Clutch slippage???? I think

Spike

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Hi guys
Need some help, I have a 2007 GSA and its done 39K, bought it last week and did 400 miles on the sunday, used it all week for work, short journies of about 4 miles each way.

Noticed the other day but took no notice but today I had to go to another job so was riding like a right pansy as it was raining, so riding along at say 3k revs and went to accelerate, the rev counter needle glided not shot up, glided to between 41/2 to 5K rev then the bike seemed to follow.

The easiest way to explain it, is like an automatic car, you go to pull away or just accelerate and revs rise and the car picks up speed, thats exactly what the bike does.

It pulls away fine, no problems there, I tried tonight to pull away in first with the front brake on and no slip at all in fact the back wheel started to spin, so thats fine. just a bit of smell like you would expect loading the clutch like that.

What I really want to know is is this common and how it is supposed to ride or do I have a problem???
I donot think the bike has traction control or any other forms of gismos on it.

Thanks

spike
 
Have a look at the engine / gearbox joint on the right hand side of the bike. Are there traces of oil?
 
Just check that the handguard hasnt been knocked up or down and is stopping the lever from returning out its full travel.
I just had the same issue on my gs,till a very helpfull mechanic:thumb2 at my local dealership pointed it out in 30 seconds :blast.
 
there is a plastic inspection cover top of the bell housing but its tank off to get at it
 
If you're sure that there's no trace of oil seepage on the engine / gearbox joint then maybe it's had a hard life and the clutch is close to the limits of wear. Either way it's a case of splitting the front of the bike from the rear to separate the gearbox from the engine to get at the clutch.
 
Travel at 20 mph and then stick it 5th or 6th and then accelerate you will soon know wether it is slipping.You wont go anywhere.
 
If you're sure that there's no trace of oil seepage on the engine / gearbox joint then maybe it's had a hard life and the clutch is close to the limits of wear. Either way it's a case of splitting the front of the bike from the rear to separate the gearbox from the engine to get at the clutch.

Big job then???

Just put the bike in garage and noticed a sort of burning rubber smell from the front end coming up from between the handle bars. I know there is a pully there with a belt on it, but why that would give a sort of burning smell I have no idea???

spike
 
Big job then???

'Fraid so.....:comfort

Just put the bike in garage and noticed a sort of burning rubber smell from the front end coming up from between the handle bars. I know there is a pully there with a belt on it, but why that would give a sort of burning smell I have no idea???

Diagnosis via the Internet is never easy. However, in my experience, that kind of stink is usually down to the rear crankshaft oilseal having failed and oil getting onto the clutch. However, in that case, you'd expect there to be traces of oil on the engine / gearbox joint.....:nenau
 
Ok just to clarify I am looking at the right thing here as these engines are new to me(used to jap sprts bikes) I am looking for oil between the smoth bit and the bit with air furrels if that is the right word, this bit here

clutch.jpg


spike
 
That's the right place but I haven't a clue what you mean by "furrel"...:confused:
 
Just been out to the garage again and deffinatly no oil seepage from that area, its as clean as a whistle as they say.

spike
 
Remove the clutch fluid reservoir cover (2 clips to press) and inspect the fluid level. You will probably find the level is full. If so, remove a little fluid with a syringe to create a space in the reservoir for expansion.

When the clutch slave cylinder gets hot, the fluid expands and if it has nowhere to go due to a full reservoir, clutch slip is the result.
 
Remove the clutch fluid reservoir cover (2 clips to press) and inspect the fluid level. You will probably find the level is full. If so, remove a little fluid with a syringe to create a space in the reservoir for expansion.

When the clutch slave cylinder gets hot, the fluid expands and if it has nowhere to go due to a full reservoir, clutch slip is the result.

Well I checked it and yes you where right it was very full, Once the black rubber was inserted it would have made it full to the brim. I took a little out and replaced the rubber and the top.
I will not know if this will work till tomorrow now.
It does say in the owners manual that wear to the clutch WILL cause the level to rise, so if my clutch is wearing out then that would explain that reservoir being full.

Thanks

spike
 
Spike, it is quite normal, my last 2004 GS had clutch slip twice due to this, and my current GSA clutch slipped when 'pressing on' last Sunday morning so I need to practice what I preach and get the syringe out myself and lower my clutch fluid level too.

I doubt your clutch is wearing out so don't panic, even a tiny bit of wear on the friction plate results in a rise in fluid level.

Let me know if it is fixed, I'm pretty sure it will be now that you have dropped the level.

Its seems typical that these bikes get clutch slip once the bike has warmed up when used at larger throttle openings during 4th/5th gear acceleration, yet ripping the throttle open from slow speed doesn't make the clutch slip.

Obviously if the clutch slips often and at lower RPM it isn't the reservoir, it's the problem of oil on the clutch plates.
 
Ok went to work on the bike today as normal and well its still doing it.
Funny thing is though I can pull away fine even on an incline, It does not start to slip till I am approaching 4k revs.

But accelerating away it will not do it either, its more like going along at say 30mph in 4th and wanting to accelerate a little it starts to slip.
Ah well still waiting for the haynes manual to come through then I will start to strip the bike down.

Is there any special tools I will need to do the job, I have a vast tool kit as I do all my own repairs servicing where possible, but specialist tools I do not have.

Thanks again for all the replys

spike
 


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