drive train shock absorber

birdseye

Registered user
Joined
Oct 18, 2004
Messages
1,224
Reaction score
0
Location
usk
Back on a GS after a 4 year lay off, I'm finding my gear changes jerky. That could well be my fault, in fract probably is my fault. But I have previously had a bike which had shock absorbing rubber buffers in the drive train so I am wondering if the GS has them and if in my case they are knackered.

So does the GS have any rubber inserts to absord drive train shocks or is it simply steel gears , shafts etc between the wheel and the crankshaft?
 
the engine and chassis are bolted together, so no rubber dampening.The poor gear shift maybe a worn box or linkage but not likely.I'd say change the gearbox oil, that normally improves things a bit.
 
i would be dropping the fd down and checking the universal joints on the driveshaft,quick and easy to do.
 
There is a shock absorber in the transmission, its a face cam device built onto the output shaft within the gearbox. Its unlikely to give a problem, its failure would be much more serious than poor gear changing.
As suggested a good lube of the change lever assembly and gearbox oil change to put your mind at ease.
 
Start Here: a good lube of the change lever assembly

Easy spray the links and bushes with wd40 while wiggling (the linkages)...

If improvement, take apart for cleaning and greasing.
 
I found the GS drivetrain harsh compared to a jap four cyl with wet clutch, chain and Cush drive. It needs a more delicate touch to ride smoothly, a blip on downshifts helps as does a well lubricated gearshift lever bushing which is a known problem area for seizing up and causing poor gear shifting as already stated.
 
gear mechanism is fine - its an issue of the coordination of throttle and clutch plus the slop in the drive train whuich is maybe 3 inches at the wheel rim. I reckon the bike that I had with rubber inserts in the shaft drive was an st1100. do you really mean that the beemer is a crude metal to metal contact all along the driuve train?
 
Far from it, its in a oil lubricated enclosure, the gear box.

B0006187.png


Item 1 is the box output shaft with the shock absorber. The two cams are pushed against each other by a strong spring. Its a very good way of taking shock off a drive. Old Brit bikes had these on the end of the crank and the primary drive sprocket, much better than a soggy rubber block.
 
I used to ride a Yamaha Diversion 900 which does have cush drive rubbers in the back wheel. But mismatch the revs on gearshift and it would really crash.

The issue is usually trying kick the next gear up a bit too soon when engine revs are too high. But shift too slowly is even worse. Downshift is much better with a throttle blip.

Clutchless shifts work well.
Going up - gently preload gear lever quickly dip throttle down and back to the same point. This momentarily unloads the transmission & next gear slots in.

Going down while decelerating on closed throttle gently press on gear lever to preload momentarily open & shut throttle. Transmission unloads & gear slots in. This only works on a closed throttle. Normally a blip is needed to down shift.
 


Back
Top Bottom