Damn R1150GS rear caliper (ABS) will not seat!

dust_cloud

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What was to be a quick pad replacement has turned into a fiasco. I got the caliper off, removed the old pads, pressed the pistons back in- no worries. Seated the new pads everything looked fine. Then as I try to re-seat them the rear section slides in fine but the front will not go in. Its like the front slide (with the rubber covered slider) does not budge. Has anyone else had this problem.
Now Im going to round up the teddies that I have thrown out of my pram

ps See you at LLangollen at the weekend R1150GS SE

Cheers
 
Have you cleaned and greased the pin that lives under the rubber gaiter ? It should slide really easy, then make sure that the front end of the pads are located in the alloy carrier.
Stewart
 
Unscrew the other pin so you can pivot the silver bracket . Soak in wd40 then spend an hour twiddling it back and forward till it eventually comes out.
Clean up the rusty pin as well as you can. clean out the hole with a dremel (carefully) and put a dollop of copperslip on it ..... which will make no difference after 6 months , because it will be stuck again.
 
Thanks for your help.

I have dedicated Friday to get the job done, that's on top of the hours spent last weekend and the subsequent great teddy bear masacre. So much for my 15 minute estimate.

Thanks Again
 
Give me a shout here if you get stuck, I am near Wrexham and did my rear caliper this week so its still nice and fresh in my mind :thumb2

Stewart
 
Is it because the pads are different thickness left to right and need to be fitted the right way round?
 
Success!

Thanks for the advice.

The pin to the front was siezed solid.

The trick I needed, as posted above by Den, was to remove the rear pin from the mounting plate. I had to insert a second bolt to push the pin fully out as there is a slight recess in the mounting plate. (The compressed gaitor was pushing the pin back into the recess, so the bolt helped keep the pin out of the recess). Now I could start to rotate the two parts of the caliper. I initally had to use a small piece of wood to get a bit of leverage, to help get things moving. Once there was tiny bit of movement, it was just a case of rotating the two parts back and forth until they free up and the two parts seperated.

Once the seized pin was out I squirted some WD40 into the recess then placed a piece of plastic (from a long raw plug) in a drill and spun it round until the rust type layer disappeared. Cleaned out the recess so it looked sqeaky clean. Then smoothed off the offending pin with very fine W&D, lubricated with WD40. Polished it off and lubricated the pins lightly. Checked that the two parts of the caliper now moved completely smoothly in and out. Reassembled the caliper, gaiters etc. Washed up and then inserted the new pads. Dont want lubricants on the friction areas!

Hey presto the caliper just seated like a dream onto the disk! Torqued everyting up and jobs-a-good'n.

Ready for the Llangollen rideout which included a free brake test from a lamb no less.

I think as Den infers, I best lubricate the offending pin every time the rear wheel comes off, for new tyres etc, rather than wait until the pads wear out.

Thanks again to the GS knowledge Base :thumb2:thumb2
 
I usually add a dab of red rubber grease in the little rubber boot, this lubricates without damaging the rubber, as some other grease can do.

I also put a light smear around the piston caliper interface, this helps to stop ingress of crap into the piston bore and crudding* up the dust seal**

* crudding = technical term describing any form of cack*** inhibiting free piston movement.

** this assumes that BMW calipers do have dust seals. (to date I haven't had to dig that deep)

*** cack = technical term describing any form of crud :confused::rolleyes::augie:D
 


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