Having problems re-fitting my gearbox after a refurb by Bob / voyager. Anyoe able to lend a hand?
Clutching at straws
- Thread starter Posh Pete
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freeloader
Registered user
Is it just muscle power you need, or something involving airhead knowledge?
I've got the former but not the latter, might be able to help this Thursday at some point. Need to double check with the management though...
I've got the former but not the latter, might be able to help this Thursday at some point. Need to double check with the management though...
Long Studs
Not local enough to help quickly really, but just as a thought, I managed to refit my gearbox to my 1150GS on my own ok - but I used two long plain studs which you screw into the engine and this allows you to lift the gearbox up on to the studs then slide it forward into place with a wiggle and a shove etc while the weight of the box is supported by the studs.
I'm sure I've still got the studs/pins if there any help?
Also, have you done a clutch centre alignment, using a suitable diameter socket or similar?
Cheers....................Grizzly
Not local enough to help quickly really, but just as a thought, I managed to refit my gearbox to my 1150GS on my own ok - but I used two long plain studs which you screw into the engine and this allows you to lift the gearbox up on to the studs then slide it forward into place with a wiggle and a shove etc while the weight of the box is supported by the studs.
I'm sure I've still got the studs/pins if there any help?
Also, have you done a clutch centre alignment, using a suitable diameter socket or similar?
Cheers....................Grizzly
Not local enough to help quickly really, but just as a thought, I managed to refit my gearbox to my 1150GS on my own ok - but I used two long plain studs which you screw into the engine and this allows you to lift the gearbox up on to the studs then slide it forward into place with a wiggle and a shove etc while the weight of the box is supported by the studs.
I'm sure I've still got the studs/pins if there any help?
Also, have you done a clutch centre alignment, using a suitable diameter socket or similar?
Cheers....................Grizzly
Ta. Clutch is centred and have studs in place. The problem is just getting the splines on the input shaft to engage with the clutch cover. Have had the box on and off a couple of times and there's nowt impeding it. I am reluctant to use BF and I but there's obviously something I am missing here and maybe that's it. Just wondered if anyone had done the job and could lend a hand. It's an oil head btw.
Thanks for the offer Davy. May get back to you yet!
freeloader
Registered user
Just give me a shout.
However, my oilhead knowledge is just as limited as my airhead knowledge!
Have you put a new clutch plate in? A long time ago I replaced a clutch in a mate's car, think it was a Triumph Dolly, after fitting the new plate I could not get the output shaft in the bell housing to engage in the centre of the clutch plate splines, I sweated and swore and battled with it for fecking ages - bear in mind I was lay on my back under the car on ramps in his home garage. I eventually took the clutch plate back off and stood the bell housing on its end and tried to fit it over the output shaft and the fecker wouldn't go on as the splines on the place were out of tolerance and not big enough for the shaft to slide into them.
Changed the plate and the fecker went on first time.
Changed the plate and the fecker went on first time.
Took the friction plate out and dropped it on the gbox input shaft. No issues there.
The Grey One
Registered user
I have only fitted one GS clutch but over a thousand car ones. I always file a chamfer on the splines to aid fitting. With a small triangular file you only need a few strokes on each spline to help things line up. This will have no detrimental effects at all it simply helps the two sets of splines move in relation to each other so that they fit together. Turning the engine over slightly whilst engaging the box also helps, take the plugs out to make things easier.
John
John
Not getting hooked up on the cables underneath? Just saw a vid recently of Chris Harris, American who posts on YT. He made a point of emphasising this on his last gearbox video, last week I think. Worth a look maybe.
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Give me a shout if your still stuck. I am from the burgh so can't be far away from you.
Peter,
Following our phone conversation yesterday . .
Are you sure you've got the pushrod located in the thrust bearing properly ??
If you're in any doubt, remove the actuating lever, rubber boot + spring and thrust bearing and fit the pushrod after you've got the box attached.
Give me a call if I can help (though I've never had an oilhead gearbox out before).
Cheers.
Bob.
Following our phone conversation yesterday . .
Are you sure you've got the pushrod located in the thrust bearing properly ??
If you're in any doubt, remove the actuating lever, rubber boot + spring and thrust bearing and fit the pushrod after you've got the box attached.
Give me a call if I can help (though I've never had an oilhead gearbox out before).
Cheers.
Bob.
Think I have it sorted now folks ... http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?356358-Pulling-the-gearbox-1100RT&p=3755018#post3755018
Bob : I backed off the adjuster on the actuating arm and that may have helped. We'll see if the clutch operates OK once I get the box properly installed.
Bob : I backed off the adjuster on the actuating arm and that may have helped. We'll see if the clutch operates OK once I get the box properly installed.
A'body kens ye need an exit visa tae get oot ae Kirkcaldy Den!
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