Dipped beam connector overheating?

[Magwych]

When I switched my dipped beam to a HID burner instead of the standard tungsten filament I had to replace the connector block too. The plastic block was showing signs of being overheated, it was brittle, distorted and blackened in places ..

I cut off the old, and connected a new block, suitable for H7 type bulb fitments.

I noticed this weekend that the new block is showing the same signs, despite being connected to a lower power ( = less amps, = less heat) HID system, which runs at a lower temperature than a standard filament bulb, or so I believe.

Before I switched to HID the bike used to eat bulbs at a a rate of about 4 per year. I had the light unit to research why it momentarily switches off when I hit the speed-bump sized expansion joints of the A20/M20

This make me think I have a loose connection or broken cable somewhere, causing the lights to flicker on and off imperceptibly resulting in excessive current draw?

The bike is a 2008 R1200GSA MU, with aux lights ad the starter relay relocated under the ZFE.

There are at least 2 things I am initially looking for, the first is the earth point for the lights, and the second is the location of the aux lights relay. The first so that I can check that it is clean and good, the second because I am assuming the aux lights are switched by the main power feed to the dipped beam. I hope it is not the other relay under the ZFE, they are such a PITA to get to ..,

Anyone know either? Or, suffered the same and managed to fix it?

 

[Bendy toy]

I cant answer the specific wiring questions, but any connector that is overheating is either not big enough for the power it carries or there is a high resistance in the connector itself. The crimp can be suspect.

Try soldering on some individual female spade connectors with silicone insulation covers.

 

[Myke Rocks]

2 items here.

First the pedant in me. They are not bulbs, they are lamps.

Next: the heating problem.

Replace both lamp and connector. Either oxidised will destroy the other.

Lamp failures.
Always buy a good branded lamp.
There is lots of rubbish out there. In cars, If I bought off a local supplier, they lasted 6 weeks. Changed to a branded lamp from another supplier, and problem disappeared.
E.G. Philips, Halfords. They are reputable.

Myke

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

............

Lamp failures.
Always buy a good branded lamp.
........................

Myke

IME 1200's are prone to eating bulbs, branded or not - the best cure for my bike was fitting HIDs

...........

I noticed this weekend that the new block is showing the same signs, despite being connected to a lower power ( = less amps, = less heat) HID system, which runs at a lower temperature than a standard filament bulb, or so I believe.

............

I'm not saying this is your problem but I'm not so sure that HIDs produce less heat than a halogen H7 as borne out by the fact that my reflector is 'scorched' above the bulb (sorry 'lamp' ). The HID has been fitted for approx 35,000 miles. However, I very recently fitted a new bulb and my connector block (now 50,000 miles old) was fine

Andres

 

[(RIP) Miff]

Lamps are what you put BULBS in.

After all, what did they make in the bulb factory???

http://www.yfaonline.com/film/ceag-light-bulb-factory-barnsley

 

[Bendy toy]

Most HIDs are 30 watts and can make 3 times the light as a standard 55 watts halogen bulb. More useful light output for nearly 55% of the power.

They can however have a poor focus so avoid cheap kits

 

[Magwych]

Yes I had been buying good quality quartz based, gas filled ampules fitted internally with a tungsten element and filled with an inert gas of the halogen series ....

Semantics aside, the main reason for going to HIDs was the frequency of failures of whatever you want to call the clear lighty-brighty bit. I haven't had one of the HD bits fail in the last 50,000 miles, so they seem OK. But, the insulation around the connector for the positive feed was looking decidedly heat stressed again.

I have just replaced the connectors (are we allowed to cal them that?) again; this time I used a good quality wire stripper and crimper that I bought for a rewire of the boat. I finished it off with the application of somne solder on the terminals to complete and seal the connection.


I could not find a particular smoking guns that would indicate why the lights go off when I am bounced out of my seat by the appalling surface of the A20. I will see tomorrow if it goes off or not.

If it keeps doing this I am going to have to chase the whole lighting wiring through :-( ...

Now that winter is here, maybe we should have a "What's the proper name for this bit" section dedicated to defining the correct nomenclature of parts; affording us a platform for lively, humorous and friendly debate of the subject

 

[Bendy toy]

A bad earth could cause the flickering connection as could a faulty battery or terminal. But the latter would at least have some effect on engine starts so further down the list.

Some relays can be affected by vibration so that's another potential source. None of this covers the hot terminals so maybe "they all do that sir". You've done all you can with crimp and solder.

 

[G5RJO]

Isn't there a plug and socket on the back of the light unit? I think it's next to the side light. Been a while since I've had my oversize hands there but my connector was corroded and furred up.... my HiD unit kept cutting out and that was the cause, over a bump and it went off, sounds similar to me and worth a look.

From memory it's a right angled black plug...

Roger.

 

[Sloth]

I have to agree with Bendy toy ... bad earth ... especially when you mention the lights flickering/go out on the A20 speed bumps .

 

[skywalker]

The fault is the headlamp unit wiring from the connector to the external plug. ie the wiring is overheating -poor quality wire . New headlamp time.

 

[Bendy toy]

To save me opening mine - is the headlamp really that bad? I mean, is it not possible to install new wires to replace the weak stuff.

 

[Delboy777]

To save me opening mine - is the headlamp really that bad? I mean, is it not possible to install new wires to replace the weak stuff.

Would have thought any auto electrician worth his salt could do that if you dont feel you can do it yourself

 

[Bendy toy]

I was replying to this. It sounds a bit drastic to me, but I have not had my headlamp apart to look.

The fault is the headlamp unit wiring from the connector to the external plug. ie the wiring is overheating -poor quality wire . New headlamp time.

 

[skywalker]

Headlamp is not designed to be taken apart. The fact that your bike used to eat headlamp bulbs was possibly a result of the headlamp internal wiring being the issue. Had a similar fault with a R1200RT knocking one dip beam out intermittantly - headlamp at fault. Try Ebay for a second hand one if you don't fancy buying new.

 

[Magwych]

Looks like it was the dodgy internal connection; which I had replaced with another dodgy internal connection.

The second replacement seems to have reolved the problem - so far.