Connecting an Autocom to 1200GS

Firebird

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Would I be right in thinking I can use a couple of these Snap Lock Connectors (http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1073&criteria=Crimp Terminals&doy=14m7 ) to splice on to the cable that leads to the standard accessory socket?

I'm assuming the Autocom will then be switched (although it may stay on for a while after the ignition is turned off) and won't interfere with the CanBus system?

Have read a couple of the other threads on taking 12V but most of the solutions seemed to be plugged into the accessory socket rather than spliced into the loom.

:beerjug:
 
Dunno about the Autocom but the Starcom only draws power when the lead is connected to your helmet :thumb
 
The autocom draws power all the time unless it's powered by a battery (in which case only when the cable is plugged in).

The problem with wiring to an accessory socket is that the sockets don't always work. The computer shuts them down at random. Check to see if you have this problem by using another accessory (like a GPS) for a while. If not, then yes you can wire to the back of the socket.

Trip
 
my autocom is connected to the accessory socket and it works fine, no probs at all, only shuts down when bike ignition is off
 
Connecting to the back of the accessory socket will work perfectly, the autocom will remain live for about a miinute after the ignition is switched off.

Not a fan of the snap lock connectors, would recommend soldering a connection to the wires instead. :thumb
 
Wapping said:
Go to Autocom website or give them a call.

Spoke to them at the NEC show last year. My unit is so old nowadays that they no longer supply any of the parts. Their advice, surprise surprise, was to buy a new one.

All I want is to be able to mute my music so I can hear what sat nav is saying and I should be able to do that with the unit I've got.

Thanks for advice so far.
 
I'm having a problem with the Autocom and other accessories on my R1200GS ever since I had the (unnecessary) battery drain software mod. I have the typical "start OK then turn off for 3 minutes, on for 1 minute" cyclic problem.

My Autocom is wired off the back of the accessory socket, as is the autoswitch supply for controlling my Hella MicroDE lights. I spoke to SPC who advised me to re-run this off the blue and grey wire up near the headstock, which is a switched live but isn't messed about by the canbus accessory socket controller. I'm going to give it a go this week and see if things improve.
 
Puk,

I had the same problem and implemented the solution you mention. It works great but you need to actually draw the power from the battery direct and use the parking light lead to trigger a relay with a fuse inline in the power cicruit.

Autocom do a relay/fuse unit for £25.

Trip
 
Pukmeister said:
I'm having a problem with the Autocom and other accessories on my R1200GS ever since I had the (unnecessary) battery drain software mod. I have the typical "start OK then turn off for 3 minutes, on for 1 minute" cyclic problem.
Is there any way of knowing if you've had the battery drain mod done? You say it's pointless, can't you just go back to the previous version of software?

The in-line relay/fuse sounds a bit complicated for an electrics numpty. Just piggybacking off the back of the accessory socket seems so much simpler.
 
If your Autocom is wired direct off the power plug,then if your bikes detects the voltage of the Autocom when the ignition is turned off,the plug will stay live and possibly drain your battery??,
It does on my 12 ADV,!.
I wired the A/com via a relay off the power plug and works perfectly!!.
I fitted a std BMW type power plug in place of the o/e plug and wired it (fused)direct to the battery,.
 
I bought a little box and two Phone right angle plug and socket sets from Maplin. I fitted the sockets to the box and wired both sides of the power feeds from the back of the Accessory socket (Both wires - note! Canbus switches the earth as well as the Live wires) to the phono plugs. My GPS power plugs into one and the Autocom into the other. I can do a diagram if anyone wants - it is pretty noddy.
GPS comes on when the ignition goes on and turns off a minute after ignition off - as does the Autocom. The whole lot - Autocom and wee box fits into the tool tray under the seat and the big rubber strap holds it all in place. The Autocomm audio leads are cable tied to the frame neatly and emerge by the seat on the left. We hop on plug in and go.
She still says "Cabin Crew, doors to Manual and Cross Check" whenever we set off.
 
Blue Spider said:
I bought a little box and two Phone right angle plug and socket sets from Maplin. I fitted the sockets to the box and wired both sides of the power feeds from the back of the Accessory socket (Both wires - note! Canbus switches the earth as well as the Live wires) to the phono plugs. My GPS power plugs into one and the Autocom into the other. I can do a diagram if anyone wants - it is pretty noddy.
GPS comes on when the ignition goes on and turns off a minute after ignition off - as does the Autocom. ....

Well my autocom and b2b radio are wired, solder spliced (don't use those didgy scotch-lock type connectors they cause too many intermittent open circuits), I wired into the the back of the aux socket (both +ve and earth) and like yours all worked fine untill the last software update introduced the intermittent power off bug that I'm told won't be fixed untill the end of August.

Seems a pretty crap service from BMW to me, I've lost count of the number of software upgrades that have been done, plus the recalls etc. which mean that I see far too much of the not so local BMW dealer. It certainly doesn't compare favourably with my Honda blackbird that has never been back for modifications, if this is BMW's idea of character someone should tell them it's beginning to look a really dodgy character ;)
 
Only had mine a couple of months - no software updates nor recalls yet - think I'd just ignore them as everything seems to be OK for the last 1800 miles :thumb . Still rattles like a fishwife mind you but - "They all do that sir!" :mmmm
 
I contacted Autocom recently asking the self same question, they answered that they don't recommend using the Auxilliary socket style connector. Well if you chaps have had no problems then I think I'l go down the same route myself. That is if the Caponord socket works!!
 
My autocom and GPS are both connected directly to the battery (fused of course :) ). And no problems at all.

RE: Snap lock connector....DON'T DO IT..... :nono, they are the devils electrical device :reaper , I have two crimped on ring terminals connected to my battery, obviously if the GPS is not connected, no battery drain and Autocom's only draw current (And very little at that) if they have a headset connected, so simple and no soldering or cutting. :thumb

Hope it helps :beerjug:
 
Hi, just wanted to share my experience on topic :

I first had my Autocom Active 7 soldered onto back of auxiliary socket, as recommended by Autocom (autocom recommends this because this way the electric supply is constant, whereas using a plug creates the risk of on/off behaviour as the plug could wobble).

This worked fine, as long as I didn't want to charge my battery via the socket. Charging the battery with the BMW charger via the socket is a whole different subject; suffice it to say that the charger sends signals to the electronics, so that the socket opens up after a specific interval.

The fixed Autocom interfered according to BMW with the charging cycle, so I unsoldered the Autocom and fitted a BMWsocket, so that I can plug/unplug it anytime I want. This worked fine.

Then I got the software bug whereby the socket goes on/off, as described above. I'm getting the bike fixed as soon as the 'debugging-update' is available where I live. In the mean time the socket is wired directly to the battery, and my Autocom works fine when plugged into the socket.

Cheers, GSband.
 


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