Corrosion on stick coil - 2003 1150GS Adv

[Ian J Hartley]

Just like mine looked a week ago which are now currently being replaced. Mines a twin spark too.

Hopefully not too dear

£80 per coil (daylight robbery)

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Leaving a bike parked for 12 months can cause all sorts of condensation related issues. This is probably just surface rust. Its also not been used wet so quite likely the coil internals are ok.
.

I tend to disagree. When mine failed it had only surface corrosion but when I dismantled it, the corrosion inside was much worse.

These coils are to my knowledge unique in that they use a 3 wire connector where as most of the other manufactures use a 2 wires. The third wire the earth is an important function of these coils as it earths the outer metal case (presumably for suppression) but it also has an affect on the HT spark. There is a diode in the head of the coil which connects one side of the HT coil to earth, the other end going to the spark plug.

They sit in a place which gets very hot and when it rains, any water that gets to them will quickly turn to steam.

 

[chad]

They sit in a place which gets very hot and when it rains, any water that gets to them will quickly turn to steam.

not if you are fording as some are here are happy doing

though mikes bike looks like its never seen even a light shower

 

[MikeO]

Leaving a bike parked for 12 months can cause all sorts of condensation related issues. This is probably just surface rust. Its also not been used wet so quite likely the coil internals are ok.

Check the resistances. You will need some longer than average prongs on your multimeter or very small insulated croc clips. If the readings are fine clean the coil(s) and use it.

Thanks for all the replies...

It looks worse than surface rust, or I wouldn't be concerned. The bike was stored indoors in a dealer's workshop/showroom, which was heated and dry.

I've only ridden the bike for just over 100 miles or so (two trips a few weeks apart) and my impression is that it isn't as smooth as my old (single spark) Adv, but I've yet to balance the throttle bodies on the new one (it's still being rebuilt with the auxilliary electrics in bits at the moment).

My old bike (which I owned from new) was well sorted and felt (& sounded) smoother than this. This one feels slightly lumpy at idle and at low revs, but picks up well and I've not noticed it hunting or surging. Unfortunately I don't have experience of a 'normal' twinspark to gauge it against or rather, I haven't experience of what a failing stick coil feels like - but this feels like a bike that's off tune. I suppose it could just as easily be the Lambda sensor...

@BT - Where should I check the resistance and what would a 'fine' reading look like?

Mike

 

[chad]

Mike i i feel you may be over thinking this , get the throttle bodies balanced first then give her a damn good run with fresh fuel etc .

then if it still don't feel right then investigate further , you had your last bike so long and did so much with it that this one will never feel the same.

it may take you a wee while to get used to it.

a problem i will face when i return to another 1150 in a few weeks.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Question to the real experts (Im just a home mechanic). Are there any other stick coils that will fit the R1200? Maybe a vehicle parts factors would be less costly source of replacements.

I and many others have looked extensively for alternatives, to no avail. We all wish that these were cheaper. Other motor bike and car stick coils are loads cheaper than these, but either are 2 pin and don't fit the whole or if they do are not long enough to reach the plug.

There is a guy over on the adventure website who replaced his with ford car stick coils, though he had to remote mount them as they would not fit inside the cylinder head. And while the system works well, it looks a bit messy IMHO.

I believe the reason for stick coils is not only size and fitment, but also because the HT length is shorter, the ability to control the spark is greater, and the engine management system can vary the spark pulse, to get better burn characteristics.

Oh hum! Sometimes I wish I had kept my old single spark GS.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Mike i i feel you may be over thinking this , get the throttle bodies balanced first then give her a damn good run with fresh fuel etc .

then if it still don't feel right then investigate further , you had your last bike so long and did so much with it that this one will never feel the same.

it may take you a wee while to get used to it.

a problem i will face when i return to another 1150 in a few weeks.

Couldn't agree more!

The worste that could happen if you have a failed stick coil is it catches fire. No problem

For piece of mind, take the lower plastic cylinder guards off (if you have them fitted or any other guards) so you can gain easy access to the lower secondary plugs.

Take the bike for a nice run to get it nice and warm. When you get back with the engine still running pull each of the lower secondary plug leads off one at a time. If the bike stops, then the stick coil on that side is duff. If the bike keeps running then your coils are OK. You've got them nice and hot on the run so any problems should be highlighted.

 

[Hairnet600]

motorworks do them for 36 quid inc vat

if they rust they can expand and split (theyre a pain to remove if this happens)

i have them on my kawasaki and theyre 110 quid from kwak

a little number hunting and denso ones were 32 quid each

 

[Ian J Hartley]

motorworks do them for 36 quid inc vat

if they rust they can expand and split (theyre a pain to remove if this happens)

i have them on my kawasaki and theyre 110 quid from kwak

a little number hunting and denso ones were 32 quid each

Not for the R1150GS twin spark. They are £80 each including postage.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Sorry Hairnet600 you are quite right. Used ones are £36 quid.

But I would be wary about fitting a used one of these.

 

[chad]

Couldn't agree more!

The worste that could happen if you have a failed stick coil is it catches fire. No problem

i think Mike has seen enough fire one GSA in flames is enough for one lifetime

 

[Ian J Hartley]

i think Mike has seen enough fire one GSA in flames is enough for one lifetime

I know, it was meant in jest black humour. Apologies if I have offended.

I know from personal experience that if you don't get to the bottom of a problem, your confidence gets a severe knock back, which is why I agreed with your earlier post.

 

[MikeO]

Replaced it with a new one - bike now runs smoothly with no lumpy tickover.

Thanks for all the input...

Mike

 

[tully]

Couldn't agree more!

The worste that could happen if you have a failed stick coil is it catches fire. No problem

For piece of mind, take the lower plastic cylinder guards off (if you have them fitted or any other guards) so you can gain easy access to the lower secondary plugs.

Take the bike for a nice run to get it nice and warm. When you get back with the engine still running pull each of the lower secondary plug leads off one at a time. If the bike stops, then the stick coil on that side is duff. If the bike keeps running then your coils are OK. You've got them nice and hot on the run so any problems should be highlighted.

Just a quick note to say thanks for this advice, i'm no bike mechanic/engineer but I am certainly improving my knowledge base due to really helpful comments like this, a new stick coil has solved the problem and the bike runs perfectly again. And yes, in this day and age £80 still seems a lot for these new!!! This was wroth the £12 subs alone
thanks, Tully

 

[Slipperyeel]

Glad you got it sorted Mike. It's made interesting reading since I'm also new to twin sparks.

Is there's any technique in removing the coils from the head? I've read you need to be careful but having never done it i can't see what would be difficult or what to be careful of? Is it just a case of pulling out in line with the tunnel it's in?

Thanks



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[Fanum]

How they look is no judge of how they perform.

I've had perfect looking coils fail, and ratty, corroded coils that continue to perform perfectly.

Same.

The seam is just that, a seam in the construction......

The ones I've had fail have always has a bit of a bulge under or around that seam.

If it ain't misbehavin', clean it, seal it if you want and get another one as backup....wrap it in greast brown paper and bubblewrap and keep it in your spares.

Coil packs don't go bang instantly IME.....they start a stuttering, then it progresses.

Keep it going but get a spare


EDIT....ferkin noob mistake, commenting before reading whole thread....pls ignore above

 

[tully]

Glad you got it sorted Mike. It's made interesting reading since I'm also new to twin sparks.

Is there's any technique in removing the coils from the head? I've read you need to be careful but having never done it i can't see what would be difficult or what to be careful of? Is it just a case of pulling out in line with the tunnel it's in?

Thanks

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the plug pullers don't always get enough purchase on the plugs

you can GENTLY use a flat blade screw driver by levering the end of the plug/coil out against the top lip of the tunnel, once it has come out a couple of cms you can just pull it out using your fingers, very easy to do just don't pull on the wires, once the plug/coil is out be careful to raise the securing lip on the top of the plug which clips over an eye on the stick coil. this is so it doesn't detatch in use

 

[Slipperyeel]

Thanks Tully. Nice explanation. I'll be taking a look at mine over the weekend!


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[Slipperyeel]

With the weather behaving I've taken the chance to take a look at the stick coils on my twin Spark only to discover i don't have them! Presumably it has a regular coil set up? Or am I missing something? I haven't bothered to take the tank of 2 to check (the lawns need mowing!).


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[Deleted account 220427001]

dw 40 or vasiline