Comfy old boots bike service resto thread

Comfy Old Boots

Comfy Old Boots

Well-known member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Apr 9, 2007
Messages
12,812
Reaction score
1,928
Location
Dublin
Hi folks,

Collecting parts to give the r1200 gs 2007 a bit of a facelift and full service.

Had my first off a few months ago and as you can see the crash bars have taken a bit of a beating. They were on the bike when I bought it and I'm just wondering if any of you could help me identify them? With a view to me replacing the bent side off eBay or the like... I think they are Wunderlich but not sure. Any help or links to the same crash bars would be much appreciated.

EDIT.

I've changed the title of the tread because I will just end up littering the forum with multiple posts about various things. Hoping to get cracking on all this early next week. Full service, lots of rubber bits need replacing and everything needs a really good clean. Hoping to install some new spot lights as well. Thanks
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6425.JPG
    IMG_6425.JPG
    594.6 KB · Views: 111
  • IMG_6426.JPG
    IMG_6426.JPG
    468.9 KB · Views: 95
  • IMG_6429.JPG
    IMG_6429.JPG
    735.4 KB · Views: 84
  • IMG_6430.JPG
    IMG_6430.JPG
    464.5 KB · Views: 83
Last edited:
They seem quite modular. They attach to the bash plate and also have a rectangular cross brace piece that connects the sides together. I can't seem to find anything similar.
 
Looking more closely, these look goosed. I'm correct in saying this is a non standard bash plate? Looks like they are all one big unit?

EDIT, with this in mind, can you recomend good value set of lower crash bars? I've come up with the following so far:

heedshop.eu

Crash bars for BMW R 1200 GS (2004-2012) - Bunker black

Lower, black crash bars type Bunker for BMW R 1200 GS, manufactured between 2004-2012.
heedshop.eu heedshop.eu

but maybe a known brand might be better?

 

Attachments

  • IMG_6432.JPG
    IMG_6432.JPG
    327.4 KB · Views: 76
  • IMG_6433.JPG
    IMG_6433.JPG
    295.1 KB · Views: 70
  • IMG_6434.JPG
    IMG_6434.JPG
    387.4 KB · Views: 71
Last edited:
Here’s the full size image to make it easier/simpler to see the detail without having to feck around

IMG_4598.jpgIMG_4599.jpgIMG_4600.jpgIMG_4601.jpgIMG_4602.jpgIMG_4603.jpgIMG_4604.jpg
 
Thanks Neil. I’ve decided to just buy some new bars. Considering the age and mileage of the bike - 106,500 miles - I’m going with the Held lower bars at €160.
 
A few more pix of other jobs that need attention. Front final drive gaitor and ball joint gaitor. Fork seal dust covers need replacing - forks not leaking, can I just replace the seals?
Handguards need attention :

Then there is the plethora of bolts and fasteners that have rusted. I’ll be replacing those with stainless. There is a mirror that is completely rusted, I’ll give that some love too.

There are old spot lights on the bike that never worked properly. Going to remove those and replace with something that does!

I’ve bought some of this as well. It gets great reviews and I’m hoping it’ll smarten up my faded plastics. It suggests it’ll last up to two years. Unlike normal back to black. https://gtechniq.ie/products/c4-permanent-trim-restorer?variant=43115430084853.

Frame has various bits of rust. Is hamnerite smooth still the paint of choice?

The rear shock could do with regassing and a service.

The seat is starting to crack and could probably do with some new foam.

New tyres will have to go on too.

Best bit? I’ve all next week to do it and the bike is in my back garden near my shed and all my tools. Been waiting a LONG time to be at this point. Really looking forward to it. Today I’m heading out to make space in the shed for all the parts that will come off. I’ll remove those engine bars too.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6388.jpeg
    IMG_6388.jpeg
    237.1 KB · Views: 52
  • IMG_6406.jpeg
    IMG_6406.jpeg
    248.2 KB · Views: 52
  • IMG_6385.jpeg
    IMG_6385.jpeg
    229.8 KB · Views: 55
Hi,

I would recommend buying the bits from a main dealer, I used a well known company and ended up replacing the bits within 6 months.

The ball joint on the telelever is a real pain to remove due to the torque used. It’s best to try and get it loosened while on the bike and then removed at home, I took mine to a chap with a vice and an air gun and compressor, but I do know of others that this did not work for

A couple of other bits that might be worth replacing are the parts that the fork stanchons fit into at the top.

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I don't know the name of your crash bars, I'm sure someone in here will know. Looks like they did their job 👍🏻

I'd suggest not being in a blinding rush to get stainless bolts, not every location. If you do, then just make absolutely sure you use some anti corrosion paste on the threads (there are several, duralac is one, if it's a bolt accessed for servicing, then you'll probably get away with copper grease since it's used relatively frequently). I'd advise NOT changing the caliper bolts, just carefully scratch brush those, then paint on something like ACF50 on them. Caliper mounting bolts I suggest OEM.

The boot/gator for the ball joints are replaceable. Unless it's clearly corroding/not smooth, just get a new one and fill with grease. No need to remove it from the yoke only to lift the telelever clear.

Depending on where you are, it's great weather to be working on it!
 
Thanks lads. Chat later but super day out there! The shed is tidy!

Going to remove stuff today and have really good look around and take some decent photos so we al know exactly what I am looking at. Have a great day!
 
hi, back with a photo dump. Now, I apologize in advance but there are a lot of photos and I'll be back later to comment on them and ask questions but the tubberware is off! Not sure I like everything I've found to be honest. anyway, Paul, sorry if this makes your server blow up lol\IMG_6436.JPGIMG_6437.JPGIMG_6438.JPGIMG_6439.JPGIMG_6440.JPGIMG_6445.JPGIMG_6448.JPG
 
Last edited:
moreIMG_6451.JPGIMG_6452.JPGIMG_6452.JPGIMG_6453.JPGIMG_6454.JPGIMG_6457.JPGIMG_6458.JPGIMG_6460.JPGIMG_6461.JPGIMG_6462.JPGIMG_6463.JPGIMG_6464.JPGIMG_6465.JPGIMG_6466.JPGIMG_6466.JPGIMG_6465.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6459.JPG
    IMG_6459.JPG
    434.3 KB · Views: 36
Last edited:
As you can see, a bit to do. Concerned about the bash plate. there is still rubber attached. No idea what's going on.

Left rocker cover seems to be leaking. I've gaskets on order but still, seems very messy.

Managed to get the screen etc off. Everything is in the shed and until I get the service items next week, think I'll concentrate on cleaning all the bits and doing a bit of rattle can refresh!

The bike is very very very dirty, tips on what not to do would be appreciated. Also, as I mentioned the spots were never great and I disconnected them years ago. Really not prepared for what I found in there. I will need help with that please. So while the credit card still works, I'd love a few suggestions for replacing the spots and a few ideas on how to sort out that rats nest because I haven't a rashers what is going on in there.

Is that a standard bash plate?

How do I get the tank off? I had an 850 tank off, an 1150 and 1150 adventure tank off but this is a different animal.

I evicted not one, not two but three spiders!

Do you like my shed?!

also, the rubber grommets that hold the fuel cap on top of the tank, they supposed to be this orientation? I've stuffed a plastic bag in to keep the fumes down!

Thanks for reading
 
and sorry, I can't seem to do a Steptoe and have them all full size. If you explain it to me I'll do better!!!
 
 
Davey B said:
I'd strongly advise getting hold of a Haynes Manual for this endeavour...may save some broken clips/rpunded bolts etc etc
Click to expand...
Like this one? Thanks! the photos in it are really really rubbish quality! Thanks Younger who donated it when he went Honda!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6488.jpeg
    IMG_6488.jpeg
    351.6 KB · Views: 51
If anyone has time, please explain what these all are? No 5 is the relay that I removed when the spots failed. I expect number 2 should be in number one? What attaches to number 4?

How do I clean this? Thanks

rat nest lables.jpegrat nest.jpg
 
waggy said:
Hi,

I would recommend buying the bits from a main dealer, I used a well known company and ended up replacing the bits within 6 months.

The ball joint on the telelever is a real pain to remove due to the torque used. It’s best to try and get it loosened while on the bike and then removed at home, I took mine to a chap with a vice and an air gun and compressor, but I do know of others that this did not work for

A couple of other bits that might be worth replacing are the parts that the fork stanchons fit into at the top.

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I managed to get one off an 1150 adv. Heat and cursing and a breaker bar...
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Grizz
BSA Bantam D7 - FREE BIKE - Resto Thread
2 3 4
Replies
75
Views
27,052
Timolgra
Timolgra


Back
Top Bottom