Comfy old boots bike service resto thread

[Comfy Old Boots]

Hi folks,

Collecting parts to give the r1200 gs 2007 a bit of a facelift and full service.

Had my first off a few months ago and as you can see the crash bars have taken a bit of a beating. They were on the bike when I bought it and I'm just wondering if any of you could help me identify them? With a view to me replacing the bent side off eBay or the like... I think they are Wunderlich but not sure. Any help or links to the same crash bars would be much appreciated.

EDIT.

I've changed the title of the tread because I will just end up littering the forum with multiple posts about various things. Hoping to get cracking on all this early next week. Full service, lots of rubber bits need replacing and everything needs a really good clean. Hoping to install some new spot lights as well. Thanks

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

They seem quite modular. They attach to the bash plate and also have a rectangular cross brace piece that connects the sides together. I can't seem to find anything similar.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Looking more closely, these look goosed. I'm correct in saying this is a non standard bash plate? Looks like they are all one big unit?

EDIT, with this in mind, can you recomend good value set of lower crash bars? I've come up with the following so far:

Crash bars for BMW R 1200 GS (2004-2012) - Bunker black

Lower, black crash bars type Bunker for BMW R 1200 GS, manufactured between 2004-2012.

heedshop.eu

but maybe a known brand might be better?

https://www.motorworks.co.uk/engine-crash-bar-set-aca62100-1.html

 

[Steptoe]

Here’s the full size image to make it easier/simpler to see the detail without having to feck around

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Thanks Neil. I’ve decided to just buy some new bars. Considering the age and mileage of the bike - 106,500 miles - I’m going with the Held lower bars at €160.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

A few more pix of other jobs that need attention. Front final drive gaitor and ball joint gaitor. Fork seal dust covers need replacing - forks not leaking, can I just replace the seals?
Handguards need attention :

Then there is the plethora of bolts and fasteners that have rusted. I’ll be replacing those with stainless. There is a mirror that is completely rusted, I’ll give that some love too.

There are old spot lights on the bike that never worked properly. Going to remove those and replace with something that does!

I’ve bought some of this as well. It gets great reviews and I’m hoping it’ll smarten up my faded plastics. It suggests it’ll last up to two years. Unlike normal back to black. https://gtechniq.ie/products/c4-permanent-trim-restorer?variant=43115430084853.

Frame has various bits of rust. Is hamnerite smooth still the paint of choice?

The rear shock could do with regassing and a service.

The seat is starting to crack and could probably do with some new foam.

New tyres will have to go on too.

Best bit? I’ve all next week to do it and the bike is in my back garden near my shed and all my tools. Been waiting a LONG time to be at this point. Really looking forward to it. Today I’m heading out to make space in the shed for all the parts that will come off. I’ll remove those engine bars too.

 

[waggy]

Hi,

I would recommend buying the bits from a main dealer, I used a well known company and ended up replacing the bits within 6 months.

The ball joint on the telelever is a real pain to remove due to the torque used. It’s best to try and get it loosened while on the bike and then removed at home, I took mine to a chap with a vice and an air gun and compressor, but I do know of others that this did not work for

A couple of other bits that might be worth replacing are the parts that the fork stanchons fit into at the top.

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Slipperyeel]

I don't know the name of your crash bars, I'm sure someone in here will know. Looks like they did their job

I'd suggest not being in a blinding rush to get stainless bolts, not every location. If you do, then just make absolutely sure you use some anti corrosion paste on the threads (there are several, duralac is one, if it's a bolt accessed for servicing, then you'll probably get away with copper grease since it's used relatively frequently). I'd advise NOT changing the caliper bolts, just carefully scratch brush those, then paint on something like ACF50 on them. Caliper mounting bolts I suggest OEM.

The boot/gator for the ball joints are replaceable. Unless it's clearly corroding/not smooth, just get a new one and fill with grease. No need to remove it from the yoke only to lift the telelever clear.

Depending on where you are, it's great weather to be working on it!