Here's a couple of helpful tips.
No need to dismantle the whole drive train ( the driveshaft splines do not need lubing, i've never ever seen splines worn on any "R" series bikes).
To center the clutch plate, insert the clutch pushrod, and then using a suitable sized allen key go around the pushrod to center the friction plate.
I have a selection of used input shafts that i use for centering plates.
I also use two dowels ( two long bolts with the heads cut off), inserted into the two middle gearbox mounting holes on each side of the engine, to align and slide the gearbox/finaldrive into place
Also add some copperslip/antisieze paste on the two locating dowels, as the gearbox can, and does, get stuck fast on these. So you or any one else who ever has to take it off again in the future will be eternally grateful
On an 1150, refit the gearbox without the pushrod in place, you can slide it through the gearbox afterwards.
On an 1100, fit the pushrod in place, and slide the gearbox onto it, rather than have the pushrod in the gearbox and try to line up the pushrod and input splines, because it is very easy to bend the pushrod or dislodge the diaphram spring center. ( the picture shown below is of an 1150, because thats what i had in yesterday, and just for the purpose of showing you what i mean
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If your doing the job single handed, as i do everytime, use a trolley jack to lift the gearbox/final drive, and slide the whole unit back in place. I did this one yesterday, and managed to take the pictures with one hand and slide the driveunit back with the other.
Also insert two rear wheel bolts into the final drive, and have the gearbox in gear, that way you can turn the bolts and the gearbox input shaft to help the splines line up as you slot it in.
