Clutch slave change - minimum dismantle

[monkeyboy]

Any tips or tricks please? My clutch lever is engaging only at the very end of travel now and doesn't feel right. Changed the plate about 30k ago. No unusual smells or slipping. Bled the clutch today, fluid is clear and feels slightly better but I have a spare slave so I'd like to try that before taking the whole lot apart again.

Looks like removing the wheel, exhaust, shock I can get access but is there enough free play then to change over the connections?

Any advice gratefully received. Thanks.

 

[fatnfast]

Yes, there is enough room but it is fiddly. I found it best to put some slack into the clutch lever to slave line so you can refit the line to the slave and tighten it up correctly. You can either disconnect the banjo at the lever or drop the fork leg a little to give more slack.
The other line on the slave just goes to the bleed unit and again make sure you have plenty of slack here by snipping the tyraps holding it.
It takes a bit of twisting to get the unit in and out because of the ling gearbox mount bar that sits in front of it.
Dont forget to get 4 of the small crush washers and a new gasket for the slave.
Its also worthwhile checking the oil seal is not leaking at the back of the gearbox where the slave mounts.

 

[The Grey One]

Any tips or tricks please? My clutch lever is engaging only at the very end of travel now and doesn't feel right. Changed the plate about 30k ago. No unusual smells or slipping. Bled the clutch today, fluid is clear and feels slightly better but I have a spare slave so I'd like to try that before taking the whole lot apart again.

Looks like removing the wheel, exhaust, shock I can get access but is there enough free play then to change over the connections?

Any advice gratefully received. Thanks.

Next time fit a whole new clutch!

 

[monkeyboy]

Next time fit a whole new clutch!

Eh? So change the plate, the slave, the fittings, the lever, the reservoir, the lot. You must be joking! If it aint broke, it doesn't get fixed.

 

[monkeyboy]

Yes, there is enough room but it is fiddly. I found it best to put some slack into the clutch lever to slave line so you can refit the line to the slave and tighten it up correctly. You can either disconnect the banjo at the lever or drop the fork leg a little to give more slack.
The other line on the slave just goes to the bleed unit and again make sure you have plenty of slack here by snipping the tyraps holding it.
It takes a bit of twisting to get the unit in and out because of the ling gearbox mount bar that sits in front of it.
Dont forget to get 4 of the small crush washers and a new gasket for the slave.
Its also worthwhile checking the oil seal is not leaking at the back of the gearbox where the slave mounts.

The cross brace looks a pain in the proverbial for sure. Dropping the fork sounds like a plan though. The bleed unit is currently just flopping about like it's not wearing underwear and I've ditched the speed bleeder for a normal nipple so that's all good.

I will treat it to a new gasket too

Thanks - that's next Sunday afternoon sorted out then.

 

[The Grey One]

Eh? So change the plate, the slave, the fittings, the lever, the reservoir, the lot. You must be joking! If it aint broke, it doesn't get fixed.

No just the whole clutch assembly, replacing just the plate is poor practice as it's not just the plate that wears.

John

 

[gerarddwatts]

Certainly fiddly....I took off wheel and shock..no more. It was easier using some decent ball-end allen keys to get in. While you are at it it's worth changing the clutch line to a braided sort if it isn't already. Tighten the banjo onto the slave before you put it back in... but...if I can do it.....anyone can!!

 

[monkeyboy]

No just the whole clutch assembly, replacing just the plate is poor practice as it's not just the plate that wears.

John

I know it's not just the plate that wears but the other bits last a lot longer in my experience. I changed the plate on my 1100s about 100k ago and it's all still fine. I'm afraid I just can't always afford good practice

 

[monkeyboy]

Certainly fiddly....I took off wheel and shock..no more. It was easier using some decent ball-end allen keys to get in. While you are at it it's worth changing the clutch line to a braided sort if it isn't already. Tighten the banjo onto the slave before you put it back in... but...if I can do it.....anyone can!!

I'll take a look at the braided prices. I've got good ball head sockets so that will be fine hopefully too.

Ta.

 

[Steptoe]

I've posted plenty of times on how to change the slave cylinder in situ.

I'm not typing it all again.