Clutch disk DOT4 vs engine/gearbox oil
- Thread starter B-Maniak
- Start date
If it is NOT slipping?
Then not really It will eventually spin out/dry out
But if it is slipping? Yes ASAP because you will heat the other components and it becomes a whole package to change
Then not really It will eventually spin out/dry out
But if it is slipping? Yes ASAP because you will heat the other components and it becomes a whole package to change
It all depends how long the clutch was used while contaminated with Dot4 . If the clutch was slipping the friction plate would absorb the dot 4. So you can clean the surface and it appears all good, refit it but once it gets hot again the absorbed fluid can creep back out. So as I said, depends how long it was exposed to dot 4 and much has been absorbed.
Thank you for your answers. Well just bought the bike with a worn slave cylinder so I don't really know how long clutch disk was slipping.
I have read somewhere a guy who got results "cleaning" the disk with brake cleaner through the gap left by removing the starter motor.
I have read somewhere a guy who got results "cleaning" the disk with brake cleaner through the gap left by removing the starter motor.
TBH if it’s a used bike and you’re found to the trouble of opening it up to clean the clutch, it would make sense to replace it.
Give it a go, what have you got to lose. Remember to pull the clutch in, put it into gear and rotate the rear wheel while spraying onto the clutch.
You'll still have to replace the slave cylinder and most likely the gearbox input shaft seal, output end, which is a bastard to change if the gearbox is in situ.
My mate's 1150gs had slave go about 4000 miles ago. I could see dot fluid dripping in the clutch area when starter motor was removed. I replaced the slave cylinder and put it all back together. Initially there was some clutch slip giving it a handful in 5 or 6th gear but if ridden "sedately" was fine.
I tried the method outlined by Steptoe above spraying about half a can of brake/ clutch cleaner in as I rotated the the rear wheel , in gear with clutch pulled in. It has since been okay. Doesn't slip even under hard acceleration. So definitely worth a try.
I tried the method outlined by Steptoe above spraying about half a can of brake/ clutch cleaner in as I rotated the the rear wheel , in gear with clutch pulled in. It has since been okay. Doesn't slip even under hard acceleration. So definitely worth a try.
Are you talking about n°2?
Yes part two Its down in a cylindrical opening 3 or 4 cm diameter and 3 to 4cm deep
The seals "stick" and can be very difficult to remove
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