Drive train knocking

[Sporall]

Yesterday I got home from a ride, parked the bike on the drive as normal.
After a few minutes I wheeled it into the garage and heard this regular knocking kind of noise in both forward and backwards direction. I put the bike up on the main stand and left it alone for an hour or so.

Came back to it and checked while up on the stand and found it to be quiet when the wheel was turned in a forward direction but still very present when turned in a reverse direction.

Later in the evening I wheeled it out onto the driveway and it was barely audible in either direction. By this time the bike had stood for a few hours, so it seems to be affected by the temperature.

Videos here:

Engine hot, forwards

Cooled for around an hour, reverse

It sounds like it's coming from where the shaft meets the gearbox but of course it could resonate through casings etc but you can feel it in your hand.

Anyone else experienced anything like this?

Bike is covered by a used warranty so they'll be hearing from me tomorrow but I wanted to see what I could learn ahead of that.

 

[stever1]

If I had to make an educated guess, I would say it’s the U/J on the drive shaft.

 

[Sporall]

If I had to make an educated guess, I would say it’s the U/J on the drive shaft.

Thanks for your thoughts. I noticed that it happens 3 times per wheel revolution and was thinking perhaps that 3:1 ratio is involved somewhere around the affected parts.

 

[stever1]

Thanks for your thoughts. I noticed that it happens 3 times per wheel revolution and was thinking perhaps that 3:1 ratio is involved somewhere around the affected parts.

It’s a long shot but if the final drive ratio is about 3:1 it could be the final drive in that case.

 

[Deleted account 250319001]

Id put money on that being the UJ ......

 

[leadfarmer]

Id put money on that being the UJ ......

Yep

 

[squibb34]

You don't mention mileage? Running or turning over any shaft drive bike on the main stand is not to be recommended, as the shaft has to operate at an unnatural angle - does it actually make any noise in normal use or does the UJ centre itself under power?

The BMW way, if a UJ is failing, is to replace the driveshaft, an expensive exercise; the UJ bearing caps are staked in place, rather than using circlips.

Whilst I see you have warranty, this pictorial walkthrough gives you an idea what is involved .......... https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/2010-1200gs-drive-shaft-u_joint-replacement-how-to.1444742/

 

[Deleted account 250319001]

Running or turning over any shaft drive bike on the main stand is not to be recommended, as the shaft has to operate at an unnatural angle ]

Not sure where you got that from.?
The GSAP is "re learnt" exactly like that.
And the shaft drive vibration test is also done the same.

 

[Sporall]

You don't mention mileage? Running or turning over any shaft drive bike on the main stand is not to be recommended, as the shaft has to operate at an unnatural angle - does it actually make any noise in normal use or does the UJ centre itself under power?

The BMW way, if a UJ is failing, is to replace the driveshaft, an expensive exercise; the UJ bearing caps are staked in place, rather than using circlips.

Whilst I see you have warranty, this pictorial walkthrough gives you an idea what is involved .......... https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/2010-1200gs-drive-shaft-u_joint-replacement-how-to.1444742/

Mileage is around 18k, serviced and driveshaft recall done by Bahnstormer Alton a few weeks ago. I've not run the bike on the main stand and this was noticed first by wheeling the bike into the garage, so manifesting under completely normal circumstances

 

[stever1]

You don't mention mileage? Running or turning over any shaft drive bike on the main stand is not to be recommended, as the shaft has to operate at an unnatural angle - does it actually make any noise in normal use or does the UJ centre itself under power?

The BMW way, if a UJ is failing, is to replace the driveshaft, an expensive exercise; the UJ bearing caps are staked in place, rather than using circlips.

Whilst I see you have warranty, this pictorial walkthrough gives you an idea what is involved .......... https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/2010-1200gs-drive-shaft-u_joint-replacement-how-to.1444742/

don’t know where you got the idea about the drive shaft being at an unnatural angle. You’ll find it’s all been worked out by BMW engineers . In fact when the bike is on the main stand with the engine running, the rear wheel is likely to rotate. Even in neutral.

 

[squibb34]

don’t know where you got the idea about the drive shaft being at an unnatural angle. You’ll find it’s all been worked out by BMW engineers . In fact when the bike is on the main stand with the engine running, the rear wheel is likely to rotate. Even in neutral.

Experience of BMW, Guzzi, Yamaha shaft drive bikes over 50 years; anything with significant suspension sag .......... admittedly not the current crop 1200/1250GS.

I always understood that there is nothing actually wrong with turning the wheel manually, although not much point, but certainly not running it through the gears as it stresses the UJ. Surely just wheeling the bike along in neutral should tell you all you need to know. If a UJ is even slightly worn or simply off centre, the stresses are immense & it will click angrily.

Anyway, sounds like the OP has a warranty issue, surprising at 18k. I can't see how the recall would have affected things, but let's hear what Bahnstormer have to say.

 

[Deleted account 250319001]

Experience of BMW, Guzzi, Yamaha shaft drive bikes over 50 years; anything with significant suspension sag .......... admittedly not the current crop 1200/1250GS.

but certainly not running it through the gears as it stresses the UJ. Surely just wheeling the bike along in neutral should tell you all you need to know. If a UJ is even slightly worn or simply off centre, the stresses are immense & it will click angrily.

I can only speak of BMW, My 1150GS (1999) was no different.
BMW run the bikes in gear to re learn the GSAP. In EVERY GEAR, Its perfectly fine. And Normal.

 

[CPJS]

I can only speak of BMW, My 1150GS (1999) was no different.
BMW run the bikes in gear to re learn the GSAP. In EVERY GEAR, Its perfectly fine. And Normal.

This, of course.
What do you think happens when offroad, the rear suspension will be fully unloaded often.

 

[squibb34]

I can only speak of BMW, My 1150GS (1999) was no different.
BMW run the bikes in gear to re learn the GSAP. In EVERY GEAR, Its perfectly fine. And Normal.

You guys are adamant that it's OK - I'm fine with that. Let's get back to the OPs subject.

 

[Deleted account 250319001]

Because it is OK. And you're suggesting it isn't.
Ukgser classic scaremongering!

 

[squibb34]

Because it is OK. And you're suggesting it isn't.
Ukgser classic scaremongering!

Are you obsessed fella? or just trying to be annoying.

My bad, I get it; the GS is different. My received wisdom of many years is out of date.

 

[Deleted account 250319001]

Are you obsessed fella? or just trying to be annoying.

I didn't post the incorrect information on a forum? You did. And I've reacted to it. May I suggest, If you are annoyed or irritated by ths, then .....
A) Don't post rubbish
B) Research Before posting rubbish.

 

[Flipfly]

It may sound silly, but if you have a mudsling copy fitted, check it isn’t touching your tyre.

I had to b8n mine for this reason.

 

[Sporall]

It may sound silly, but if you have a mudsling copy fitted, check it isn’t touching your tyre.

I had to b8n mine for this reason.

A fair suggestion
I do have one, it's a genuine one. When I was turning the wheel I didn't notice anything in the tyre that would foul anything but I will have another look.

 

[bosnjo]

I have genuine mudsling that was at one pint touching the swingarm. Had to cut off just a little piece of it, no big deal. But it took me a long time to find out the problem. Discovered it by the mark left on the mudsling.
It is easy to rule out the mudsling. Remove it and test the bike without it for a few days.