clutch fluid!! and oil query

agriff

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I pinched my clutch cable with an engine bar bolt the other day, clear fluid started leaking on the floor. I looked at how to replace the cable and it seems a hard job. Then I noticed the clutch still works and fluid hadn't gone down, seems like I only pinched the outer cable and it was water trapped between the 2. Now I assume that water is trapped still in the lower part of the cable, should I try to drain this?

Also I have a not been able to find much choice of oil locally. Last owner used belray 20/50 old thumper, bmw dealer recommends castrol 20/50, both at about £10 a litre. I can get belray 20/50 v twin oil for about £5 a litre. It doesn't have an API spec though. Any good?

cheers
Griff:thumb2
 
Oil has been done to death on this forum. I use wilko own brand 15w/40 'car' oil costs me £8.49 for a 5L tub is the correct api spec and I change it every 3,000 miles. (or thereabouts) £5 a litre sounds a bit pricey to me. :augie
 
Oil has been done to death on this forum. I use wilko own brand 15w/40 'car' oil costs me £8.49 for a 5L tub is the correct api spec and I change it every 3,000 miles. (or thereabouts) £5 a litre sounds a bit pricey to me. :augie

me to. handy to get and good enough quality :augie
 
Where do they stock Wilco oil (Wilkinsons?):augie

Think I'm a bit old school and would like to keep using 20/50.
And has anyone info on belray v twin 20/50?

or how to drain clutch cable/hose?
I better have another look to see if I can make a hole in the bottom.:gringo
 
are there any harley dealers near you, official or independent? they sell 20/50 mineral and synthetic. If it's good enough for a big hot running V twin it's good enough for a BMW twin. I'm not sure what they charge but it should be good quality stuff.
 
oil query.

if it's portland dorset that you live at, there is a wilkinson's store in weymouth- i was in there the other day.
 
Last owner used old thumper ...

Ah, 'tis a lovely drop of goodness!

ring_thump.jpg


:beerjug:

Greg
 
I pinched my clutch cable with an engine bar bolt the other day, clear fluid started leaking on the floor. I looked at how to replace the cable and it seems a hard job. Then I noticed the clutch still works and fluid hadn't gone down, seems like I only pinched the outer cable and it was water trapped between the 2. Now I assume that water is trapped still in the lower part of the cable, should I try to drain this?

No, you should probably change it.

For one thing, the sheath of the pipe you have pinched is now much weaker, so there's a pretty good chance that the inner tube inside the sheath will burst through the weakened wall, probably leaving you with no clutch all of a sudden.

Also, there shouldn't be any water in there anyway......something's wrong with it to start off with ;)

Changing it will only cost you £30 or so....why risk it ?
 
clutch fluid and oil query

if it's a clutch cable you pinched there should be no pipes or fluid involved:confused:
 
If you can find a unipart stockist/motorfactors near you they do a 20/50 mineral oil for about £10 for 5ltr.
 
or how to drain clutch cable/hose?
I better have another look to see if I can make a hole in the bottom.:gringo

Also, there shouldn't be any water in there anyway......something's wrong with it to start off with ;)

Changing it will only cost you £30 or so....why risk it ?

Water in the clutch outer hose is nothing new, it's a common problem, it's been posted many many times before -
the end of clutch hose at the rigid pipe also corrodes merrily away underneth the rubber outer hose which holds the water - Nice design.
Cut the rubber outer off at the end while your in the area. Pics below.

But there's a very simple solution to this problem - fit a stainless clutch hose, the same as fitted to the 1150 ADV





What it should look like

[/QUOTE
 
My clutch hose (I realized my error on my 2nd post) has a 2nd outer rubber which is the one that i pinched, in fact I cut this in half to drain the top part of and inspect the inner, the water was trapped between this and the main hose, it looked fine, I didn't feel it pinch just saw the leak.

Only £30 to change? According to my manual you have to take nearly all of the back of the bike apart to get at it. I was a bit surprised how inaccessible it is. That was why I was wondering if anyone else has had this and how to get at the bottom of the hose to make a drain hole or something, I was concerned it might be leading to corrosion.

I'll go ahead and use the v twin oil I think.:thumb2
 
=agriff;1883344]My clutch hose (I realized my error on my 2nd post) has a 2nd outer rubber which is the one that i pinched, in fact I cut this in half to drain the top part of and inspect the inner, the water was trapped between this and the main hose, it looked fine, I didn't feel it pinch just saw the leak.

Only £30 to change? According to my manual you have to take nearly all of the back of the bike apart to get at it. I was a bit surprised how inaccessible it is. That was why I was wondering if anyone else has had this and how to get at the bottom of the hose to make a drain hole or something, I was concerned it might be leading to corrosion.

read the post above "re" water in the hose - to change the hose you only have to to remove the rear wheel and shock, to enable you access to the slave cylinder.
 
Clutch

Are we all sure he's talking about a 1150?, 1100's have cables and also very difficult acess to clutch operating lever on gear box.
Dave gs ( ok I'll go back to sleep)
 
I was just going from the BMW Motorrad 1150 GS repair manual I downloaded. It says you need to remove seat, tank, caliper,wheel, suspension, electrics box, silencer and more, then pivot rear frame (whew!) to remove and install clutch line.
Nice to know it doesn't have to be that involved.
I hadn't planned on trying it mind, any jobs I do I think I'll check on here to see if there's an easier way.

should I be bothered about the water trapped :confused:
 
I just noticed i hadn't seen post above with the pics. (too busy writing I think)

Thats clearer now, thanks Steptoe.

cheers
Griff
 
Steptoe "sir"

steptoe "sir" .............. im about to change my clutch pipe (very badly corroded) did your suppliers ever get back to you about after market stainless pipes. id be interested in buying one, as long it would fit my rt that is.


Hman
 
steptoe "sir" .............. im about to change my clutch pipe (very badly corroded) did your suppliers ever get back to you about after market stainless pipes. id be interested in buying one, as long it would fit my rt that is.


Hman

Well remembered Sir.

Yes, i had a few made up, but they had trouble with the "bend" on such a small banjo and joining it with a different diameter pipe.

Out of the choice supplied I went with the small banjo without a bend, which meant the hose also needed to be longer. I also had proper banjo bolts made that could be tightend up in situ with a spanner instead of the banjos used by BMW that you can't tighten in situ ( if you ever have a leaky slave cylinder banjo bolt and need to tighten it you'd appreciate my thinking).

But like most things, i have an idea, then lose interest when it comes to fruition and all the packaging malarky. But the biggest problems are suppliers who let you down. So i'm always the one who gets moaned at, same problem with my brake discs at the moment, they give/promise me a delivery date/time and it's always fecking late.:rolleyes: And when they do arrive they've all been accounted for so it's all back to square one again.

Anyway, back to what we were talking about. Yes i have one of my stainless clutch lines, and so did a few others for testing. and they worked very well :D. But i never went ahead and had hundreds made. No doubt someone else will now nick the idea, along with a few other things i've done :rolleyes: cough cough, you know who you are.
 


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