Drive shaft/final drive noise

[Joepi5]

Hello!

Please see and listen to the video below.
Don't mind the brake disc noise (pushed the pistons back in), the main event is the knocking noise. R1200GS placed on the center stand, rotating the rear wheel with my hand.
Brand new OEM driveshaft, R nine T Final drive with low mileage. Both gaiters replaced when I installed this new driveshaft, I took of the complete swingarm for the install.

After I installed everything it was quiet. Now after 800 miles something is making a knocking sound, no resistance is noticeable. Riding is pretty smooth. No play measurable at the rear wheel. it's louder after a ride when everything is warm.

One more remark, in one rotation of the rear wheel the knock happens about 6 times, leads me to believe a yoke is touching some where. 1 wheel rotation is 2.9 shaft rotations, 2 yokes pass on each rotation

Any ideas what is causing this? Is this normal as in do more people experience this?

This is the second driveshaft I have tried, I returned my motor-works rebuildable one because of this. It had the same symptoms.

 

[botus]

doesn't sound quite what I'd expect but - gearbox cush drive inside the box - known failure £300+ for the part, bike apart and box in bits to fit?

pop the shaft out and spin the wheel

 

[Joepi5]

doesn't sound quite what I'd expect but - gearbox cush drive inside the box - known failure £300+ for the part, bike apart and box in bits to fit?

pop the shaft out and spin the wheel

Could that also cause some strange vibration/rocking at a certain speed and gear? Could this cause serious problems down the line, or is it just annoying?

Although it doesn't sound like its near the gearbox end of the shaft.

 

[Mr Bean]

Having had one snap, and sliding between lanes if the M25, I'd get it checked out. Not a pleasant experience...

 

[Joepi5]

Having had one snap, and sliding between lanes if the M25, I'd get it checked out. Not a pleasant experience...

Will give a dealer a ring tomorrow, is there any way to further diagnose this without tearing it all apart?

 

[Miserable Git]

I was under the impression that the drive shaft joints make contact with each other when on the centre stand due to the steep angle. If you push the bike along does it still do it?

 

[Joepi5]

I was under the impression that the drive shaft joints make contact with each other when on the centre stand due to the steep angle. If you push the bike along does it still do it?

Can't really hear it in that way. Rolling along wheels in the ground. This doesn't explain why it didn't do this right after assembling it together. I could try to ratchet strap the swingarm to change the angle of it.

 

[botus]

if you changed the bevel and changed the cardan shaft and there is no strange crash damage or build issues its got to be something else

the bevel will clatter around running it up on the centre stand and its not a great thing to do - but it should never make that consistent racket in your video...

if the "drive shaft" in the link below - is actually the gearbox input shaft - if the cush drive had failed part 3 and 4 brings a fixed amount of slop on the shaft you shouldn't have - the gear would amplify the slop where 1st will give x amount of play and each longer gear means the slop grows more and more - if that’s happening on yours, I suspect that's the defect u r facing... If the unit was normal there would only be light rotary play in all gears - my guess when damaged the cush drive brings 4" inches of slop in first, moving to 9" in sixth

this is a 2007 as I didn't pick up what yours is - but the issue cropped up a number of times 2006 2008 and 2009 I believe

Drive Shaft Diagram for BMW K25 (R 1200 GS) R 1200 GS 04 (0307,0317) (2006) Catalog | RealOEM.com

BMW parts K25 (R 1200 GS) R 1200 GS 04 (0307,0317) Drive Shaft

www.realoem.com

 

[Joepi5]

if you changed the bevel and changed the cardan shaft and there is no strange crash damage or build issues its got to be something else

the bevel will clatter around running it up on the centre stand and its not a great thing to do - but it should never make that consistent racket in your video...

if the "drive shaft" in the link below - is actually the gearbox input shaft - if the cush drive had failed part 3 and 4 brings a fixed amount of slop on the shaft you shouldn't have - the gear would amplify the slop where 1st will give x amount of play and each longer gear means the slop grows more and more - if that’s happening on yours, I suspect that's the defect u r facing... If the unit was normal there would only be light rotary play in all gears - my guess when damaged the cush drive brings 4" inches of slop in first, moving to 9" in sixth

this is a 2007 as I didn't pick up what yours is - but the issue cropped up a number of times 2006 2008 and 2009 I believe

Drive Shaft Diagram for BMW K25 (R 1200 GS) R 1200 GS 04 (0307,0317) (2006) Catalog | RealOEM.com

BMW parts K25 (R 1200 GS) R 1200 GS 04 (0307,0317) Drive Shaft

www.realoem.com

Thanks for this comprehensive reply! My bike is an early DOHC/Camhead model. Originally had the non vented FD, so build between 09/2009 and 04/2010 (I believe). It currently has 40k miles on it.

The slop does grow with each gear. Measured at the wheel I get 65mm (2.55") of slop in first and 85mm (3.35") of slop in sixth. So while there is an increase in slop it's nowhere near 4" in first and even further away from 9" in sixth.

I will also drain the gearbox oil coming weekend and look for debris, it's been in for about 1400 miles. When I replaced it last time I installed a drain plug with a magnet, because the one that came with my bike didn't have one like that.

 

[Pukmeister]

The driveshaft uses hardy-spicer type UJ's rather than ball bearings in a cage to transmit drive so you will hear and feel some noise as it is not a "constant velocity" joint so some "whip" happens as the joint angle changes and the knuckle accelerates and decelerates as it turns.

It shouldn't be as loud as what your video shows, I would guess at wear in the UJ knuckles/joints, best get it checked for wear along the with final drive bearings.

Another option could be to jack up the swingarm from beneath with a block of softwood until the axis is horizontal then repeat the turning/feeling for noise with the shaft running in a smoother angle and less articulation like that seen when actually riding normally?

 

[Joepi5]

The driveshaft uses hardy-spicer type UJ's rather than ball bearings in a cage to transmit drive so you will hear and feel some noise as it is not a "constant velocity" joint so some "whip" happens as the joint angle changes and the knuckle accelerates and decelerates as it turns.

It shouldn't be as loud as what your video shows, I would guess at wear in the UJ knuckles/joints, best get it checked for wear along the with final drive bearings.

Another option could be to jack up the swingarm from beneath with a block of softwood until the axis is horizontal then repeat the turning/feeling for noise with the shaft running in a smoother angle and less articulation like that seen when actually riding normally?

Jacking it up nearly caused me to drop it , center stand right side wasn't touching the ground anymore. Achieved the same by ratchet strapping the FD (around the opening where the tension bar mounts) to the frame directly above it.

When the swing arm is near vertical the knocking stops. But what I still don't understand is why it didn't do this right after installing the new driveshaft (800 miles back).

Could it be that my rebuild shocks with stiffer springs cause the bike to have not enough sag? Which causes the shaft angle to be too steep and therefore increase wear/damage the UJ's?

 

[Flintlock]

Could it be possible that the noise is caused by the tyre making contact with something, ie rear hugger?

 

[botus]

Thanks for this comprehensive reply! My bike is an early DOHC/Camhead model. Originally had the non vented FD, so build between 09/2009 and 04/2010 (I believe). It currently has 40k miles on it.

The slop does grow with each gear. Measured at the wheel I get 65mm (2.55") of slop in first and 85mm (3.35") of slop in sixth. So while there is an increase in slop it's nowhere near 4" in first and even further away from 9" in sixth.

I will also drain the gearbox oil coming weekend and look for debris, it's been in for about 1400 miles. When I replaced it last time I installed a drain plug with a magnet, because the one that came with my bike didn't have one like that.

there's a knowledgeable bod on here that had to have the input shaft bit done - he often posts photos of the failed bit - but search is letting me down finding them - the slop you state I'd suggest seems closer to an unbroken one - mine is shocking it must be gone (but my noise is more a nasty clattering rumble) I hoped it was just the bevel - that gave up at 38k miles with a wheel bearing collapsing. pulled the cardan shaft and its like new, no slop, no notches or stickiness on the joints and I fitted a RnineT scrambler bevel, but the noise on the centre stand never changed even a tiny little bit - if I remember I'll pop the wheel on my other 2011 GSA and see how bad the slop is

oh and the other fun it the gearbox fluid usually comes out looking like new...

of course unless rich / mad and or need a new clutch - you don't want to pull that apart unless you know it really needs it

this post had what I'd day is rough road bevel chatter - (not a million miles from what you had) - if you get it on smooth roads with steady throttle opening investigate - if only on the centre stand / bad road surfaces on, on off throttle - it might be normal

in the thread I wrongly say further on the gearbox cush drive (I think BMW call it a damper) is on the output shaft - I was corrected by another contributor in one post somewhere

Thread '1200GS (K25, 2012): noisy final drive on cobblestones - or what?'

Aug 1, 2025

More or less from the beginning (2023), I noticed a nasty thunky sound from the back. Apparently it became louder over the last 10000 km.
It can best be reproduced on a cobbled road, or roadside grass. Here's the link to a short movie:

.

My airhead paralever (ok, it's HPN, regarding the power train it's more a 1150GS) is much quieter. Is this the technical progress...?

The bearings are tight and the wheel's not wobbling. According to an experienced shop floor master, who took a test ride on appropriate road surface, it's nothing alarming from the drive shaft or final...

• Zeebulon

 

[Pukmeister]

The gearbox cush drive is on the input shaft.

A new shaft is £500, or at least it was the last time I replaced one.

 

[Joepi5]

there's a knowledgeable bod on here that had to have the input shaft bit done - he often posts photos of the failed bit - but search is letting me down finding them - the slop you state I'd suggest seems closer to an unbroken one - mine is shocking it must be gone (but my noise is more a nasty clattering rumble) I hoped it was just the bevel - that gave up at 38k miles with a wheel bearing collapsing. pulled the cardan shaft and its like new, no slop, no notches or stickiness on the joints and I fitted a RnineT scrambler bevel, but the noise on the centre stand never changed even a tiny little bit - if I remember I'll pop the wheel on my other 2011 GSA and see how bad the slop is

oh and the other fun it the gearbox fluid usually comes out looking like new...

of course unless rich / mad and or need a new clutch - you don't want to pull that apart unless you know it really needs it

this post had what I'd day is rough road bevel chatter - (not a million miles from what you had) - if you get it on smooth roads with steady throttle opening investigate - if only on the centre stand / bad road surfaces on, on off throttle - it might be normal

in the thread I wrongly say further on the gearbox cush drive (I think BMW call it a damper) is on the output shaft - I was corrected by another contributor in one post somewhere

Thread '1200GS (K25, 2012): noisy final drive on cobblestones - or what?'

Aug 1, 2025

More or less from the beginning (2023), I noticed a nasty thunky sound from the back. Apparently it became louder over the last 10000 km.
It can best be reproduced on a cobbled road, or roadside grass. Here's the link to a short movie:

.

My airhead paralever (ok, it's HPN, regarding the power train it's more a 1150GS) is much quieter. Is this the technical progress...?

The bearings are tight and the wheel's not wobbling. According to an experienced shop floor master, who took a test ride on appropriate road surface, it's nothing alarming from the drive shaft or final...

• Zeebulon

Tried the same thing as the person did in the last video in the thread.

I'm to make an appointment at a dealer to have it checked out by them as well.

 

[Santa-2512]

if its out of warranty

Mikeyboy - Overland and classic is your best shout

 

[Joepi5]

if its out of warranty

Mikeyboy - Overland and classic is your best shout

But is it the actual input damper? I'm not located in the UK, so Mikeyboy isn't the easiest option for me.

 

[botus]

well that's a surprise

2011 GSA 10 k miles 2" in 1st about 3" in 6th
2007 GS with 2021 5k mile scrambler bevel about 1" in 1st and 2" in 6th - so something very different from earlier - but still sounds like death on the stand - with each longer gear becoming more and more shocking - hit 40 mph on the stand and neighbours come out of house to see why the world ended

 

[Santa-2512]

To eliminate the rear hub, diconnect / remove the drive shaft and spin the wheel

if you get clonking = hub

Examine the tube the shaft runs in, look for contact between the shaft UJ and the tube wall

is your wheel centred, on the hub correctly? because there is a big amount of pad / disc contact noise

 

[Joepi5]

To eliminate the rear hub, diconnect / remove the drive shaft and spin the wheel

if you get clonking = hub

Examine the tube the shaft runs in, look for contact between the shaft UJ and the tube wall

is your wheel centred, on the hub correctly? because there is a big amount of pad / disc contact noise

Pressed the brake pistons in, pads and free to move if I hold them there is no brake disc drag noise. With pistons in operating position the dragging is what you expect, slight noise all around.

Will drop the unit coming weekend. Just came back from a ride on the GS, everything feels correct and sounds normal when riding. Nothing gets hot from rubbing and fuel consumption is really good 22 km/l or something like that.