Clutch on 1150

  • Thread starter Thread starter eonisbkuk
  • Start date Start date

eonisbkuk

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i think my clutch might be on its way out as when i go to do an overtake sometimes it revs to 5k and moments later it bites not all the time any suggestions and if it is the clutch going any ideas on price for renewal

thanks in advance

eon
 
Mine has started to do the same Eon and I plan on replacing it over winter. Bike is on just over 63,000 miles now. I think that Motorworks do a full kit for around £200 and I will fit it myself. :)
 
forgot to add mine has done 40k but was standing for a couple of years by previous owner so wondered if that had anything to do with it

thanks

eon
 
forgot to add mine has done 40k but was standing for a couple of years by previous owner so wondered if that had anything to do with it

thanks

eon


Remove the starter motor cover and starter, a 30 min job max, see what it looks like as in oil ingress from a seal or what? Mine has 67,000 on original clutch and has stood around :rob
 
I just replaced the whole clutch, and slave cylinder on my 1150gs. £300 from Motorworks. Nothing desperately difficult abbout it, but there's far less awkward jobs to do on a gs! A fair bit has to come off to get at it.
 
sounds

very much like a new clutch will be required. If you are a competent spannerer it is possible to do the job yourself. There are some good threads on here giving easy to follow steps and useful pics. It is a bit daunting the first time but is not too difficult to do. DO NOT scrimp and only replace the friction plate or partial items. Those in the know reckon that unless you change the complete kit you will be doing the job again soon.

Motorworks do a full kit for just shy of £200, I would reckon at a dealer you will be lucky to escape without shelling out £600 plus.
 
DO NOT scrimp and only replace the friction plate or partial items. Those in the know reckon that unless you change the complete kit you will be doing the job again soon.


I would reckon at a dealer you will be lucky to escape without shelling out £600 plus.

Right both times I reckon.
 
If you do the job yourself, it's worth checking inside the drive shaft housing - if there are little bits of black rubber inside it could be the driveshaft

Replaced my clutch only to find that it still slipped - it was the driveshaft - shagged at 12,000 (yes 12)

Have fun
:guitarist
 
very much like a new clutch will be required. If you are a competent spannerer it is possible to do the job yourself. There are some good threads on here giving easy to follow steps and useful pics. It is a bit daunting the first time but is not too difficult to do. DO NOT scrimp and only replace the friction plate or partial items. Those in the know reckon that unless you change the complete kit you will be doing the job again soon.

Motorworks do a full kit for just shy of £200, I would reckon at a dealer you will be lucky to escape without shelling out £600 plus.

£850 actually
 


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