Cutting out occasionally...

Wegby

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Hi all

Wonder if anyone else has encountered an issue I'm experiencing at tick-over and has any advice / info on a possible solution:

I have a 2012 twin cam GSA - it's pretty standard apart from the exhaust that's been de-catted.

The issue is only noticeable - some of the time - at a standstill (usually at traffic lights) on tick-over. Normally, everything's more or less ok, but sometimes when I open the throttle when pulling away in first gear, the engine makes a 'knock' which sounds (to me) as though it's pinking, and may then cut-out. It usually is more noticeable with a warm/hot engine, but I have also experienced signs of this within a couple of minutes of starting the bike when I'm stopped at lights and pulling away. Sometimes at tick-over, the engine feels slightly lumpy (warning it's likely to happen), but doesn't go the whole hog and cut out every time when opening the throttle when pulling away. And of course, it's never cut-out when it's been near the garage for regular servicing... :mad:

When the bike's rolling, it doesn't seem to happen at all and feels how I'd expect a 1200 GSA to be. I've had the bike for almost a couple of years; it's always done this (I've increased the mileage from 17k - 56k during this time).

It's not a HUGE issue, but is a bit annoying - especially if there's a queue of mopeds that come steaming past when the bike embarrasses itself (and me). This can be mitigated to a certain extent by holding the throttle slightly open, but then everyone else around me on a bike thinks I'm attempting to drag-race them away from the lights.

Thanks in advance for any (helpful) advice. :)
 
Assuming there's nothing actually wrong.......... the accelerator module from sol2be will cure that (it did on my single cam Hexhead)

Sent from a OnePlusX
 
Assuming there's nothing actually wrong.......... the accelerator module from sol2be will cure that (it did on my single cam Hexhead)

Sent from a OnePlusX

That will fix it temporarily but the bike will adjust and it will be back. I know this from experience (60,000 miles on GS TC, daily commute into central London). AF-XIED or Hilltop are the way to go for a permanent solution IMO.
 
I have 30,000kms with the accelerator module fitted. Maybe my ECU is learning impaired and was in a special class in school because the module still seems to be doing its thing. Lovely slow speed control and all the cutting out on downshifting is still absent.

Go figure!

Sent from a OnePlusX
 
I had an Accelerator Module it just made the bike run horribly rich. Not much point at the bottom end as that was not too weak anyway but not rich enough in the flat spots so IMO a waste of money.

My bike developed a stalling problem which very gradually got worse. It turned out to be a faulty primary coil but in my case the other coil was almost as bad so hard to diagnose. If you have the old black painted coils and they smell of hot insulation, they are on the way out though they might continue for a while. Sooner or later it will stall 1/2 way though a rush hour right turn and you'll drop it. At least that's what mine did to me in the middle of Birmingham.
 
I have a similar problem with my 2009 GS that is also de-catted (meaning the CAT has been removed from the OEM headers). On two occasions mine has also cutout when I have slowed from speed to a stop in motorway traffic.

I bought a set of headers off eBay to de-cat so I still have the the originals. I plan to put them black on to see if that fixes the 'hesitancy' at low revs.

I'm convinced the issue is de-cat related.

Mark


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have 30,000kms with the accelerator module fitted. Maybe my ECU is learning impaired and was in a special class in school because the module still seems to be doing its thing. Lovely slow speed control and all the cutting out on downshifting is still absent.

Go figure!

Sent from a OnePlusX

I'm with you Younger I have had the accelerator module on my bike for over 10,000 miles now (a TC) and it must also be a retarded feckwit because it still thinks it's -20c below ambient and works a treat. It might learn to meddle with mixtures but it still bases its maths on it being 20c colder than actual so then adds some more juice. I'm a believer ;) Oh feel free to disagree, its a free country, but don't forget to fuck off afterwards :aidan . And back to the thread............
 
They're only about 30 quid.........what harm could it do.

A resistor for £1 at Maplins will do the same job.

As said before the widget certainly worked on my bike but it made it run too rich in some speeds while still not being good enough in others so it came off again. Ive not missed it. Simplistically enriching the whole rev range was no help in my case. Back then I had decat headers with O2 sensors fitted.
 
This is an old, pointless argument about accelerator modules and, yes, I've had one too. It's all in the mind.
Roger can give you all the facts about how the ECU adjusts for it if you're interested.
Have you had the TB's synced lately?
Don't assume it has been done at the last service.
Sounds very much like my TC when they're starting to go out of tune. Unlikely to be the coils if it's a 2012 TC.
You can set them yourself with a pair of vacuum gauges and a couple of spanners.
 
Thanks all for your comments - even the naughty ones! :D

I've previously had the throttle position sensor changed - no difference, the TBs synced - seemed a little better, but that could have been my imagination, and the ECU has been reset.

Think the coils seem worthy of investigation (although I've noticed this from about 20k and it's now done 58) along with a visit to Hilltop.
 
Just a little suggestion to check that the vacuum points on the intakes have both go the small rubber "condom" on them. My bike had one missing when it was brand new !! and suffered the same symptoms as you are having. I just bought an injector blanking rubber and fitted that.....sorted.
 
Are you sure the engine knock you are getting is not something loose on the bike. I had an auxiliary light on my GSA swivel forward and the back of the light was rattling against the crash bar but only for a second when I cracked the throttle open and I was convinced it was a fueling issue. There have also been cases on the forum of loose crash bars being mistaken for engine knock. This obviously would not cause your bike to cut out, but worth checking out.
 
Ok I've had this fault....2012 GSA1200
Are you listening?
It is likely one of your O2 sensors is not working properly so the ecu starts to over fuel. Pull the O2 out (careful with it don't drop it or touch it or try to to clean it) and look for a sooty coating - that shows it as likely to be the faulty one. A mixture of greys is good. Replace it and the ecu will have to relearn over another tank of gas.
Or I'm wrong
 
My faulty coil really sooted up the O2 sensor. Unburnt fuel = unused oxygen causing ECU to add more fuel.


Sent somehow.
 


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