I have a 1995 1100 with 71k on the clock. I have noticed that there is a slight oil seep between the cylinder head and the cylinder barrell. In the future, should this become worse, I will have to replace the cylinder head gasket. I have found Sticky`s exellent thread on removal of the cylinder head and am very appreciative of it. My question is if the cylinder head is removed does this disturb the seal between the barrel and crankcase? Does the sealing compound remain in tack and therefore the barrell does not need to be removed as well? I look forward to your replies.
Cylinder head removal
- Thread starter Peter
- Start date
It's only a few more bolts I've just done 2 on an 1150
Order the 2 (per side) oil feed o rings and (2 per side) Gudgeon pin circlips
put the cylinder to TDC on that side before you remove the head
Remove the remaining bolts carefully slip the cylinder back and catch it just at the lowest edge of the ring area of the cylinder
Remove the circlips carefully slide out the gudgeon pin and CAREFULLY i.e. do not drop the conrod on the crankcase as you remove the barrel
Voila clean both faces replace 2 x oil feed o rings and use a good quality sealant NOT Hylomar or stag but a good RTV silicone put a nice clean bead around the base of the cylinder and refit with new circlips
If you run into probs with the Exhasut studs then drop Timpo of this parish a line he sorted out my friends Gareths for him
Order the 2 (per side) oil feed o rings and (2 per side) Gudgeon pin circlips
put the cylinder to TDC on that side before you remove the head
Remove the remaining bolts carefully slip the cylinder back and catch it just at the lowest edge of the ring area of the cylinder
Remove the circlips carefully slide out the gudgeon pin and CAREFULLY i.e. do not drop the conrod on the crankcase as you remove the barrel
Voila clean both faces replace 2 x oil feed o rings and use a good quality sealant NOT Hylomar or stag but a good RTV silicone put a nice clean bead around the base of the cylinder and refit with new circlips
If you run into probs with the Exhasut studs then drop Timpo of this parish a line he sorted out my friends Gareths for him
Try re tightening the cylinder head down. I've seen it done 3 or 4 times, and done it myself and it's worked every time.
One was a mates 1100RT and was pishing it out, and he re tightened it and it's been alright for the last 20,000 miles.
Worth a try
One was a mates 1100RT and was pishing it out, and he re tightened it and it's been alright for the last 20,000 miles.
Worth a try
Good advice from Vern and Jaythro but - to answer your question - the joint onto the crankcase will be fine.
Dick
Dick
Trullion
Registered user
Try re tightening the cylinder head down. I've seen it done 3 or 4 times, and done it myself and it's worked every time.
One was a mates 1100RT and was pishing it out, and he re tightened it and it's been alright for the last 20,000 miles.
Worth a try
+1. It's worth a go if it's only weeping. The only point I would make is that as it is a '95 it is possible that it still has the original head gaskets fitted. These were improved on later bikes because they were prone to leaking. I had to replace them on my 95-manufactured 1100RS for this reason - though in my case the leak was sufficient to splatter oil on the rear wheel. Since I fitted the latest type I've had no further problems.
Thanks for all your most helpful replies and so quick! To make the picture clearer I had the original head gaskets replaced under warrenty in 1995. This seep is very small at present, more a dark stain on about an inch long. Thank you for the concern over the exhaust nuts but I am ok. I am a bit sad as i am a little obsessive about maintance and I have removed the nuts, added high temp greased, and replaced the nuts every 6 months for the last 10 years in anticipation of cylinder head removal!! I use the bike all year round together with another one and we get too many months with salt here in Scotland. Again thanks for your help every one.
Trullion
Registered user
Not sad at all; since finding out it is an issue I've done the same annually when I do the valves. A wise man learns from the mistakes of others.......
(RIP) Mark H
Formerly known as Easyrider5258 (Mark)
TBH if it were mine and the symptom is as you say "seep is very small at present, more a dark stain on about an inch long" I would leave alone, and save the job until some other problem arises which means a head removal, it really sounds to insignificant to bother 
Slackening all the head bolts and re-torquing would probably cure it, reset valve clearances and end floats if you do it.
Slackening all the head bolts and re-torquing would probably cure it, reset valve clearances and end floats if you do it.
richierex
Registered user
Hi, I am about to remove both the cylinder heads and barrels in order to increase capacity from 850 to 1100 by fitting parts from an 1100 motor.
I was going to fit new rings but are these circlips, the ones on the pistons and is it adviseable to change these too. Any more advice would be welcome.
I intend to get around the ECU difference by fitting a tuning chip for an 1100 into my 850 ECU, anybody done this?
If it were me I would change them for the sake of a couple of pounds also the 2 little o rings per side that seal the oil feed to the head
Did you get 1100 barrels pistins and heads yet as I have all of those available to buy
Did you get 1100 barrels pistins and heads yet as I have all of those available to buy
Hi, I am about to remove both the cylinder heads and barrels in order to increase capacity from 850 to 1100 by fitting parts from an 1100 motor.
I was going to fit new rings but are these circlips, the ones on the pistons and is it adviseable to change these too. Any more advice would be welcome.
I intend to get around the ECU difference by fitting a tuning chip for an 1100 into my 850 ECU, anybody done this?
richierex
Registered user
Hi, thanks for the prompt reply, I have a full motor from an early R1100RS and I was going to put the barrels etc on my 850 and leave the rear axle ratio, Fit a thruxton style fairing and flatter bars for a retro/cafe look.
I believe the RS was the faster motor, not why I bought it, it was just there.
I have a set of 1150 pipes and underbox that I was going to fit but the headstuds are different. Is it possible to cut off the head clamps and reweld them, I was hoping to fit no exhaust, just the box under the gearbox to leave the rear wheel on view.
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