx for replies....going to wd40 clutch op arm firstly!!! failing that im going to the garage to get it sorted out, if i botch it i wont be able to go to france on saturday!!! my own fault for leaving it till the last minute..bmw garage says it will take 7 hours@ 60euros an hour! re the abs; no flashing lights...bulbs had been removed...motronic couldnt reset it..1900euro new!!! ordered recon one from motorworks for £290...hope it will be done on time. your advice made me realise it is a big job doing the clutch and im man enough to admit im not man enough to do it!! this website is so good im going to become computer literate!!
 
Hi John,
I hope I didnt put you off, its not that its a difficult job its just time comsuming eg taking the bits and pieces of and putting them back, but its well worth it just for the pleasure of knowing you done it yourself, it took me a full sunday to remove and fit my clutch. As Dennis says it could be just the clutch ajuster found rear of gearbox behind shock 10mm nut can be a bit tricky to get at but a simple job. As for abs hope new unit works out the only problem ive had was when battery flat not enought power to kick in abs, enjoy your trip to France some great roads there, what part of Cork you from some even better roads there.
regards
jose el celta
 
have got replacement abs control unit, any advice on fitting it?? im still going to france on sat even with 2 left hand side panniers!! the joys of mail order!
 
Den said:
Before you start changing you clutch it worth checking to see if your clutch operating arm is seized (gs1100). THE END

Den, I was just thinking of changing the clutch on mine, due to it slipping when I came across this post. I'll give it a bash. The bike has done kicking on for 70,000 miles on the original clutch, but it's mostly long distances, so not toooo hopeful this will solve it. Just seems to slip intermittently, so you never know. I would have thought if the clutch was going, it would slip continually..If this works, I'll buy you a pint next time I'm in the UK....I'll let you know../Rob
:cool:
 
Den said:
Before you start changing you clutch it worth checking to see if your clutch operating arm is seized (gs1100). THE END

Den, I was just thinking of changing the clutch on mine, due to it slipping when I came across this post. I'll give it a bash. The bike has done kicking on for 70,000 miles on the original clutch, but it's mostly long distances, so not toooo hopeful this will solve it. Just seems to slip intermittently, so you never know. I would have thought if the clutch was going, it would slip continually..If this works, I'll buy you a pint next time I'm in the UK....I'll let you know../Rob
:cool:
 
franco said:
Den, I was just thinking of changing the clutch on mine, due to it slipping when I came across this post. I'll give it a bash. The bike has done kicking on for 70,000 miles on the original clutch, but it's mostly long distances, so not toooo hopeful this will solve it. Just seems to slip intermittently, so you never know. I would have thought if the clutch was going, it would slip continually..If this works, I'll buy you a pint next time I'm in the UK....I'll let you know../Rob
:cool:

So Franco my old mate, what happened on the classic beast???

Thanks Den for pointing this one out, I basically thought I would not bother looking as at 90K its pretty normal for the clutch to go!

KILOMETERS
 


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