Clutch operating arm bearing

[John Roberts]

I've just realised that every time I've checked this bearing I found it to be all rusted up and, not surprisingly, partly seized. I don't use a pressure washer but I'm begining to wonder if the little sods start to rust immediately the bike is used in the wet- I don't remember seeing a seal on the bearing at all. Has anyone else noticed this or is it just mine?

 

[Kenny]

The rubber outer boot is the only 'seal' ( and that is an expensive replacement !! ). Grease up and remember to put the bearing back in the right way around

 

[John Roberts]

Ah, sorry Kenny, I meant the needle roller one that the arm pivots on. I'm a bit reluctant to tighten the nut on the pivot bolt too much (so as to reduce the gap for shit to get at it) in case I snap the supporting lugs on the gearbox cover, though the inner bearing sleeve might be of sufficient length to prevent that happening. Just got the prices from M Works for them, bearing is £7-odd and the inner sleeve is £12-ish! Strange. Anyway, needs must.

 

[PW Cymru]

Don't have an issue with mine on the RS, but I did pack a little grease around last time it was off and looking at the rear gearbox cover it appears to be self lubricating if you know what I mean .
If I remember your clutch lever was quite heavy. Maybe it's the pivot bearing causing it?

 

[John Roberts]

Don't have an issue with mine on the RS, but I did pack a little grease around last time it was off and looking at the rear gearbox cover it appears to be self lubricating if you know what I mean .
If I remember your clutch lever was quite heavy. Maybe it's the pivot bearing causing it?

I always pack it with grease, in fact every time I renew the bugger I pack it with grease, but even though there is a seal on the bearing cage, every time I take a look there is corrosion there. The clutch is heavy, certainly, and this pesky bearing certainly has a bearing on that (that was cute, wasn't it? ) but surprisingly it's still pretty heavy with a new bearing, changing the clutch cable doesn't improve things much either. Ah well, I suppose it must be me then, I must be a wimp.

 

[Kenny]

I bought a new clutch cable from moto***s and the bugger worked when on the bench but as soon as it was fitted ( i.e. with curves ) then it was heavy as hell !! They kindly replaced it and all was well with the world ( this is after I had the gearbox out to lube the splines etc etc trying to discover why it was so stiff !! ). So unhook your cable from the gearbox end and see if it runs freely with all the required bends in it. If that is all OK then maybe time to get the Optimol out and lube the gearbox imput shaft.

 

[Steptoe]

I've just realised that every time I've checked this bearing I found it to be all rusted up and, not surprisingly, partly seized. I don't use a pressure washer but I'm begining to wonder if the little sods start to rust immediately the bike is used in the wet- I don't remember seeing a seal on the bearing at all. Has anyone else noticed this or is it just mine?

What year is the bike bike ? two different types of arm and bearings depending on year.

 

[John Roberts]

What year is the bike bike ? two different types of arm and bearings depending on year.

1982 R100RS. The bearing has caged needle bearings in the housing with a seal at each end (I got that bit wrong in my OP) Length 15.8mm, o/d 18mm and which has a plain cylindrical hardened steel inner roller of 12mm diam running in it.

If it helps I could measure the arm as well. Cheers.