Destinations Highways - British Columbia

[bladerunner]

Although I hold a Canadian passport, before the summer of 2005 I had never visited that beautiful country, then fate determined that I would go to Vancouver twice in 8 weeks. An international conference in September gave the excuse for the second trip. This coincided with my 48th birthday, so I thought “why not see some of those roads by bike instead of family RV?”

A quick trawl across the interweb identified a bike hire firm and a tourer was booked for 4 days late in September.
So I sat through the science with a wry smile as I was about to ride off into the edge of the envelope.

I had been nervous that the timing was ambitious and motorbikes, solitude, snow and high mountain passes make bad bedfellows. One biking manual said of Canada – “remember, you are not at the top of the food chain”! Fortunately, the excellent web site www.horizonsunlimited.com has a contact facility and through the site, I hooked up with Patrick. He proved to be a marvellous source of local knowledge and was a; a keen international GS rider, b; married and c; not apparently a crazed mad axe murderer. He was also given an exeat for the weekend and was able to ride with me for the first day and a half.

Through the HUBB web site, I was also able to get advice regarding favoured routes. Some suggested: Day 1 ride to Alaska and back; day 2 ride to Calgary etc! Many recommended the guide “Destinations Highways”. This details the top 85 biking roads (DH’s) in British Columbia and rates the roads as worthy of a trip to explore – hence the highway becomes the destination. DH 1 therefore, is deemed the best road in BC, and probably Canada. Armed with it and Mapsource GPS software I was able to plan a round trip – 4 days, 2000km and 23 DH’s. Yum yum!

 

[bladerunner]

Saturday 24th DH 34,28,13,3,21,69

Check out of expensive harbour-side hotel and walk 200m to bike hire office. Latter had been replaced by a large building site but fortunately a previous reccy meant that I had arranged for the bike to be delivered to where the office should have been! Meet up with non-axe wielding biker chum, attach Streetpilot 3 to Pan Euro, put on helmet, remember earplugs, take off helmet, put in earplugs, put on helmet and head off out of Vancouver.

Oddly, bikes do not filter in Canada and transgressing bikers risk cars changing direction or opening doors to frustrate any wayward movements. Shame, as an ex courier I could have quickened the pace.

DH 34 is the sea to sky highway from Vancouver towards Whistler. Try to settle nerves; worry somewhat about the chill in the air, but start to enjoy the powerful bike and cannot but be stunned by the views west across Howe Sound towards Bowen Island. Autumn leaves, a scattering of snow on the upper peaks and scores of small fishing boats chasing the salmon run. We passed a small herd of deer perilously close to a three-lane highway. Traffic was moderate which slowed us down a little – probably not such a bad thing as I was a little dehydrated and fatigued from ongoing jet lag and having been “tired and emotional” at the previous night’s closing diner. However, we were certainly travelling faster than I had taken the family in a 28-foot mobile home earlier in the summer.

I was also beginning to enjoy the Aerostich Darien jacket I had had delivered to the hotel. Reassuring in its construction, a colour which can only be described as PFY (i.e. frightfully yellow!) and a windblock fleece, which blocked the wind.

 

[bladerunner]

Once past Whistler the traffic died down and the pace upped. We skirted the milky waters of Green lake and traced the Green river north towards Pemberton on DH13. This was real mountain country with signs warning of the possibility that the bridge could be washed away – here nature will have her way. We stopped for an early lunch and rehydration in Pemberton and I phoned home. There you are: 7000 miles from UK, surrounded by mountains, an 8 hours time difference and the mobile works clear as a bell!

Pemberton to Lillooet is DH3. The third best biking road in Canada! And I agree! We rode past the Lillooet River through a winding flat plain surrounded by slightly scruffy Indian/native American/aboriginal/first nation reserve lined by autumnal plain trees before passing the Lillooet Lake and starting the climb up through the Cayoosh Range. We were close to the tree line in alpine meadows before the road essed down towards the Duffey Lake, which it hugged for 21 miles.

The road then spans the watershed between the cool coastal rainforest and the warmer interior desert. The air warmed noticeably as cacti quickly replaced Douglas firs and we crossed the Cayoosh creek several times on single lane wooden bridges.

 

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From Lillooet we crossed the massive Fraser River and turned left on DH21 though the old Cariboo gold trail. True cowboy country with straight wooden fences stretching across arid fields with the muddied Fraser River to our left. Thousands of miners came this way in the 1860 and 70s and reminders appear as segments of wooden railroad or derelict stone shacks. Oddly for such a new nation, these interesting historical artefacts were left to very slowly decay in the desert.
Leaving the river to pass the picturesque Pavillion and Crown lakes we rode though the Marble Canyon (huge marble cliffs to our left) and stopped for a brief drink at the Hat Creek Ranch. This would be kitsch cowboys and Indian stuff were it not the real thing in an arid plain.

 

[bladerunner]

From Cache creek to Kamloops on the DH69 I was able to gather my thoughts about the Pan Euro. The road was fast sweeping bends with Kamloops Lake to our left. The Pan was proving an effective tourer as expected although they had given me the cheaper non-ABS, non-heated grips, manual screen version. After 250 miles I had no numbness, no desire to stop and the engine had all the power I would ever need, albeit somewhat anodyne in comparison with the RT. However there were niggles, sufficient that I would never buy one. The ignition key drove me spare – in one way, no joy; try the other, zilch; turn round 3 times and wave your wand and the first way works. For the panniers, the key only has to go in half way, so lord knows how many have been broken off in the locks. This became a hassle as I stopped so often to take photos. I found my heels were resting on the exhaust so although I could stand the heat, my boots are now marked and the reported weaving at higher speeds did reduce one’s confidence. Clearly the BMW telelever and front wishbone suspension is effective, as my 50k mile RT handles better than this Pan.

I had booked hotels ahead and asked for a nice room without the usual double queen bed (settle at the back, we are both married!). However, fortunately, I was able to swap rooms as I wasn’t spooning with 240lbs of Canadian ice hockey player for anyone! After a week of busy on call and one week of jet lag, I slept soundly despite the railway terminal and 200 carriage trains and the rumble of air through the broken nose of a giant cnuck.

 

[bladerunner]

Sunday 25th DH 68,77,2,56,5,60

Day 2 was a crisp 5’c start, which soon warmed up. The DH guide gave an excellent detour off the Highway 1 such that we were curving gently through ponderosa pines on empty roads with only the odd coyote and deer to keep us company. We joined the busier DH77 past Monte Lake towards Vernon where Patrick and I parted. Pat had to ride back to Vancouver and I had to suffer DH2!

I have been riding for 27 years now and the road from Vernon through to the Needles ferry is the most liberating, picturesque and exhilarating 80 miles I have ever ridden. The road roller coasters through the farms of Coldstream valley before setting off like a puppy through canyons and mountain passes. As the road ends in a small car ferry, there are few cages to block your enjoyment, and certainly no speed patrols. There can never be more than 80 cars each hour, as that is all the ferry can hold. Those cars I did run up to often pulled to the right and gave a signal out the window of a pulled fist – as a train-driver pulling the whistle – as if to say “go for it son”! There was one levator ani constriction as I roared from bright sunlight into shadow and had not noticed the small herd of cows in the elbow of a bend. However it was over before it began and did not deter from the sheer bliss, the unfettered joy of letting the spirit fly in the autumnal sunlight.

 

[bladerunner]

At the Needles ferry a hand full of bikers gathered with inane grins and the far away look of satiated riders. Most were from relatively nearby towns but were taking just one last fix before winter stopped them playing outside.

The ride up to Nakusp skirted the huge Columbia river with the Columbia mountains visible ahead. This range is about 3500m and was snow clad. As the light faded and the air chilled my confidence faltered briefly - this was not a good place for it to go wrong. Leave the road and only the bears would notice. However, the GPS is a great Linus blanket, I had booked the hotel and as Baldrick once said “we are not at home to Mrs Cockup”!

I was not confident enough on the Pan to tackle the 10miles of gravel drive up to Sendon - a brief detour to a ghost town. The Silver mines here once gave employment to 7000 men and the town remains where they worked and partied. Instead I chose to ride on via the beautiful DH5 down to Kootenay Lake and my hotel at Ainsworth Hot Springs. Here I enjoyed the eponymous waters which emerge in a horseshoe shaped cave 100m or so into the rock. An excellent cure to any aches and pains.

 

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Day 3 DH 60, 1, 52,58,79,24

Up bright and early I rode past the famous Toad Rock camp site to catch the ferry to Bafour.

 

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Waiting for me on the other side was DH1 – 50 miles of swooping quiet curves with Kootenay Lake to my right. Picture Lake Garda without the traffic or houses. I was caught between the conflicting desires of riding the road, gazing at the view and stopping to take photographs. It is seldom in the UK that the swing of biking can be so consistent and prolonged that one gets vertigo, but on this road I found I occasionally had to slow down or stop because I was getting dizzy from bend after bend, rise after dip.

From Creston, latitude N49 17, (thus very close to the US border), I started my return West to Vancouver. Highway 3, the Crowsnest highway, took me all the way to Hope, via my overnight stop in Osoyoos. The air was crisp clear slightly chilled with brilliant blue sky. The riding was fast through mountain ranges with occasional dead Elk by the road and a Coyote puppy sniffing the carcass. Memo to self:- try to avoid live Elk, they are big.

I rode the Nirvana of bikers – a 270’ right hand 90mph constant radius curve, no traffic and a mountain to my right, beautiful autumn forest to my left. Does it get better than that?

Osoyoos was a dump in the middle of dramatic desert scenery. Surrounding areas have been irrigated to make a fertile wine and fruit growing region. Interestingly, many Sikhs have immigrated here to run successful farms, so the centre of the town had an interesting selection of turban wearing rednecks!

 

[bladerunner]

Tuesday DH 17,32,6,78,44

I left early to catch the morning light and to escape the dreary billboards and E-Z marts and headed off on the white lake observatory road to avoid the Highway 97. The scenery changed from rocky hills and forested canyons to farmlands and dry plateaus. I then skirted to Skaha lake before ascending towards the Apex Mountain ski resort. I had a brief wobble over a sandy corner, but fortunately was not going faster than my guardian angel so she was able to prevent a drop.
I was taking a few pictures when a pleasant retired local came up on his Gold Wing and started chatting. As a welcome to Canada he bought me coffee in Keremous. Friendly folk these Cnucks!

Two last DH’s took me through abandoned cowboy ranches to Princeton and then across Mount Ford and through Sunshine Valley to Hope. Just before Hope, as the road descends, it is possible to see “Hope Slide”. This massive landslide in 1965 has scarred the hill-side and demonstrates the risks of deforestation.

The final route to Vancouver was by Highway 1 freeway. The usual motorway dullness, but safe enough and the Canadian drivers showed courtesy and restraint.

I landed perfectly thanks to the GPS and handed the Pan back to the cycleBC boys. As their bikes appear to be usually hired for posing duties only, I think they were surprised to see the mileage, but impressed enough that the bike had been used as intended.

POST SCRIPT:
Would I do it again? Definitely, 100%. But maybe a little earlier in the year. My new found friend e mailed me the following week to say several of the passes I had used were now snowbound! So make good use of Autumn in Canada, it doesn’t last long!

 

[Pathologic]

Wow!

I can't believe no one else has posted on this report. Fantastic scenery and evocative writing. Really enjoyed it.

The DH website is going on my favourite against the day I can go myself



Path.

 

[earthmover]

Probably because we're all insanely jealous. I know I am.
Good report, will file that away as "To do".
Damn that list is getting long!
Mark

 

[Thermo King]

I did a two week self guided tour of British Columbia and The Canadian Rockies last year. It was brilliant. A lot of the place names and scenery mentioned in the posts above are familiar to me. Will definitely go back there again before I hang up my boots. I had the DH book and we organised our days to take in as many of the recommended routes as we could. DH also do a book on Washington State so I hope to sample some of those next time around.

Regards,
Kieran.

 

[Patrick_Canuck]

How nice to see this report !! I am the non-axemurdering Canadian that met up with the good Dr. in Vancouver. Anyone else that is coming out to Vancouver (winter Olympics in 2010 ??) let me know and I will show you the sights.

A little offroad action for ya !!

Patrick

 

[bladerunner]

Patrick!! How cool to "hear" from you.

I retain excellent memories of our lost weekend - just remember not to tell people what really happened!

You are most welcome to this site - you'll find it worth sponsoring.

And come over to Wales so I can return your excellent Canadian hospitality.

Cheers y'all

Simon

 

[kanhulk13]

Beautiful pictures and great scenery!
It's interesting the comparison between the populated Swiss/French/Italian alps and the much less populated Rocky Mtn's (not incldg the usu. tourist locations).
I also need to get out there for a ride...what is the rough daily rental rate for bikes ex Vancouver?
In the early 90s I went by mtn bike from Van to Calgary, but mostly on No. 1. Revelstoke was quite the climb...
When I lived in Vancouver (actually S, in Tsawwassen) as a kid in the late 60's early 70s the population and traffic was even less, but it still seems the areas you rode in were sparsely populated! Great motorbike area!

 

[bladerunner]

Hi

I used cycle bc

http://www.cyclebc.ca/motorcycles/gs1200.html


they are quoting £117 per day, £620 per week for a 1200GS

(I took the Pan just to road test it to see if I wanted one)


BC also has a culture of lending bikes for a lower fee - mainly Harleys I'm told but I don't know any further details. Apparently adds are placed in local papers. Pat may have more ideas *.

Main difficulty is working out the best time to go as the season is relatively short and August is packed with touring RV's and it can get surprisingly hot. I'd vote for 2nd week September as ideal.



*The "mad axe-wielding" comment came from my family who were aghast that I should trust an unknown met over the internet. I have a more laisse faire attitude and have not been caught out yet. Patrick was the consumate host and good company.

 

[Wilburt]

Top report and great pics! Travelled through all the areas you've mentioned and on some of the same roads, usually in a 4x4 or a 30' motorhome.
Brings the memories flooding back..........can't wait to get back