Clutch replacement - how much?

[Badgerman]

Just back from a 600 mile round trip and the clutch has started slipping (2004 1150 GSA) - the bike has done 39,000 (only 1000 by me) so I guess it's probably due for a change.

Two questions:

1 - If I get someone to do the job for me, how much do you expect it would cost?

2 - If I do the job myself (think I can do it but have time limitations at the moment), can you suggest the parts to buy for the job and maybe anything else to look at while the gearbox / clutch is out?

Appreciate the help guys

Anybody fancy helping me out one weekend in the garage, I will provide free tea, cake, speckled hen and other beverages as requested.......(Cambridge area)

Jamie

 

[D6]

motorworks, complete clutch around 200 quid mark(i think), change the crank,clutch an gearbox seals whilst your in there, not a lot more money/hassle

 

[Colban]

39K miles is too soon for a clutch unless you have blown a seal,either engine or gearbox.
Couple of easy checks first....make sure your LH handguard isnt fouling the clutch lever and check the clutch master resevoir isn't overfilled.Drain some fluid if it is.
If you remove the starter motor,you may get some idea of any oil contamination.

 

[NeilDD]

Jamie,
Give Phil a ring at Cambridge M/Cycles (01223 360176 or 01223 560176) as one of his guys (Christian) is a fully trained BM tech.

He can firstly verify that your clutch has gone/going and as he deals with both Motoworks and Motobins will be able to get bits for you, and if you are able to do prep work, this will bring costs down.

I would offer to help, but I will be away for work, then on a long weekend away in Holland on my 50's classic

Neil

 

[Badgerman]

Thanks Neil - will give Phil a call on Monday.

Jamie

 

[mad moose]

give steptoe a call he has just replaced the clutch and gearbox seals on my boxer cup i think the gsa is not as much as you have less to take off my bill was £600.00 with a lone bike

 

[Steptoe]

Complete clutch unit change on a GS costs £475 all parts and labour, assuming nothing is seized while dismantling.

R1100S costs more due to rear subframe and rear frame sections,swingarm and rear end all needing to be seperated and removed

Do not replace the crank seals if they aren't leaking.

If the slipping clutch is caused by a gearbox oil leak it'll be the inputshaft seal, or the most common seal to leak is the other end of the input shaft, where the slave cylinder locates -this seal leaks and the gearbox oil migrates along the clutch pushrod tunnel onto the clutch.

 

[waterloo700]

Complete clutch unit change on a GS costs £475 all parts and labour, assuming nothing is seized while dismantling.

R1100S costs more due to rear subframe and rear frame sections,swingarm and rear end all needing to be seperated and removed

Do not replace the crank seals if they aren't leaking.

If the slipping clutch is caused by a gearbox oil leak it'll be the inputshaft seal, or the most common seal to leak is the other end of the input shaft, where the slave cylinder locates -this seal leaks and the gearbox oil migrates along the clutch pushrod tunnel onto the clutch.

That's a very good price and you know it will be done properly (can I have a discount for that Mr. S?)

The swingarm pivot bolts can be an absolute pig to remove but then you can remove the gearbox and swingarm in one piece.

 

[Badgerman]

Thanks Steptoe - have sent you a PM.

Is the price ok for a 2004 GSA with servo ABS, assuming more stuff to take off?

Thanks

Jamie

 

[Steptoe]

Thanks Steptoe - have sent you a PM.

Is the price ok for a 2004 GSA with servo ABS, assuming more stuff to take off?

Thanks

Jamie

Pm received, price is the same for servo or non servo.

Pm'ing you back

 

[k50jsw]

Replaced a clutch on a friends 1100 last weekend (we started the weekend before mind you ) - theres a lot of faffing around to get to the clutch but in the end wasn't so bad

definately two handed job if your doing it at home - we ended up putting the rear sub frame on and off several times which was fun, we took pictures and notes as we went but not enough so if your going to do one I suggest that even tho you may be following the manual like we did take loads of pictures and make lots of notes especially where all he pipes and wires run and in which order stuff needs to go back

also not sure if they are all like it but there was no connector block for the rear light unit, cabled directly from fuse box to lights in one big loom, so I cut it under the toolbox and fitted a multi pin connector for future ease

 

[ThreeDawg]

Isn't it possible just to undo the bottom bolts of the subframe and pivot it upwards, holding it in position with a strap around the headstock or bars? That would save cutting the loom maybe?

Three Dawg

 

[Steptoe]

Isn't it possible just to undo the bottom bolts of the subframe and pivot it upwards, holding it in position with a strap around the headstock or bars? That would save cutting the loom maybe?

Three Dawg

Thats the way to do it ,the subfame hinges upwards out of the way

I was amazed to read of cutting the wiring loom and completely removing the subframe

 

[Wrigsby1]

Did mine last year as the gearbox was needing a rebuild and the clutch bit was quite easy if you have a bit of common sense and also if you follow some of the great advice threads on this very site. The best pics are by Mr Steptoe himself sorting an 1150. That will save head scratching for those who don't know the subframe routine.

The advice on centering the cluch is A1 too. I did the rear crank oil seal as well as it was leaking but as said before, only really needs doing if it's leaking as I also bought the new stretch bolts for the flywheel and spent a good hour trying to get something that would fit on the oil seal. I ended up using the oil filter removal tool (Hazet??) as it was near perfect size.

My only PIA moment was not noticing the 2nd set of bolts securing the bottom of the subframe...

 

[k50jsw]

Thats the way to do it ,the subfame hinges upwards out of the way

I was amazed to read of cutting the wiring loom and completely removing the subframe

Noobies so we were following the Haynes manual...hind sight and all that

 

[hitmanh]

It's not a hard job to do at home, but it's quiet a long job (plan for a weekends worth of work). Lots of stuff to come off. Have a search here there are a few pics and tips from his holyness Steptoe on making the job much more straightforward. It's also handy to have a second pair of hands for a few bits though you can do the entire job solo (I did).

Some pointers:

Rear frame can be pivoted up and strapped to handle bars, ignore the Haynes manual on removing fuse box and everything strapped to the rear frame.
Leave rear wheel and swing arm attached to the gearbox and remove as one unit, use a car jack to support the weight and just wheel it off and back on.
Don't forget to adjust the clutch after insalling the new kit. It is possible to do without removing the swingarm and rear wheel, it's just a bit fiddly (those rachet spanners with the angle joint come in handy as does a mini ratchet and socket set).
While you're there, give everything a clean and a wipedown with a clothed with ACF 50 on it, grease stands, etc
Give your starter motor a clean/overhaul (lots of info on the forums here).
Make sure your throttle cables are correctly seated after putting it all back together.

Or just hand it over to Steptoe and let him do the hard work

Cheers

Matt