clutch reservoir empty

Benhur Malta

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Hi All,

systematically tackling all systems in my new to me 2010 TC. I popped the lid off the clutch reservoir today, and lo and behold it was practically empty with the rubber thingee fully extended downwards. the bike has 60,000km and has no service history.

Clutch however bites aggressively...there is nothing wrong with it, and i can get the rear tyres to protest when dumpling the clutch or engine braking. dealer selling me the bike did hint that the clutch might have been replaced recently...but we all know salespeople...

I read on the interweb that the reservoir fills up as the clutch ages and that therefore it should be left low, but mine is under the minimum level...

should I top it up? and if Vitamol is not available, can i use any other equivalents from Silkolene for example?

R.
 
Double check this but have read that the bmw blue fluid is supplied by Magura the master cylinder manufacturers and it is the stuff that they also supply to cycle shops for use in their hydraulic push bike brakes .

Again double check the info as the wrong fluid will bugger up the seals in the master and slave cylinders, the bmw clutch fluid is a mineral hydraulic oil and not a DOT type brake/clutch fluid
 
Nope,

no leaks that i can see - and have inspected the area previously...so i should have noticed

R.
 
My clutch fluid was falling. I replaced the slave cylinder as received wisdom was a leak from there was not always visible. That sorted it. Easy job although access a little difficult. Iirc a long wobble extension is needed to reach the bolts without loads of dismantling. I used some fluid for mountain bike brakes from my local car care shop. About a fiver. It’s been fine for about 3years now.
 
Or

Citroen LHM (Circa £5/Litre) is the same thing at a fraction of the price, or alternatively, more than you will ever use for the same price as a bike reservoir quantity.
 
The clutch resevour needs topping up.
Now, whatever mineral fluid you use you'll need to flush andbleed the system, as the different types of mineral fluids don't mix.

Even the different genuine BMW fluids needed bleeding if topping up with the later type.. i.e. The bmw fluid started off being a green colour, then they changed it to blue and then to red. If adding the later red to any of the earlier colours you had to flush the system to get rid of the older fluid otherwise you'd have a "spongy" clutch within a few weeks.
 
The clutch resevour needs topping up.
Now, whatever mineral fluid you use you'll need to flush andbleed the system, as the different types of mineral fluids don't mix.

Even the different genuine BMW fluids needed bleeding if topping up with the later type.. i.e. The bmw fluid started off being a green colour, then they changed it to blue and then to red. If adding the later red to any of the earlier colours you had to flush the system to get rid of the older fluid otherwise you'd have a "spongy" clutch within a few weeks.

Good advice as always Steptoe...

I managed to purchase a minute bottle of blue stuff from my local bmw stealer for 13.00eur and have topped it up. Will be bleeding over the weekend to ensure all is ok.

I assume it’s a normal bleeding approach ( like doing brakes)...no bmw tomfoolery involved?

R.



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When i did a fluid change i took the slave cylinder off to check it and make sure i got all of the old fluid out. I filled the system with new fluid and bled it, and bled it, and bled it until i had almost used the whole bottle of fluid and still had no pressure at the lever.

After faffing about for ages trying various things with a large syringe (Oh!! Matron) I took the slave cylinder off again and pushed the piston fully back and that seemed to dislodge the air in the pipes ( i think it came back up through the master cylinder ) i don't suppose it was best practice, but i had run out of ideas.

I just thought i'd share this with you in case you end up with the same problem.

If you're just flushing the new fluid through at the back of the old i don't think you'll have any problems as long as you keep the reservoir topped up. :thumb2
 
OK its official, I have a leak...

i have ordered the slave cylinder, which should arrive within a few days. but in the meantime would i be damaging anything if I added clutch fluid and rode the bike...no long mileages but errands around town...its a daily driver for me.

r.
 
OK its official, I have a leak...

i have ordered the slave cylinder, which should arrive within a few days. but in the meantime would i be damaging anything if I added clutch fluid and rode the bike...no long mileages but errands around town...its a daily driver for me.

r.

You haven’t said but I assume that the fact you need a new slave cylinder must mean it’s leaking. If so by topping up the reservoir and continuing to use the bike you risk contaminating your clutch. Which is a very very expensive chance to take.
 
You haven’t said but I assume that the fact you need a new slave cylinder must mean it’s leaking. If so by topping up the reservoir and continuing to use the bike you risk contaminating your clutch. Which is a very very expensive chance to take.

understood :)...the bike stays inside...

R.
 
Maybe pull the pushrod and replace the felt pad when you get it apart, there's a chance of it being contaminated with mineral clutch fluid if the slave is leaking internally.
 
Maybe pull the pushrod and replace the felt pad when you get it apart, there's a chance of it being contaminated with mineral clutch fluid if the slave is leaking internally.

ok so removed the wheel, shock and exhaust - and pulled of the slave cylinder - there was a mess behind it and the leak from the slave cylinder is pretty obvious

I pulled the long rod out and will be ordering a new felt to replace it just in case...

the strange thing which maybe be useful for others is that i must have ridden the bike for weeks with an empty master cylinder....i think that the rubber in the master creates an airtight seal which keeps some fluid in the system so that the clutch can function, then when you inspect the master you let air in, and you lose clutch function

anyhow, thanks Steptoe, the bike is off the road and waiting for parts....i owe you a beer if you are ever in malta:beerjug:
 
There’s absolutely no need to remove any of those parts to remove the slave cylinder :D


I have to admit, I ended up removing the rear shock for better access (2011 twin cam) I removed the slave cylinder without dismantling anything else but refitting it was more awkward and i just wasn't confident I would get it lined up properly without better access.

Probably just lack of experience (and general ham fistidness) :thumb2
 
I am the king of ham fisted , so it was not even an option for me....I just made sure I have a clear area to work....now to wait for the parts to arrive....bother....


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Hey
Is there any benefit to be had of removing the starter motor while the beast is off the road....anything to lube, service, clean etc. I remember servicing my 1150gs starter motor and it had made a hell of a difference ;)

R.




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Yes, a strip of the planetary gears and regrease is worth it, a good how-to on here somewhere if you do a search.
 
There’s absolutely no need to remove any of those parts to remove the slave cylinder :D
Just done mine this morning and no despite watching a video on YouTube with some American fella telling me to remove the wheel, shock and exhaust and ah ah’ing and um um’ing up unto the point I switched off I can confirm you only need to remove the exhaust flap valve servo motor then from start to finish was probably less than an hour, I suppose having the right tools does help.
 


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