from what I hear those cans are loud...
Can't wait to see this all together.
If you're only in Devon, you should be able to hear it when it's all together
Dogbytes' R80 ST project
- Thread starter Dogbytes
- Start date
If you're only in Devon, you should be able to hear it when it's all together
Dogbytes
The BMW badges you have fitted to the fork stantions are from the standard BMW R80G/S or R80ST panniers...
I have a pair waiting to go on the forks of my ST..... great minds think alike !
Can't wait to see your beast finished.....
Bubb
The BMW badges you have fitted to the fork stantions are from the standard BMW R80G/S or R80ST panniers...
I have a pair waiting to go on the forks of my ST..... great minds think alike !
Can't wait to see your beast finished.....
Bubb
I just had to take about a millimetre off one end and they went straight in. Would that everything was that simple!
Advice would be handy - front wheel spindle, etc...
Okay, so the components that came off the wheel don't seem to completely agree with any diagram I can find. That might go some way towards explaining why the won't go back on in any way that is obvious to me!
Here's what I think should go on - but how? In what order?
PS Sorry for the upside down pic - I've tried uploading it half a dozen times and it doesn't matter which way up I submit it - it's still this way up when it appears. So be it...
Modded for you
Okay, so the components that came off the wheel don't seem to completely agree with any diagram I can find. That might go some way towards explaining why the won't go back on in any way that is obvious to me!
Here's what I think should go on - but how? In what order?
PS Sorry for the upside down pic - I've tried uploading it half a dozen times and it doesn't matter which way up I submit it - it's still this way up when it appears. So be it...
Modded for you
Attachments
markjackson
Registered user
PS Sorry for the upside down pic - I've tried uploading it half a dozen times and it doesn't matter which way up I submit it - it's still this way up when it appears. So be it...
You have carpet on your ceiling!
You have carpet on your ceiling!
Absolutely - and the gravity works the other way up I'm my workshop too!
More nice toys which turned up today
Take me to your leader!
Pingel high flow fuel tap. Had to get it direct from Pingel in the States - the UK retailers (several) couldn't be bothered to look to see what adapters they had on their shelves.
Brembo RCS brake master cylinder and matching cable clutch lever. Harris Performance had to order them in but, unlike others I could name, they could be bothered - and they got them to me quicker than they promised too.
It was these or ISR, these are cheaper than ISR - but 'cheaper' is a relative term...
Take me to your leader!
Pingel high flow fuel tap. Had to get it direct from Pingel in the States - the UK retailers (several) couldn't be bothered to look to see what adapters they had on their shelves.
Brembo RCS brake master cylinder and matching cable clutch lever. Harris Performance had to order them in but, unlike others I could name, they could be bothered - and they got them to me quicker than they promised too.
It was these or ISR, these are cheaper than ISR - but 'cheaper' is a relative term...Attachments
Broken thumbs - and the avoidance thereof...
I've given the tank a bit of a bashing to clear where the clip-ons fasten round the fork stanchions. However the twistgrip housing still fouled, so I've made up a little add-on lock stop. A pain having to hacksaw and file it, I miss my mill!
I've given the tank a bit of a bashing to clear where the clip-ons fasten round the fork stanchions. However the twistgrip housing still fouled, so I've made up a little add-on lock stop. A pain having to hacksaw and file it, I miss my mill!
Attachments
LOL. Nothing for you to worry about, Chris, I did it really neatly.
You'd better have!
Set subframe
At long last, I managed to spend a little bit of time on the seat subframe. I've cut and TIG-welded in place, the seat hoop and... Well actually that's it. I really don't want to fix it to the frame until I know where the top of the back tyre is going to end up with the rear suspension in the fully compressed position. For that I need the wheels finished and for that I need to finish the wheel jig.
All in good time. Progress is being made!
The original plan was to house the battery in the seat hump. However the battery is so heavy I've gone off the idea - so it'll probably end up above the gearbox.
Speaking of which, Richie Moore is currently rebuilding one for me with higher ratio 1st and 2nd gears for that close-ratio effect.
Still looking for a 32:10 final drive...
At long last, I managed to spend a little bit of time on the seat subframe. I've cut and TIG-welded in place, the seat hoop and... Well actually that's it. I really don't want to fix it to the frame until I know where the top of the back tyre is going to end up with the rear suspension in the fully compressed position. For that I need the wheels finished and for that I need to finish the wheel jig.
All in good time. Progress is being made!
The original plan was to house the battery in the seat hump. However the battery is so heavy I've gone off the idea - so it'll probably end up above the gearbox.
Speaking of which, Richie Moore is currently rebuilding one for me with higher ratio 1st and 2nd gears for that close-ratio effect.
Still looking for a 32:10 final drive...
Attachments
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bettery
How about putting the battery UNDER the gearbox... theres a few have done it for the cafe racer clean look, but I recon it might help with the weight distribution for your track-beast.
Keep up the good work, and keep posting please..... can't wait to see it finished.
Bubb
How about putting the battery UNDER the gearbox... theres a few have done it for the cafe racer clean look, but I recon it might help with the weight distribution for your track-beast.
Keep up the good work, and keep posting please..... can't wait to see it finished.
Bubb
That is a very good idea, particularly from the centre of gravity point of view. I have two potential problems with it though... The first is, admittedly more psychological than actual, that I'd worry about it being prone to damage. The second is that it's great if you're running two-into-two pipes - but I'll be running two-into-one and it may be in the way. I will check it out though.
It turns out that the wheel bearings fitted to my bike were the wrong ones! Well, according to James Sherlock when he sold me the replacements. Further investigation would indicate that he's right too.
The ones I took out were 539816 rather than, the correct, 30203. Obviously the inner and outer diameters were correct (40mm & 17mm) but the ones fitted were wider.
A quick Google search seems to indicate that these bearings are more usually found in oil-head swing-arm pivots...
The ones I took out were 539816 rather than, the correct, 30203. Obviously the inner and outer diameters were correct (40mm & 17mm) but the ones fitted were wider.
A quick Google search seems to indicate that these bearings are more usually found in oil-head swing-arm pivots...
andrewinuk
Registered user
i'd second avoiding having the battery way out back.
one of the biggest changes in handling i have felt in a bike (a 1992 ducati 900ss) was getting rid of the stock exhaust and putting on some featherweight carbon cans. it transformed the turning of the bike and was actually easier / faster to turn afterwards.
thinking putting a great lump of lead up high and so far from the centre of the bike will remove a lot of the gains you are making with the transformation...... BTW, loving the build!
one of the biggest changes in handling i have felt in a bike (a 1992 ducati 900ss) was getting rid of the stock exhaust and putting on some featherweight carbon cans. it transformed the turning of the bike and was actually easier / faster to turn afterwards.
thinking putting a great lump of lead up high and so far from the centre of the bike will remove a lot of the gains you are making with the transformation...... BTW, loving the build!
Motorcycle Michael
Registered user
The way to solve the Battery situation is expensive but it works.
Mount it high where you're intending to place it now,that will keep it out of harms way with clean lines but use a Lithium battery-problem solved.
Mount it high where you're intending to place it now,that will keep it out of harms way with clean lines but use a Lithium battery-problem solved.
markjackson
Registered user
The way to solve the Battery situation is expensive but it works.
Mount it high where you're intending to place it now,that will keep it out of harms way with clean lines but use a Lithium battery-problem solved.
On the old triumph twin I'm building for track use, I put quite a bit of thought on the location of random things like coils, batteries, cdi, fuel, me….
I'm reducing weight where it's easy, but generally moving easily relocatable stuff upwards and forwards. It goes against the more traditional racing philosophy (which probably leaked out from car engineers) of chasing the lowest possible CoG, but is based upon the teachings of the late John Robinson (and his brilliant chassis book), and practical experience with a few bikes with radically different CoG.
My interpretation of John Robinson's principle (maybe wrong, but it works for me) is that when the CoG is just right (on the tyres and track it's intended for) the bike will move between wheelie and wheelspin (Stoppie or front skid) when your body movement is back or forwards. With CoG too low, like a drag bike on wet tarmac, it will wheelspin/skid the front or when it's too high, like a supermoto on dry tarmac it will always wheelie/stoppie.
Equally, the effect of CoG height on cornering is interesting when one does the maths (or tries changes in practice), particularly when tyres get wide and the displacement of the tyres 'point-of-contact' from the centreline is greater. My other Bonnie always locked the front (rather than stop pie) and never wheeled, so I reckoned I try to move the CoG up and forwards until I can lift the back wheel on the brakes.
It's all nonsense anyway of course, on Airheads/old triumphs, as normally the brakes don't work, the power is never that great and the tyres rarely wider than a 120 anyway, but it lets the rider think his bike is better (confidence is king) and I would still absolutely recommend John Robinson's 'Chassis Tuning' book.
Motorcycle Michael
Registered user
Weight?
Centre of gravity?
Maths?
I'm building a Flying Brick project that has so much mass,it generates it's own gravity field!......Oh Bugger!!
