Only if you overdo it, I only use a cotton bud dipped in the end of tube for whole spline....
Never had a problem in 40 years +
damn, damn.
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Only if you overdo it, I only use a cotton bud dipped in the end of tube for whole spline....
Never had a problem in 40 years +
The way I understand it, is that you should use a very high melting point grease. Proff says Graphogen is the way to go and there dosen't seem to be any argument against it.
However it's expensive stuffso good reason not to go slopping it around like your buttering your toast. Just enough to cover the spines should be fine.
Val.
Use it like it's finest gold dust, tiny, tiny amount and it's ok for 6 years plus... well it has been in my cases.....
Ok, Thanks for the replies, just have to be more careful
I would still like to know about the balancing as per Haines. I have found a paint mark on the flywheel which is at about 5 to 12 when the engine is on tdc. the pressure plate only has a bit of a white blob on the side facing forward and that can be placed at about 100 degrees from the flywheel mark but the white line on the cover plate is nowhere near where it should be to make 120 degrees between them. Nor will they all line up.
So what is the feeling, does it matter, ? If you were to buy a new pressure plate or cover plate , what would you do then.?
I would still like to know about the balancing as per Haines. I have found a paint mark on the flywheel which is at about 5 to 12 when the engine is on tdc. the pressure plate only has a bit of a white blob on the side facing forward and that can be placed at about 100 degrees from the flywheel mark but the white line on the cover plate is nowhere near where it should be to make 120 degrees between them. Nor will they all line up.
So what is the feeling, does it matter, ? If you were to buy a new pressure plate or cover plate , what would you do then.?
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TBH...you have no choice
.
I personally wouldn't worry about it in this case ( then again, I'm a smart arse and take photos as I go along
)
Just bung it all back together...it's an airhead !!!
Oh and buy the special shaft grease from Motorworks for them splines !!
. I personally wouldn't worry about it in this case ( then again, I'm a smart arse and take photos as I go along
)Just bung it all back together...it's an airhead !!!
Oh and buy the special shaft grease from Motorworks for them splines !!
Well, got the gearbox out this arvie, good news is that the gearbox oil seal is not ics 1 and 2( not very good pic but you can see the "fling " of grease.)
Ive ordered a new friction plate as the old one is about half worn so I might as well save meself the job of having to do it in the future
I put the last pic on as in the haines manual it speaks of balancing marks on the flywheel, pressure plate and cover plate. I can see a bit of white paint on the cover plate and a slight smudge on the pressure plate but buggered if I can see anything on the flywheel. any idea what it should look like? Is is also paint or a stamp or notch etc.
I also wondered if I should give the various bits a bit of a clean up and paint. All the bits are quite rusty( surface) and would look much better painted and it would reduce dust as well. ( I know no one can see it) and I would use a heat resistant engine paint...... Wotcha think.
JEEEZus Just how many tubes of copperslip did you use
You'd be talking about optimol me thinks. I have some of that used it on the FD splines on the 1200gs when I did the seal the other day
Not leaking anymore
Val.
Proff, It was'nt that much, it just goes a long way 
Kenny, Ive had a look on one or two other sites and the general feeling is that balancing the clutch is not crucial. Apparantly the white " factory marks are the heavy spots on the particular part and the advocate placing them 120 degrees apart. but as has been stated, if you fit new pressure plates or cover plates they will not have any marks on them. One bloke had a way of hanging them up with a piece of string to balance them.. recon I will just do the best I can.
Val, motorworks told me the other day that the no longer do the optimal, ordinary high melting point LM grease is just as good.
recon I will just be careful with how much I put on.
Kenny, Ive had a look on one or two other sites and the general feeling is that balancing the clutch is not crucial. Apparantly the white " factory marks are the heavy spots on the particular part and the advocate placing them 120 degrees apart. but as has been stated, if you fit new pressure plates or cover plates they will not have any marks on them. One bloke had a way of hanging them up with a piece of string to balance them.. recon I will just do the best I can.
Val, motorworks told me the other day that the no longer do the optimal, ordinary high melting point LM grease is just as good
.recon I will just be careful with how much I put on.
Just to finish this off, The new clutch plate arrived this morning. Was a bit surprised when compared to the old one how little "meat" there is, maybe the old one was not so old. anyway, I will clean it up and have it as a spare.
Got everything back in and boxed up having made a number of stupid mistakes in the order of doing things, then having to undo and do again
everything now seems in order so just need to give it a test.
MMMMM What should I tackle next
Got everything back in and boxed up having made a number of stupid mistakes in the order of doing things, then having to undo and do again
everything now seems in order so just need to give it a test.
MMMMM What should I tackle next
fayeslane
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