Dogbytes' R80 ST project
- Thread starter Dogbytes
- Start date
FYI
My friendly local BMW dealer tells me that, whilst the 32:10 bevel box for a Monolever is still listed, it's shown as nil stock in UK and Germany. He's suspects that if I tried to order one it wouldn't turn up. As a matter of interest they are listed at £854 inc VAT.
I'm still waiting to hear about my alternative cunning plan. Watch this space...
My friendly local BMW dealer tells me that, whilst the 32:10 bevel box for a Monolever is still listed, it's shown as nil stock in UK and Germany. He's suspects that if I tried to order one it wouldn't turn up. As a matter of interest they are listed at £854 inc VAT.
I'm still waiting to hear about my alternative cunning plan. Watch this space...
Beemerboff
Registered user
Cheaper just to have a rim laced up to take a 130 tire ,not hard to get a 5% change.
Or change the top gear to a higher one - some folks have a 10% higher. But not all the gears are the same quality, and I dont know how to tell the difference.
Before you fit them ,that is.
Even easier to learn to tune these things- once you get the hang of it and get it running properly you wont notice the 5% change in revs
Or change the top gear to a higher one - some folks have a 10% higher. But not all the gears are the same quality, and I dont know how to tell the difference.
Before you fit them ,that is.
Even easier to learn to tune these things- once you get the hang of it and get it running properly you wont notice the 5% change in revs
I actually wanted a much greater difference than the 32/10 would have given me but I was interested in what that route would have cost in comparison to others I had in mind.
The other possibility that occurred to me was to have a new set of bevel gears made - 34/13 (2.62:1) or 32/11 (2.91:1) but I've spoken to Nova Racing, who I thought might be able to do it, and they can't cut gears the size of the crown wheel. (A shame as the added cacophony of straight cut final drive gears would have sounded great!) I haven't entirely given up on that idea though.
Another possibility is the gear set Nova make for racing Airhead sidecar outfits. These bikes have smaller wheels and have the gearing issue all the time. Using these gears takes the end load off the shafts too as they're straight cut. The only downside is that they're about £2k a set.
I could, of course, have just got an engine built that would rev 1000 revs higher!
Or, I could convert to a two-sided swing-arm and use 5-series racing 2.6:1 bevel gears.
The possibilities are many - it's a learning curve. I won't have this problem with the next one.
markjackson
Registered user
Drilling drain plugs for lock wire is bloody difficult when you've replaced them all with stainless!
It's looking great, but I feel your stainless-drilling pain, having wanted to scrutineer-proof the stainless covered R90S last week. The ally oil filler was nice and easy to drill though.
And it has allowed me to pass on the pleasure of lock wiring to a new generation too.
It's looking great, but I feel your stainless-drilling pain, having wanted to scrutineer-proof the stainless covered R90S last week. The ally oil filler was nice and easy to drill though.
And it has allowed me to pass on the pleasure of lock wiring to a new generation too.
I was just reading your thread - your bike looks great on the track.
I was using Cobalt bits too - didn't make it any better. I look forward to doing the oil filler!
There is something therapeutic about it - one else the holes are drilled...
Just about finished cutting things up (except for the exhaust!)
The frame, seat subframe and monolever are going for powdercoating tomorrow.
After that, it's mainly a putting back together job.
I've finished fitting the last bits to the frame (all will be revealed) and the last gussets on the seat subframe. I'll be in the workshop early tomorrow to try to adapt a sash cramp to strip the driveshaft out!
PS Just remembered, I need to ack a little bracket onto the seat subframe so I can git a number plate when required...
The frame, seat subframe and monolever are going for powdercoating tomorrow.
After that, it's mainly a putting back together job.
I've finished fitting the last bits to the frame (all will be revealed) and the last gussets on the seat subframe. I'll be in the workshop early tomorrow to try to adapt a sash cramp to strip the driveshaft out!
PS Just remembered, I need to ack a little bracket onto the seat subframe so I can git a number plate when required...
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markjackson
Registered user
Where's the lugs for the bike pump?
What colour powder coat? (Remember that blue frames are fastest! )
What colour powder coat? (Remember that blue frames are fastest!
)
Where's the lugs for the bike pump?
What colour powder coat? (Remember that blue frames are fastest!
I'll keep the bike pump in one of the panniers
(I do have the original one!)Blue frames, I was so tempted to finish it in HP colours. I was also tempted by orange and silver, yellow and black and, particularly, Gulf colours. However, in the end, I decided on a monochrome finish - so powder coating will be boring old satin black. The added advantage is that the powder coater has a gun loaded with it almost permanently - so it'll get turned around quickly. I did see some pics of a frame done in matt grey and it looked lovely. Perhaps I'll inquire...
markjackson
Registered user
Colin Chapman was always a fan of light grey for frames, as it makes crack-spotting easier, but satin black does look lovely.
Canuck
Registered user
Richie Moore has a +10 gear set for the transmissions. Might want to ask him if you haven't already. I know it changes more than the 5th gear but more than that I can't remember the specifics.
Meanwhile ..... in the South East of England .......
The Dogbytes bodywork / tank are now in primer
The Dogbytes bodywork / tank are now in primer
Richie has rebuilt a gearbox for me. From memory, I think it has a higher 2nd/3rd to give us a closer set of ratios. There are so many ways of going about this and I think I really need to see if there is a problem before I set about solving one! I think I've just convinced myself I've got one. Having said that, I think Rob Farmer has a similar motor/final drive ratios and I seem to remember him saying it's too low.
Colin Chapman was always a fan of light grey for frames, as it makes crack-spotting easier, but satin black does look lovely.
Light grey does appeal - but not enough to to slow the current meteoric progress in favour of!
Meanwhile ..... in the South East of England .......
The Dogbytes bodywork / tank are now in primer
Excellent! Can't wait to see the finished (or even unfinished!) product.
The powder-coater is currently unavailable, if he doesn't answer his phone soon, I'll be looking for another - or painting it all!
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Feck, never thought of that ( have a farm jack as well ) ... soft lad here bought the tool !!
This particular sash cramp is a little cheap and nasty - it was flexing a bit, but a decent one could easily be adapted to be perfectly usable for driveshafts, shock absorbers, etc.
