Clutch fly wheel bolts problems

[the celt]

Sorry to hear the welder idea came to nought, you do need a good welding set, diy air cooled units will not do it. cant you hire one for a couiple of houres, if the bike is transportable (somehow) take it an engineering firm I'm sure a "drink" in the right quarter will do the trick. You often find people are interested in somthing different and will ben over backwards to help and will be cheaper than BMW.
Hope you get it sorted.
dave beer: Hopful, but still crash bar less) GS.

Hi Dave,
The welder we where using was just a home
one and kept blowing a fuse,
me bro's pro one is at his work, so might try
again in a few weeks.
thanks again
joe

 

[chas]

Couple of methods I use for broken bolts and stubborn studs first bolts I use a large drift and hammer to shock the bolt tends to spread the bolt head a bit then hammer an impact socket on if that doesn’t work I weld a large nut on to the bolt or stud the best way I find is with a mig welder its I bit easier with small bolts then very gingerly move the nut back and forward best of luck

 

[davegs]

Tight nuts.

Looked in the Clymer manual and they recommend an impact driver, so looks like this is acommon problem.
dave GS. Glad I'm not the sad git working on his bike at christmas, or even thinking about it !. Happy Christmas to all.
(just a xmas thought, don't ever try putting a bigger fuse than standard in the welder or you will have a instant camp fire!

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

heat usually works as described above - but if the bolt has been green loctited - bearing or stud fit - then you need a lot of heat for long enough to melt the loctite.

a propane blowtorch or an oxy torch does the job.

an impact driver can't undo properly applied loctite cos it only applies a shock to loosen rusted or very tight bolts.

the other tried and tested way is to centre punch the middle of the bolt and drill the head off - then mole grip the remaining stud - with heat if possible.

good luck and have fun

 

[Guzzler]

Every home wrench'n retard needs an Impact Driver.

I quit counting the number of times these things have saved my bacon.

You can get by with standard hex sockets (don't even think about the 12 point versions). But sometimes you need to get a true impact socket to get some things off.

You just make sure that you twist the head the right way so when you wail on it with a hammer it loosens (or tightens, depending on what your doing)!

When in doubt, soak the stuck nut or bolt with some penetrating oil and let it sit for a good while. Then go gonzo on it with the impact driver. Swing hard and swing often with a good mallet!

Oh, and you can wear out the spring inside. I've gone through 4 in my short life of 39 years.

And I agree with motomartin, if there is any chance that some loctite has been used to secure the bolt/nut. Heat it up to break it down. BUT... if there isn't any loctite, you want to heat up the surrounding material if it's a bolt (get it to expand, not the bolt). If it is a nut, you heat up the nut.