Clutch problem

X21ekx

X21ekx

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So here's my problem I went for a ride a last week and was over taking a car with a clutch less gear change up and with doing so the clutch started to slip when I gave it a handful it then slipped a couple of time after that but then no problems?..
A few days later I went out again done some 150 miles no problem
Then tonight whilst riding testing out my cat removal it happened again??? And quite a few time when accelerating hard
My bike is a 2006 with only 10k it's had a very easy life
I'd tried ride along at 25/30 in 6th gear and turning the throttle all the way to the stop it doesn't slip at all
I can't work it out ? Has anyone else had anything like this happen to them??
Cheers in advance
 
X21ekx said:
So here's my problem I went for a ride a last week and was over taking a car with a clutch less gear change up and with doing so the clutch started to slip when I gave it a handful it then slipped a couple of time after that but then no problems?..
A few days later I went out again done some 150 miles no problem
Then tonight whilst riding testing out my cat removal it happened again??? And quite a few time when accelerating hard
My bike is a 2006 with only 10k it's had a very easy life
I'd tried ride along at 25/30 in 6th gear and turning the throttle all the way to the stop it doesn't slip at all
I can't work it out ? Has anyone else had anything like this happen to them??
Cheers in advance
Click to expand...

Maybe you have a little oil on the clutch - the early 1200s used to let a little oil past the seal from the crank into the clutch housing.
 
Exactly the same symptoms, 2008 GSA. After a long time taking it steady plus a change of engine and gearbox oil mine has been fine. I was going to rip it apart and replace the clutch but it has now stopped slipping when ridden hard, so I can only assume it was a glazed friction plate or slight oil contamination that has now improved.
 
Pukmeister said:
Exactly the same symptoms, 2008 GSA. After a long time taking it steady plus a change of engine and gearbox oil mine has been fine. I was going to rip it apart and replace the clutch but it has now stopped slipping when ridden hard, so I can only assume it was a glazed friction plate or slight oil contamination that has now improved.
Click to expand...
Mine was only serviced 300miles ago with a full engine & gearbox oil change?
 
Have a look underneath - at the join between engine and gearbox. If there is *any* sign of oil seepage at that joint, you may have a problem.

On the brighter side, clutch slip on some earlier GS models can be due to the clutch lever fouling on the handguard - Worth a look.

On the not-so-bright side, my 2011 GSA developed the same symptoms at similar mileage. Dealer fitted a new clutch under warranty. Then, less than a year later, it started doing it again. Another new clutch fitted under warranty. Touch wood it's been fine since.

Oh - and you should test it by banging the throttle fully open at around 70mph in 5th or 6th gear. At 25/30mph in top the engine won't be producing maximum torque, so won't stress the clutch enough to generate slip.
 
Grab the vaseline and bendover, oil getting passed one or more of the seals, my 2005 was the same, didn't need all the clutch components, just the seals and friction plate IIRC.
Added in a new heated grip and a brake fluid change and got no change from £715.

Possible to diy but I really couldn't be arsed..
 
There's not too much fluid in the master cylinder is there?? The fluid level rises as the clutch wears.

If there's too much fluid, it will cause clutch slip.
 
Oh - and you should test it by banging the throttle fully open at around 70mph in 5th or 6th gear. At 25/30mph in top the engine won't be producing maximum torque, so won't stress the clutch enough to generate slip.[/QUOTE]

That's about bang on for when it happens tbh
I've looked at the hand guard it does touch it not by much but I'll take it off after I finish and hope an pray it's something so simple(if it is it's beers all round):lol:
 
My GS 2010 did exactly the same from about 50mph in 6th if you nailed the throttle it would slip otherwise it was fine. It slipped around 4-5k RPM but only in 5th or sixth gear if you cracked the throttle open. I sold it before i got a chance to do anything about it but im sure it was a "glazed" friction plate bike had done 20k.
 
If the problem is oil contamination then yes, it will get worse over time as oil seals do not usually heal themselves! When my (2011 TC) suffered the problems as mentioned above, the dealers could find nothing wrong with the original clutch (or the replacement unit which also started slipping). However, second time around they also replaced the slave cylinder as there was some doubt that its action was entirely smooth - Their theory being that sometimes it was sticking slightly towards the end of its travel. All I know for sure is that it hasn't done it since the second replacement was fitted, and that's about 7,000 miles ago. I have a preferred "test road" - a half-mile straight, uphill gradient section of the A5 - where it could reliably be made to slip.
 
Drive it had and work the clutch. If its a small amount of oil contamination that will burn it off. If its more serious the work will bring oil to the surface and aggravate the problem. So optimistically a good thrashing will cure it - or kill it. Literally.
 
Just ride round the problem until it gets to the point its need fixing might last another 10 years if you look after it
 
Like I said in post 4, mine was exactly the same yet now it's fine. Bizarre as you'd expect to make it slip when you wanted it to, but instead it's now behaving perfectly with no slipping.

At £400 in parts alone, I'd recommend riding around the problem for as long as you can and see if it settles down all by itself.
 
Classic oil on clutch symptoms.

Bought a bike a few years ago and sometimes it slipped, sometimes it did not, depending on overall engine temperature.
Eventually changed it after I had covered circa 12,000 miles. seal on gearbox leaking oil onto clutch.
If desperate, and you have a couple of hours to spare, though no money, there is a temporary cure.
Take off starter.
Get some resin from your local violin shop.
Powder it, and - you may have to loosen off clutch pressure plate, sprinkle powder onto driven plate.
If you can get the resin onto the plate, it will cure the problem for a period of time.
The clutch will be more of a switch than a clutch, though.
Myke
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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