It's a 1200....
they all do that sir
they all do that sir
Dead bike - nothing. Any suggestions?
- Thread starter Toad
- Start date
DollyRocket
Registered user
If you have nothing - including no lights, hazard etc then it has to be something relatively easy to trace.
Start at the battery - take the tank off to get easy access to the terminals and the wiring so you can trace how it moves into the loom. You need a meter, it is essential for debugging.
1. Check the batt terminal voltage with ignition off - should be >12.4 volts
2. check the batt terminal voltage with ignition on - assuming a working bike, will be similar, may drop by 0.1V or so
3. now measure the voltage between a few different components, measure between the pos terminal of the battery and various points around the frame with the other lead. The frame is normally connected to the negative terminal of the battery so you should get the same voltage reading . If you don't this could point to a problem.
4. If that checks out, now put the neg lead of the voltmeter on the neg terminal, then check the voltage at the different fuses (the fuses are normally open at the top so you can gently touch the wire with the probe to measure the voltage. - Look for the master fuse (normally a larger fuse)
If the master fuse has gone, be careful as they don't normally go without a reason. Much beyond this is potentially out of the scope of someone who is not familiar with electrical diagnostics. Check the cable runs/loom for potential problems.
Start at the battery - take the tank off to get easy access to the terminals and the wiring so you can trace how it moves into the loom. You need a meter, it is essential for debugging.
1. Check the batt terminal voltage with ignition off - should be >12.4 volts
2. check the batt terminal voltage with ignition on - assuming a working bike, will be similar, may drop by 0.1V or so
3. now measure the voltage between a few different components, measure between the pos terminal of the battery and various points around the frame with the other lead. The frame is normally connected to the negative terminal of the battery so you should get the same voltage reading . If you don't this could point to a problem.
4. If that checks out, now put the neg lead of the voltmeter on the neg terminal, then check the voltage at the different fuses (the fuses are normally open at the top so you can gently touch the wire with the probe to measure the voltage. - Look for the master fuse (normally a larger fuse)
If the master fuse has gone, be careful as they don't normally go without a reason. Much beyond this is potentially out of the scope of someone who is not familiar with electrical diagnostics. Check the cable runs/loom for potential problems.
you don't need a voltmeter to tell if the battery is flat.
get a piece of wire and tie it to the pos terminal - then 'flash' the other end on the frame - lightly and quickly.
you'll soon know if its flat or not by the size of the spark.
sounds like you aren't 100% on this - so best phone a dealer - after all its a BMW and you can afford it - QED
get a piece of wire and tie it to the pos terminal - then 'flash' the other end on the frame - lightly and quickly.
you'll soon know if its flat or not by the size of the spark.
sounds like you aren't 100% on this - so best phone a dealer - after all its a BMW and you can afford it - QED
you don't need a voltmeter to tell if the battery is flat.
get a piece of wire and tie it to the pos terminal - then 'flash' the other end on the frame - lightly and quickly.
you'll soon know if its flat or not by the size of the spark.
sounds like you aren't 100% on this - so best phone a dealer - after all its a BMW and you can afford it - QED
Play time again tomorrow.
If I play now I'll lose the roof I've just fixed....
grimo
Registered user
Just try and jump start the thing first !
Buz
Registered user
Total numpty with bikes!
but
There isn't some kind of fuseable link that cuts out all power to everything is there
but
There isn't some kind of fuseable link that cuts out all power to everything is there
DollyRocket
Registered user
I would suggest you DONT do this, even if it was said as banter - others may read this forum and not get a joke. a battery has the capacity to deliver 150A and this is effectively short circuiting the battery - if you understand the consequences then fine, if not then I wouldn't recommend it to people who don't. It will take fractions of a second to ignite the wire - can you respond that fast? (assuming the spark doesn't fry your motronic?)
Get a Voltmeter and do some basic debugging, check fuses, relays for obvious things - if you get no-where with that and you are out of your depth then time to call in someone who can help - Where abouts are you, if you are local I can call in to take a look - Have you got AA / RAC or similar? They will be able to do these basic checks and if not, get your bike recovered to a dealer.
More often or not it will be something daft with these sorts of faults.
Thanks for the offer, but I'm quite a distance from you!
I'm going to get a voltmeter today and try and trace the fault.
I'll let you know how I get on.......
Dave78
Registered user
I have a voltmeter and am not that far away.. So could pop down for an hour or so to try and give you some assistance..
STUBBS
undead
solidback
Registered user
Mines did something very similar although the fault was intermittent. Turned out to be the ignition switch contacts.
theEnglishman
Registered user
Mines been doing something similar over the winter. I just couldn't see how to get the barrel out to clean it as the EWS ring needs removing and I can't see how to unclip it - there's a knack somewhere I can't figure out.
One late night after work the bike just wouldn't go, no matter how many times i inserted the key and wiggled it about.
So, to get me going, I cleared out the barrel with brake cleaner(loads of dirt came out) and then re-oiled it with 3-in-1 by coating the key and inserting it a few times once the brake cleaner had evaporated. Yes, I know everyone's sucking their teeth, but it was raining, I was tired and I just wanted to get home.
It's been ok since.
So, my bet is on removing/cleaning the barrel. And if you could post up how you removed it I'd be very appreciative.
One late night after work the bike just wouldn't go, no matter how many times i inserted the key and wiggled it about.
So, to get me going, I cleared out the barrel with brake cleaner(loads of dirt came out) and then re-oiled it with 3-in-1 by coating the key and inserting it a few times once the brake cleaner had evaporated. Yes, I know everyone's sucking their teeth, but it was raining, I was tired and I just wanted to get home.
It's been ok since.
So, my bet is on removing/cleaning the barrel. And if you could post up how you removed it I'd be very appreciative.
OK - Mystery solved - bike sorted.
Found the faulty component - the battery charger!!
It's always the simple faults
The charger was indicating that the battery was fully charged when it was actually completely flat.
Jumping it from another battery and all is good.
So, now charging properly and I'm back in the game
Found the faulty component - the battery charger!!
It's always the simple faults
The charger was indicating that the battery was fully charged when it was actually completely flat.
Jumping it from another battery and all is good.
So, now charging properly and I'm back in the game
forest biker
Registered user
OK - Mystery solved - bike sorted.
Found the faulty component - the battery charger!!
It's always the simple faults
The charger was indicating that the battery was fully charged when it was actually completely flat.
Jumping it from another battery and all is good.
So, now charging properly and I'm back in the game
Spot on glad your sorted , i had a feeling it was a flat battery
Glad you are sorted Toad, a voltmeter across the battery terminals probably would have told you all you needed to know. Battery chargers and especially Optimates etc are prone to telling fibs, don't trust them.
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