Clutch faulty?

[Runt]

40,000 miles on a 2000 bike and i think the clutch is on its way out as it now goes like this:-

Twist throttle fast
Revs go up
Noise goes up
Speed doesn't

So as I think its probably buggered whats the damage for a new clutch pack and is it hard to fit?
Oh and who does the best price?
(Moto-bins?)

Or I could just ride it a little more gently and plan my overtakes better to make it last longer................................nah!
Gonna need a new rear shock soon as well

Does Santa exist and does he deliver early?

 

[russ996duke]

40,000 miles on a 2000 bike and i think the clutch is on its way out as it now goes like this:-

Twist throttle fast
Revs go up
Noise goes up
Speed doesn't

So as I think its probably buggered whats the damage for a new clutch pack and is it hard to fit?
Oh and who does the best price?
(Moto-bins?)

Or I could just ride it a little more gently and plan my overtakes better to make it last longer................................nah!
Gonna need a new rear shock soon as well

Does Santa exist and does he deliver early?

better take a seat....clutch kit is not too expensive BUT labour costs will be, as it involves taking most of the rear of the bike off, or enough to swivel the rear sub frame up out of the way to drop gearbox off and so access clutch!!

Not what I would call an easy DIY job....unless you are a bike mechanic with all the kit/tools etc etc

find a nice "independant" to do it fo you....Steptoe, for example...and enjoy the ride there and the ride back!

 

[Runt]

Well I have a transit full of spanners/hammers so perhaps its time to go and buy a .......Haynes manual...............
And if its still looks scary then its and off to an independant with it.
Ah the joys of biking.

 

[Wanderer]

Don't bother with Haynes, Clymer are much better (IMO).

As for the job. All I can say is that it's not a quick job - at least it wasn't on my R90S and that should be simpler than an 1150GS. You'll need to budget for special tools too, or be able to borrow/get by somehow, such as an output flange puller (I assume 1150GS' need these too?) etc.

If you have the time and the inclination it's a great way to get to know your bike more.

 

[Steptoe]

Before breaking out any spanners, just check that the clutch fluid reservoir isn't overfull. It needs to be halfway.

 

[bb1]

Can an out of place hand guard stop the clutch lever from coming out fully on the 1150?

Happened to me with my 1200.

 

[Colban]

Can an out of place hand guard stop the clutch lever from coming out fully on the 1150?

Happened to me with my 1200.

Oh yes.Usually happens after a spill that knocks the nearside hand-guard.

Also,cut the cable tie on the paralever rubber bellows thing and have a sniff inside.If you smell burnt rubber it may be the drive shaft turning in its cush drive.

 

[(RIP) Jamie]

Fitting a new clutch? Piece o' pish

 

[ELIMINATOR]

5 minute job

 

[Runt]

Just read Jamie's thread
That seems simple enough, I just attack the bike with a grinder until the whole back end falls off and reattach with cable ties.
I'll just pop and check the fluid lvl while I think of it Steptoe


Lvls fine ...........bugger!

 

[Runt]

Well the bikes now in many bits around me shed and I have discovered a leak at the clutch cylinder. At least I guess its a leak as its supposed to be a dry clutch pack
Getting the Showa rear rebuilt at Revs racing whilst the old girls in bits so everything should be nice when it goes back together.

 

[Runt]

Cant find the edit button sorry.
Bloody oil smells like gear oil and not clutch fluid or mix of both so the problems just keep on mounting.
Anything else i should replace whilst its in bits, may as well do the lot now.

 

[russ996duke]

Cant find the edit button sorry.
Bloody oil smells like gear oil and not clutch fluid or mix of both so the problems just keep on mounting.
Anything else i should replace whilst its in bits, may as well do the lot now.

Gear box oil....so oil seals on that side of clutch...but check the clutch plate for wear whilst its all in bits....after 40k miles it might be on its way out...new clutch re furb kits about £250 from motorworks.....and then , of course, theres the engine side oil seals (number depends on model engine serial number IIRC)
might be 1, or it might be 2 (if its 2 take care because there should/must be a gap between them<<<the breather is on the upper part of the oil seal housing "tunnel", carefully positioned to be extremely difficult to see without grovelling about on the floor under 2 tonnes of badly supported bike >>> which allows engine breather system to work...unless you also like replacing the oil level sight glass by the side of the road )
have you noticed, these sort of jobs that spiral out of all proportion only happen in the summer when the weather is good enough to ride, never in winter when its easier to take being stuck in some garage for hours on end???

good luck with the bike, anyway !

 

[Runt]

Well as you say things are getting beyond funny, just went to remove the flywheel and the last owner has chewed up one of the damn bolt heads (so thats staying put) and it appears that the gear box oil seal at the clutch slave cylinder end may even have been put in the wrong way around as I can see the pressure side of the seal whilst its in situ.
Anyone got a photo of the seal correctly fitted so's i know which way to fit the new one for certain.

 

[Runt]

Sorry to bump this guys but I cant find any pics or info on which way the seal in the gearbox at the clutch slave cylinder end is supposed to go in.
Yep dumb question I know as it should be a case of refit as the old one came out but i feel certain the old one was fitted the wrong way round