Drive shaft FUBA.

Skudd

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2010 bike on a 2007 frame (was a class N) That was 4 years ago and all has been fine, until yesterday. Over the last few days on my commute bike felt like the "chain" needed adjusting. I know its a shaft drive, but that's the only way I can explain the feeling. On the the way to work felt a rumble through the pegs, only a 10 mile trip. On the way home I was slightly enthusiastic coming away from the lights and after the first 10 yards, no drive and just a crunchy noise. Usual clutch in and coast to the side of the road, Tried to move off, but no propulsion and a rattle from the top end of the shaft/swing arm.

I haven't taken things apart yet, but I'm guessing i@ts the drive shaft, youtube makes it look a simple enough job. The issue will be sourcing the shaft (will change the rubber boots while I'm at it) I'm presuming by the age of the bike it's a K25 model. I've been through ebay and I didn't realise these things were made of pure gold encrusted with 22 carrot diamonds.
Are there any other models that fit and does anyone know of good bike breakers that could supply the parts at a price that doesn't include lubricating around the buttocks?

And is it as easy as youtube says it is?
 
Mikeyboy might be able to rebuild the shaft. Will always try and assist or point you in the right direction. Do a quick search on here for is number. Did my bevel drive a while ago.
 
I haven't taken things apart yet, but I'm guessing i@ts the drive shaft, youtube makes it look a simple enough job. The issue will be sourcing the shaft (will change the rubber boots while I'm at it) I'm presuming by the age of the bike it's a K25 model. I've been through ebay and I didn't realise these things were made of pure gold encrusted with 22 carrot diamonds.
Click to expand...

Mine snapped a few years ago. My GS is a K25.
There is aftermarket ones, but the price difference doesn't justify it.

I had to replace the boot and the swing arm too as the broken shaft rotating freely in there made some damage and, if I remember correctly, the entire thing set me back about 700 quid. I think the shaft is about 500ish new. We got the rest used from Motorworks.
 
If you check www.realoem.com you can see what models share the spare parts you want and then maybe source them cheaply on ebay.
However I would first remove the drive shaft to check that the loss of drive is because of that. The problem could possibly be because of stripped splines on your clutch disc, if you are lucky, or on the gearbox output shaft if not!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsS8y6YlbkM

The above video clip gives a good demonstration. You don't need a slide hammer to remove the right hand pivot pin though. It is very lowly torqued and you can easily remove it by hand. Use one of the 3 outer bolts to pull the pin from the middle hole!
 
The two spindles are well and truly welded in. probably due to corrosion. Really struggling to get them out. Got the left out up to where the thread stops but no further and the right one just budges about a quarter of an inch and that's it. Crow bars and scaffolding pipe still haven't budged it. Loads of penetrating oil has been used in the hope of some sort of help.
I've had the bike 2 years, but the crud and gunk in there looks like 10 years worth.

What seemed to be an easy job turns out to be a mother of one.
 
I meant heat gun, you need heat to melt the locktite...
 
Skudd said:
I think it's the rust and seized within the bearing. It may be a sacrificial drilling soon.
Click to expand...

Before you break out the heavy guns, post some pictures of where you are and what your proposing

It may be there is a knack, or method to removing what you want, without going Rambo , and running the risk of damaging other components
 
waggy said:
Mikeyboy might be able to rebuild the shaft. Will always try and assist or point you in the right direction. Do a quick search on here for is number. Did my bevel drive a while ago.
Click to expand...

In my experience of 1200 drive shafts and reading the description It’ll be fecked beyond repair. The lugs will be torn open/apart.
 
Well finally got the rear arm off and shaft off. Oh my Lord!!!!. Too embarrassed to show pictures. Had to drill out the right hand side pinion, used the a 19mm drill bit to take the thing out, no sign of the bearing other than buts in the swing arm, Left hand one cam out with a long bar pushed from the other side, bearing was evident, but I think Time Team and Baldrick would be more interested. There was a 10 mm split and a 4 mm split in the boot near the gearbox, The crud and gunk in the swing arm was unbelievable.

Well a lesson learnt regarding shaft drives and lube. I think at least a six month check and lube is needed and now I know how to do it the job should only take a few mugs of tea.

Just sourcing parts now and hopefully have it all back together in the next few days.
 
Skudd said:
Which would you recommend?
Click to expand...

When I needed some back in the day, the wide recommendation seemed to be Honda’s Moly 60 - I ordered mine from local Honda dealer. Seems it might be superseded now, but presumably its replacement will be much of a muchness.
 
Agree, Honda moly is the boss but there are other high moly content greases out there. I personally use Honda Moly on all my shaft drive bikes


Sent from out there somewhere
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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