DIY aux lights. How did you do yours?

[VAL. H.]

Hi,

I'm ready to fit auxiliary lights to my 1200gs but I'm a bit worried about the Can-Bus.

I fitted two sets to the other half's 650 so it's really just the Can-Bus that is the concern.

It's possible to get a plug and play loom from BMW but that's for only one set of lights and of course I want two. I was also told it might be necessary to do a software update so the can-bus doesn't act against them.

Something else I want to build in is the ability to upgrade to HID at a later date.

Is there anything I need to be careful of any advice? What about the multi switch, is it a benefit or a hindrance?

Has anyone drawn a diagram of their loom that you might be prepared to pass on?

Cheers Val.

 

[Les Wassall]

pm sent

 

[Phil Clarke]

I got a set of hella micro DE's and fitted them to my H&B tank bars. I used a centec fuse panel from nippy normans - this effectively creates a secondary non canbus wiring loom connected straight to the battery. I used a relay which I mounted on the side of the fuel tank under the LHS silver coloured tin panel. I took a trigger wire from the back of the headlight bulb connector plug. With care and a thin soldering iron you can solder the trigger wire onto the spade connector rather than use a hideous bodge tastic scotchlock connector. Due to stupidity at the first attempt I attached the wire to the main rather than dip beam however this means I have a trigger wire already connected for when I fit some spots wired to come on with high beam. I included a switch on the trigger wire as I wanted to be able to turn the hellas off for off roading, battery conservation etc.

The hellas are fairly cheap and nasty. As supplied the mounting bolts are horrible self tapping cheapo screws. I tapped an M6 thread out - the holes in the light body are already the right diameter for this, you just need all three M6 taps - ie starter, mid and plug. The worst thing about the hellas is the very thin aluminimum back plate which incorporates a spade connector for the earth connection. This bends and breaks very easily. If you fancy going HID I would do this straight away as the HID conversion does away with this panel. The rubber boot on the back of the light does not have much space for wires. I ran the main feed wire from the fuse panel to the LH light and then ran a wire from the LH to the RH light - this was a mistake as you end up trying to cram two sets of wires into the back of the LH light. Instead connect two separate feed wires (1 per light) from a junction with the main feed wire using spade connectors.

Total time was about 4 hours inc. brews, faff time and swearing.

 

[Dreamer]

I did mine on the cheap over 2 years ago and tehy're still going strong

Full details here: http://www.hsl-consulting.co.uk/1200gs spotlights.doc

(including photos, parts list and wiring diagram)

 

[andyclift]

I fitted a pair of Touratech aux HIDs. They came with a full wiring loom and instructions and were no problem to install. The power for the lights comes direct from the battery with a relay connected to main and dip beams.

I tend to think all this worry about the CANBUS is over-rated. My GS has the aux. lights, Autocom, satnav, and phone charger with no problems. I fitted a Centech fuse panel under the seat, wired it direct to the battery with a heavy cable with a relay powered from the aux. socket. Everything works as it should and the aux socket is used for my heated vest.

 

[VAL. H.]

I did mine on the cheap over 2 years ago and tehy're still going strong

Full details here: http://www.hsl-consulting.co.uk/1200gs spotlights.doc

(including photos, parts list and wiring diagram)

Thanks guys for your input, much valued cheers


Dreamer you've done a great job with your instructions. They'll be very handy indeed.

I know where I'm heading now... Off to Nippies for a Centech fuse panel.

 

[howdoo]

Dreamer

Thanks for posting that link again.
I followed your instructions 18 months ago and am totally happy with the result.
I wanted to thank you then, but couldn't find the page again.
So, Thank You.

 

[Boxadog]

Hey Dreamer great set of instructions, will be doing the same to mine soon.

Ta

Bob

 

[Dreamer]

Thanks for posting that link again.
I followed your instructions 18 months ago and am totally happy with the result.
I wanted to thank you then, but couldn't find the page again.
So, Thank You.

Thanks howdoo, it's good to know it came in handy

 

[Big-G]

I did mine on the cheap over 2 years ago and tehy're still going strong

Full details here: http://www.hsl-consulting.co.uk/1200gs spotlights.doc

(including photos, parts list and wiring diagram)

Being a numpty this has blown my brain. Is there not a set that just plugs in without all the fuss. I struggle with a 2 piece jig-saw
G

 

[Wizard]

Being a numpty this has blown my brain. Is there not a set that just plugs in without all the fuss. I struggle with a 2 piece jig-saw
G

PIAA lamps come with looms that only need three connections..... +ve, -ve, and a switched supply. The first two go straight to the battery, and the switching line can go to the ignition relay, the back of a headlight, or anywhere else that's live when the engine's running. One the 1200's, I would normally connect the switch line to the back of the headlight using the wee gromit that's already fitted to the lights.

HTH

 

[Big-G]

PIAA lamps come with looms that only need three connections..... +ve, -ve, and a switched supply. The first two go straight to the battery, and the switching line can go to the ignition relay, the back of a headlight, or anywhere else that's live when the engine's running. One the 1200's, I would normally connect the switch line to the back of the headlight using the wee gromit that's already fitted to the lights.

HTH

Sounds good to me. Can any one point me to these PIAA and which ones I need
Cheers
G

 

[Bengaz]

I got a set of hella micro DE's and fitted them to my H&B tank bars. I used a centec fuse panel from nippy normans - this effectively creates a secondary non canbus wiring loom connected straight to the battery. I used a relay which I mounted on the side of the fuel tank under the LHS silver coloured tin panel. I took a trigger wire from the back of the headlight bulb connector plug. With care and a thin soldering iron you can solder the trigger wire onto the spade connector rather than use a hideous bodge tastic scotchlock connector. Due to stupidity at the first attempt I attached the wire to the main rather than dip beam however this means I have a trigger wire already connected for when I fit some spots wired to come on with high beam. I included a switch on the trigger wire as I wanted to be able to turn the hellas off for off roading, battery conservation etc.

The hellas are fairly cheap and nasty. As supplied the mounting bolts are horrible self tapping cheapo screws. I tapped an M6 thread out - the holes in the light body are already the right diameter for this, you just need all three M6 taps - ie starter, mid and plug. The worst thing about the hellas is the very thin aluminimum back plate which incorporates a spade connector for the earth connection. This bends and breaks very easily. If you fancy going HID I would do this straight away as the HID conversion does away with this panel. The rubber boot on the back of the light does not have much space for wires. I ran the main feed wire from the fuse panel to the LH light and then ran a wire from the LH to the RH light - this was a mistake as you end up trying to cram two sets of wires into the back of the LH light. Instead connect two separate feed wires (1 per light) from a junction with the main feed wire using spade connectors.

Total time was about 4 hours inc. brews, faff time and swearing.

have you got any idea where to get the h+d tank and crash bars from please and do you have a pic of yours with the lights fitted?
ta!

 

[Dreamer]

PIAA lamps come with looms that only need three connections..... +ve, -ve, and a switched supply. The first two go straight to the battery, and the switching line can go to the ignition relay, the back of a headlight, or anywhere else that's live when the engine's running. One the 1200's, I would normally connect the switch line to the back of the headlight using the wee gromit that's already fitted to the lights.

HTH

That's exactly the same number of connections to the bike as my version!

Maybe I made it sound more difficult than it was...

 

[Phil Clarke]

H&B crash bars available from motobins (they have a web site) They were about £120 and you need the H&B engine bars. I think the wunderlich website has pictures with there own lights fitted

No pics currently but I'll try and suss them out

 

[Bengaz]

Thanks