Do I need to remap.

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Was in another dealers today (not my local one) and was discussing the merits of a full system etc and told the chap I just had decat headers with standard can, oooohhh...he said, with much drawing in of breathe through his teeth....you need to get that remapped of yer gonna blow exhaust valves :eek:

So what's the collective opinion on this :nenau
 
There are two benefits to remapping your bike - especially if you tinker with the air flow (which you have !)

The first is that it protects it. The engine, and significantly the valves and their stems are designed to glow red hot. But they're not designed to glow white hot. (Bit of poetic licence there with my colour coding but you get the drift..). When they get that hot the big danger is that the metal starts to blister, the valve stems stick and ... bang .. your engine blows up.
By removing the cat you are improving the air exhaust. That in turn will improve the air induction. So you're blowing on the embers of your fire and encouraging it to burn hotter. A remap will balance that all out and readjust the fuelling to compensate.


The second benefit to remapping is that you can iron out all those EU regs and rules in your dyno chart and quite simply make it run like it should if the emission people didn't get involved. The benefit to you is not extra top end or 10 more BHP, it's beautiful fuelling that is crisp and extremely precise. Wet greasy roundabouts, riding in traffic, precise revs on down changes .... it's that sort of precise fuelling that make remaps worth it.

If I was in your shoes and I'd taken out the cat, i'd actually then go the whole hog (ok, I know it's more money ..) but i'd buy an end can and then get it remapped. (Don't map it and then buy the can ..... )

:thumb2
 
Giles sums it up nicely. I've just taken the Rallye to be remapped today, and it now runs perfectly, has no flat spots or vibrations.:thumb

Money well spent.
 
There are two benefits to remapping your bike - especially if you tinker with the air flow (which you have !)

The first is that it protects it. The engine, and significantly the valves and their stems are designed to glow red hot. But they're not designed to glow white hot. (Bit of poetic licence there with my colour coding but you get the drift..). When they get that hot the big danger is that the metal starts to blister, the valve stems stick and ... bang .. your engine blows up.
By removing the cat you are improving the air exhaust. That in turn will improve the air induction. So you're blowing on the embers of your fire and encouraging it to burn hotter. A remap will balance that all out and readjust the fuelling to compensate.


The second benefit to remapping is that you can iron out all those EU regs and rules in your dyno chart and quite simply make it run like it should if the emission people didn't get involved. The benefit to you is not extra top end or 10 more BHP, it's beautiful fuelling that is crisp and extremely precise. Wet greasy roundabouts, riding in traffic, precise revs on down changes .... it's that sort of precise fuelling that make remaps worth it.

If I was in your shoes and I'd taken out the cat, i'd actually then go the whole hog (ok, I know it's more money ..) but i'd buy an end can and then get it remapped. (Don't map it and then buy the can ..... )

:thumb2

Very elegant explanation and very true.

Remaps are not just about BHP increases on paper. The rolling road graph will show you where extra power has been added through the rev range.

I've seen people (on car remaps) spend £1000 and only get an increase of 5 BHP on top of stock cars, with others taking the piss and laughing. However, those remapped cars in the midrange and torque are 50bhp and 100lb/ft more through a 2500-3000 rev range... and annihilate stock cars.

So you need the full story on a remap chart.
 
If the ECU on the LC is anything like the TC, which I imagine it is, changing the headers and/or the silencer will not cause any problems with the fuelling.
The ECU will adapt to these small changes fairly quickly. The ECU is a vey clever thing.
Changing the headers will give a small boost with slightly more noise. Again, comparing with the TC, if you spend big money on the like of an Akro, you'll get the same power as stock.
Buy cheaper silencer and you may well get more noise but loose power. Few give an increase (2bhp) without a massive increase in dB.
Hard to admit, but BMW do know how to design an efficient exhaust without excessive noise.
As an alternative to a re map, check out the AF-XiED O2 manipulators.
Even a mechanical chimp can install them in half an hour and will give all the benefits of a re map. Plug and play.
A big plus, especially to those LC riders on a PCP deal, is that you don't kiss off £350 at trade in time. Transfer them to your new LC or get a large whack of your money back when you sell them.
To my knowledge, only one person on the forum has had experience of both a re map and the AF-XiED units. He says he can't tell the difference.
I have had them on my TC for over a year and 20k miles. Made me decide not to trade in for an LC after all.
Smooth, flexible and pulls like a train from under 2k rpm. Quite nippy wide open, too.
As Warlord says, it's the midrange and torque increases that are important.
 
Giles sums it up nicely. I've just taken the Rallye to be remapped today, and it now runs perfectly, has no flat spots or vibrations.:thumb

Money well spent.

Nutty, I had my GSA Hilltopped with the Akra end can but have just got the Akra Ti headers yesterday. ECU will compensate? Surely don't need Hilltop again.
 
Nutty, I had my GSA Hilltopped with the Akra end can but have just got the Akra Ti headers yesterday. ECU will compensate? Surely don't need Hilltop again.

Apparently, you won't need to go back, and the ecu will compensate.:thumb
 
Beemerboneyard.com or Nightrider.com. It is connected in series with each of your O2 sensors, which is your fueling system's reference. By shifting the reference, the BMSK is directed to add fuel. It's exactly like turning your home thermostat up or down except it adjusts the amount of oxygen in your exhaust rather than temperature.
 
Where does one acquire one of these and what does one do with it ??

Hi Cabby, there is a thread running on the hexhead section about the AF-XIED, take a look. I fitted them to my wc and I'm very happy with the results. As has been said you can put them on your next bike or sell them on.
 
The ECU will be programmed to maintain a value measured at the lambda sensor in the exhaust, so if you suddenly reduce the resistance in the exhaust more air will pass. The ECU will eventually correct for this...however it's not instant say 100-200 miles.. so there will be a period of time then the bike will run lean while the ECU adjusts.

So if you go and cane the engine to enjoy the "extra power" you run the real risk of running dangerously lean especially at the higher end of the rev range.

We know (thanks to roger04RT) that the old oilheads ECU's and possibly the hexhead applied correction very broadly, though the LC's ecu may not operate in the same way.

So, you shouldnt need a remap again, however take it easy for a few hundred miles gradually working up the rev range to allow the ECU to adjust.
 
Come along to a "Group Discount Dates" for forum members. It is by appointment, to save you hanging around for hours if you don't want to (but most do).

Next Dates:

Saturday 20th May
Saturday 17th June

PM me and I will give you a time slot between 09:00-13:00 on the Dyno. Meet other members of the forum and exchange experiences and anecdotes.

If you are not 100% happy, Geoff will roll your bike back to the factory defaults and give you a full refund.


The usual price is £350, but on a "Group Discount Date" you pay £300 or £250 as a returning clients. There is a £10 additional fee for non-BMW.
 
To get back to your original question, Cabby.

No, you don't need a re map or a pair of AF XiED units. Your ECU will adjust and your bike will adjust to pretty much stock AF settings with the changes that you have made.
BTW, that dealer you mentioned is to be avoided.

If you are having any issues with surging, vibration or hesitation, then you have two real options.
Fit a pair of AF XiED units that work with the standard ECU and, over a few tanks of fuel, will cure these problems with a slightly richer AF ratio than can be easily adjusted.
When the time comes to trade in, you can easily remove them and sell them on. Or fit them to your new bike if it's compatible.
Or, you can follow the crowd, drive 700 miles and kiss off at least £300 for a re map. It works well, too. Come trade in time, or the end of a PCP deal, bid a fond farewell to your cash.
Both work well and, according to the only forum member who has tried both, there's no noticeable difference in real world driveability.
Of course, with the AF XiED's, you won't have yer Dyno chart to post on to the forum! Ah well.
Mind you, there has been a bit of a frenzy on another thread ref a re map, when an owner said that he didn't notice any difference! There is much wailing and gnashing of teeth with the Hilltop acolytes.
Could it be that BMW have cracked it with the latest version of software? :mmmm
 
The ECU will be programmed to maintain a value measured at the lambda sensor in the exhaust, so if you suddenly reduce the resistance in the exhaust more air will pass. The ECU will eventually correct for this...however it's not instant say 100-200 miles.. so there will be a period of time then the bike will run lean while the ECU adjusts.

So if you go and cane the engine to enjoy the "extra power" you run the real risk of running dangerously lean especially at the higher end of the rev range.

We know (thanks to roger04RT) that the old oilheads ECU's and possibly the hexhead applied correction very broadly, though the LC's ecu may not operate in the same way.

So, you shouldnt need a remap again, however take it easy for a few hundred miles gradually working up the rev range to allow the ECU to adjust.

Thank you. You're completely right - got it fitted on Friday and went out to cane it on Sat and Sun and feel like some kind of Rossi, ha. Will calm it down and ride in road and regularly for the next two rides by which I should have about 150-200 miles.

Thank you again.
 
Of course you won't have a dyno chart as AF owner's crap themselves over wasting all that money !!!!

Or, on a more balanced and tolerant view, make your own mind up, there are zealots on both side's.

It is about driveability and every day use that counts far more than massive bhp figures.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
 


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