Differences in Loctite products ?

Dick Dastardly

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Could anyone explain the differences between the different Loctite products ?

Been pouring thru Haynes in a bid to get all the relevant items ready, and they seem to list quite a few different Loctite numbers. Are they all really different, and if they are, are they all REALLY required, or do other GSers use one number as a rule ? If they are all required, is there a 'best before date for the stuff, or will it last until it's all used up...? :nenau

You get the idea of my question, yeah :eek
 
chewing gum -

wrigleys for tight

wrigleys juicey fruit for a bit tighter.

orbit for very tight

plus, if you have a lose thread while on the road, a blade of grass inserted as you tighten :thumb
 
Loctite often use numbers instead of names for their products, so you'll find that you'll have a range of strengths of thread locking compound and maybe liquid PTFE, superglue and so on.
 
I generally use the blue stuff for things that I want to take off without heating them and the red stuff for things I really don't want falling off and can be subjected to heat for removal.......Most bolts on my MZ have a dab of blue or red!!
 
for a road bike - i'd go with nothing more than nutlock.

the key to success is to thoroughly degrease both parts of the thread using something like aerosol brake cleaner - until they are cleaner and drier than new.

loctite won't work on oil or grease !!

blue = nutlock = easy
red = studlock = medium
green = bearings or extra super tight.

( generally )
 
motomartin said:
for a road bike - i'd go with nothing more than nutlock.

the key to success is to thoroughly degrease both parts of the thread using something like aerosol brake cleaner - until they are cleaner and drier than new.

loctite won't work on oil or grease !!

blue = nutlock = easy
red = studlock = medium
green = bearings or extra super tight.

( generally )
Is this the general view, very helpful Motomartin, ta :clap

Tried the Loctite website.... :spank :banghead: :bash :sleep
 
What the man says. I tend to use the blue stuff on caliper bolts and any chassis bolts that might come undone due to vibration. Red stuff is specified for some bm bolts like the one holding the fork bridge to telelever arm and bits of the paralever assembly. A good side effect of the stuff is that it keeps the threads from corroding. The red stuff need to be heated before you try to remove the nut/bolt in case you strip the threads......it does lock them tight!! On my MZ I use the red stuff on footrest mountings and Sprocket studs as these REALLY try to undo themselves!!
 
Do not use studlock on anything that you suspect that you EVERhave to remove. There speaks the voice of bitter experience from 20 odd years ago.
 
Stop bloody guessing you lot :spitfire :spitfire :spitfire .
Go to the Henkel (they own Loctite) website and download the data sheets for the product that meets your need.
 
Loctite 243.

All you really need unless a stronger bond is stipulated- such as on bevel box bearings etc.
 
We used to hold F1 gearboxes together with green 648.

Trying to undo a 7mm nut on a diff stud afterwards - like 20 of them - was the worst job. Even using a propane torch to heat them only helped a bit.

Mclaren are sponsored by them and i've been to numerous info sessions on what to use, where and why.
 
Work out how much money you will save by substituting the correct, recommended grades for 'this might do' alternatives, then ask yourself it it's worth taking the chance.
BMW don't recommend different grades just to give their technicians something to do!
You'll get more satisfaction doing the job properly and doing it once, than riding around wondering if last week's 'good idea' is going to last O.K.
 


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