Crown Wheel Bearing

[Pekkavee]

Section 5 of my Haynes manual covering final drive,page 5-20.
Quote "Further dismantling and set-up of the drive housing are beyond the scope of this manual".

You can find some more instructions in these manuals.
http://ursa.irk.ru/manual/


Pekka

 

[Smudge]

Thanks

Cheers everyone, parts arrived this am from motor works, gonna fit it tomorrow

Bit worried about this from steppers though:- "In fact you have to cool it to stop the bearing falling off the flange as you put it into the heated cover.
And as BHT says, heat the cover before inserting the flange and bearing to stop any side loading."

What cover is he refering to? I certainly didn't heat anything other than the bearing itself last time ... maybe thats why it didn't last too long !!!!

Anybody help me out with a suggestion please.

 

[Steptoe]

What cover is he refering to? :

The cover that the bearing and flange locate into. The cover that you undo to remove the drive flange. The cover that you look at when you remove the rear wheel thats held in place with the 8 bolts.

The bearing fits into this cover. So you heat it, drop the bearing and flange ( bearing inserted onto flange previously) into it. Then bolt it back together.

 

[Neil W]

The problem IS the FAG bearing that BMW supplies, they paid out on mine (as a GOODWILL gesture) after as much as admitting batches were not up to standard.
The specced bearing is a C3 which has the max amount of lateral movement for that type. I would try to find a similar spec SKF bearing that was not made in the far east and then boxed up by FAG and supplied to BMW.
The first on mine lasted 24,000, the replacement from BMW fitted by a BMW trained mechanic and running on fully synth oil lasted 890 miles and its replacement fittted in Austria by a BMW dealer and all shims checked and replaced lasted only 1000 miles.
In all cases the inner cages failed allowing the bearings to skate and ripping out the seal.

 

[Smudge]

The cover that the bearing and flange locate into. The cover that you undo to remove the drive flange. The cover that you look at when you remove the rear wheel thats held in place with the 8 bolts.

The bearing fits into this cover. So you heat it, drop the bearing and flange ( bearing inserted onto flange previously) into it. Then bolt it back together.

Cheers mate got it now

 

[Colban]

Cheers everyone, parts arrived this am from motor works, gonna fit it tomorrow

Bit worried about this from steppers though:- "In fact you have to cool it to stop the bearing falling off the flange as you put it into the heated cover.
And as BHT says, heat the cover before inserting the flange and bearing to stop any side loading."

What cover is he refering to? I certainly didn't heat anything other than the bearing itself last time ... maybe thats why it didn't last too long !!!!

Anybody help me out with a suggestion please.

I am only going on the experience i had changing the bearing the one time on my own bike.The old bearing had to be drawn off with a 3-legged puller at a local Ducati dealer,even though i had tried heating it and prising it with screwdrivers.It was a very tight fit.After i had prepared the shaft as per my previous post,the new bearing dropped straight on;and once it had cooled,it stayed there.Manufacturing tolerances a bit tight on mine i think.Still,it's done 9000 miles with no further problem.

 

[how far to]

Hello,Dont think the FAG was a C3,you would have too much free play until the FD had heated up?BMW Park Lane have confirmed the existence of a more recent part number but not available in our sceptred isle,Bracknell are on the case and I ll let you know the outcome as they are talking to the fatherland.Cheers

 

[Smudge]

All done now,, back on the road
Quite a simple job really, as long as you accept the advice from fellow tossers

Thanks for your help and advice gents and we will see how long this one lasts