Dublin to Ushuaia

[Celtic Adventurer]

Well guys its been awhile do decided it was time for a bit of an update! Thanks to everyone who has writing to me and following the site



I am now in COlombia it it really rocks! Taking up from where I left off last time, after Nicaragua i headed into COsta Rica, actually I was a little disapointed, it was not what I was expecting, and quickly made my way to Panama, I did run into an argentine guy called Claudio who was travelling with his 03 GOldwing to Ushuaia! Thought he was a little crazy, but we shortened the road to Panama city, and went seperate ways in Bogota,

The two bikes at the Panama canal.

I wanted to put the bike on the lock gate but they wouldnt let me... so you have to settle for a ship instead.

Then there was the aircargo to Bogota!

Road to Bucamaranga

Hit a huge pothole and dented the rim!

But after a quick disasemble and a $10 to a local cycle shop it was good as new and is now back together.



Scenery here is great!

then met some locals who wanted to introduce me to some girls and a hotel room ... who do cosas muy malas!! mmm wonder what that was!

did some climbing and even learned to dive on the caribbean coast.

But everyone here wants to look at the bike, this was the 3rd stop in the space of and hour on the way to Medellin!

But all is class, going to spend a few more days here! People in Colombia are great! really nice country, so anyone considering coming dont miss it.

 

[(RIP) petcul]

Keep them coming and brighten up our winter months

 

[Celtic Adventurer]

Here is the next update. Just finished in Colombia so as requested some more pictures!!

Me and Simon {sound English bloke i met in Medellin) in Southern Colombia

Crossing rivers

Last night on the Caribbean
Stopped at the famous Ruta40 BMW dealership in Medellin. These guys were awesome, real friendly so say hi for me if you are passing this way.

Also great store for getting stuff done is Moto Angel who don’t charge for labour. Only parts.

Moto Angel where Simon had his Headbearing tightened for free..

We also had stickers with the website address made in Medellin. This guy charged 20 pounds for 500 stickers, which took him all day to make. Note the old school process.

The roads in Colombia are Amazing this is just one of the many stunning vistas along the road to Salento from Medellin

Of course for Halloween we had to have a drink or two. This is LaCasa night club.. so many fake tits its was class! Have to resist touching them. Simon and I Halloween

Entered Ecuador Yesterday


Just so you dont get too jealous its cold here also!!

 

[(RIP) petcul]

Jealous, what, me jealous? Nah. Just forty shades of green.

Great stuff

 

[Celtic Adventurer]

From Quito onward.. to My Accident!

Following on from Quito we made our way over the mountains along dirt roads to the Amazon basin Ecuador part. The roads were pretty rough.

Simon even lost his Exhaust

The same day the skys opened and we got soaked! Here we stopped for lunch in Tena to get out of the rain but it continued for most of the day. Got absolutely soaked

After awhile exploring the jungle paths where i seem to have precious little pics checking out some monkeys etc we decided a camp would be a good idea. We stopped at an airfield and asked security if we could stay. Figuring guys with guns would be good protection for us also. But they wouldn’t let us Stay. After some conversation an Indian guy who was beside them said we could stay under his house!
So we went over and pitched the mosquito nets! And put up with some usual questions about the bike, size, speed, cost, and the they just sat there and watched us! It was weird. Like talking to a brick wall!!

So once we decided to go to bed at the very late time of 7 pm!! Wow!! The Indian guy disappeared. I awoke on the 9th of November (my birthday) to the radio with what sounded like a Spanish version of Graham Norton.. this was accompanied by a bloody cockrel who wouldn’t shut up! I was going to ring its neck but I was thinking the Indians around us might not like that very much.
So at first light we got up , packed bikes and headed off for Banos.

And just after we saw the most hairy pig in the world! We called him Afro pig!

And I had my first fall in months!! Welcome to being 27! Must be the old age! But no serious damage.. just pride. We made it to Banos in one piece, and spent the rest of the day relaxing in the hot springs.. i guess thats where the town got its name.. Banos being Spanish for bath.
We spent the evening drinking in the local, where the funniest moment had to be when there were a bunch of fat chicks passing by trying to dance. Simon blurts out in English, “I hate it when fat chicks try to look sexy” ... problem was they spoke English!! Hahahaha their mates were outside hi fiving each other!!

On leaving Banos we had to take a slight detour . After speaking with locals the road on our map didn’t exist as it was wiped out in a Volcanic eruption 2 years ago. But we got on our way, and entered the heavens

Food was the usual affair..

With some inquisitive locals

Camp was a simple affair of two tents, a fire, some Bod Dylan and Arcade Fire on the iPod, along with Boiled rice and tuna! Staple food of any poor biker!

View in the morning was nice ! check out those mountains , kind of reminds me a little of Ireland

On our arrival it was change over time to TKC 80s to cope with the up coming dirt! Only it was Sunday so all the llanterias were closed so had to do it myself!!

Road to the border was class!! I am so glad we ignored everyone advice to go to Macara, and instead opted for the little used La Bolsa, (not even on my map crossing near Zumba directly south of Loja)

Proof that even KLRs end up in the ditch at times!

There were a few Army checkpoints down here, this was the final one, where we thought the guys were friends of MC Hammer

When we finally arrived at the border the customs official was twisted drunk, and insisted we join him for a beer.. or four!

It really was quiet funny , then it was over to Peru... as the sign says below

This side was a little more slow. First the girl thought my passport was fake, then the guy takes an hour to fill out the wrong form for the bike, then he finds the real one. But by now a huge thunder storm had come in and we were going no where! It was getting dark and the only road out was bad dirt! Asking around for a place to came, I jokingly asked if we could stay in the office! But the answer was yes!! So that shack behind the Peru sign is where we spent out first night in Peru

Next day was more of the same, with the roads made worse by the rain overnight, we even had to drive up over a landslide or two.
This is one of the better sections

There were also some very powerful rivers going down the valley, swelled from the night before!

In the end we reached the town of Pedro Ruiz , where we were back to Tarmac. But first thing we did was check all the bolts to make sure all was still secure, as the last section of the road, was really corrugated, and was littered with the remains of an old tarmac surface from about 20 years ago!
On the Advice of Brennan we went to see Gocta Falls, which was “discovered” by some German dude about 5 years ago. It has been measured at 771 meters making it the third highest in the world, Its not too far from Chachapoyas for anyone interested.

Its a 2 hour walk into the base from the nearest village where we nearly stepped on some snakes having it off in the middle of the path.. don’t think they were impressed with us!
Actually it was very Indiana Jones like .. the whole experience.
Next day we had planned a two day trip around dirt roads linking to Tingo Maria and then down to Cusco eventually, but it was near Moyobamba that my bike spun out on a corner and then ended up in the ditch with me following. We did get it started again, but decided to limp back to Lima for repairs. When we stopped for gas the EWS sensor died. So now no bike!
After some effort we located a pickup truck who agreed to take the bike and me to Jaen (the nearest big town) for $30. We got a hostal and next day located the local bus company. They had a truck going to Lima, so once the fuel was emptied and the bike was lifted into the back of a truck! (5 guys to lift to shoulder height! ) I had paid the $50 for bike and $30 for me I said goodbye. I had to wait another day, for a bus, but am now in Lima resting up waiting for parts!
More pics to follow of the repairs!! and a lesson that Knobblies are not good for taking corners like Casey Stoner!

 

[(RIP) petcul]

happy birthday (late).

You mean you've only had 1 fall?

 

[Celtic Adventurer]

happy birthday (late).

You mean you've only had 1 fall?

Thanks!!

nah more than one, but only one in ages, then another two days ago which destoryed the EWS sensor around the keys! just got to Lima today ! and awaiting a new sensor from the US!

 

[Celtic Adventurer]

Accident pics

Hey guys, as promised a few pics. Coming out of the corner at 50mph and the bike decides it doesnt want to lean anymore... So instead I am on my ass following it along the ground throught the corner.. Next think I remember is hitting the bike and coming to a rather abrupt stop. Straight to my feet in an attempt to pick the machine up! amazing what adreniline does to ye.

So just after geting it upright

Close up of the new racing, slicked back front.. maybe a little agricultural

Pickup truck bringing it to Jaen



While i frantically tried to call people and get someone to do something instead of just look and ask stupid questions at the side of the road. For example How big is the engine... how fast does it go.. Ans: f**k off! its not going anywhere now.. help me push. Or get me a new EWS sensor..



Simon rode off to the next town and later came back with the Cavalery.. Ie guy with Toyota pickup and a few locals to get it in! And then we were off to Jaen, shithole big town in Northern Peru.



From here we setup accident HQ and got stuff moving. Truck to Lima was secured, and following that , my bus ticket.

In the Garage in Lima.. looking a bit cleaner. Work begins tomorrow.



So now i am waiting here in Lima for a sensor. BMW Miami took payment today so hopefully wont be long. THe guys in the shop are supposed to straighten and weld some of the metal bits tomorrow.



Kev

 

[(RIP) petcul]

Anything Ewan MacGregor can do you can do better

To explain, the last episode of the Long Way Down treated us to EMG coming off in moderately spectacular fashion.

Hope the bike is repaired quickly and you are back on the road.

Did you have a sensor guard? Worth their weight in gold. Yours is the third one I know of coming to a sticky end - two by accident, one was eaten by a DOG

Hope you are ok. Keep well.

 

[Celtic Adventurer]

Hey Guys quick update!! I am just back from the garage
Got the parts this evening after hassling the DHL girl constantly for the last 3 days, she is nice though and arranged for the guy to skip it up the queue a bit, very shady, had to meet him outside KFC.. van pulls up, me with my collar up , hand over the cash for tax, and he gives me my package!!
So it was straight down to Tators (honda dealer here) , but changing the piece is not so easy, had to completely remove the headstock, then drill out two bolts. (BMW anti theft.... stop people getting at the ingnition ) and then get two new bolts put it back together!
But it started first time!!!!!
Only problem was the clutch cable was snapped off near the handle bars when it was being towed, .... grrr but Mr Tator assures me that will be fixed by 10 am tomorrow.!! then i am on the road again!!!

PS anyone want tips on Lima.??? I know it inside out now! right down to where to get second hand bike parts.. maybe not so legal but dirt cheap

 

[Dave56]

Hi Holy Man, blowing a gale & p*****g down with rain here, brand new bike not been out of the garage for weeks, but your brilliant write-ups of your South American exploits help me forget the joys of December in the UK

Hope your soon back on the road, & I look forward to reading of your further adventures

 

[Celtic Adventurer]

Hi Holy Man, blowing a gale & p*****g down with rain here, brand new bike not been out of the garage for weeks, but your brilliant write-ups of your South American exploits help me forget the joys of December in the UK

Hope your soon back on the road, & I look forward to reading of your further adventures

Cheers Dave, got back on the road, and hit Nasca today. Place is one of the dryist places on earth, has to be seen to be believed. Certainly not P*****g down! Will be back in a few days with some more exploits i dont doubt. And of course more pics!

As for these EMG units!! all i can say is at least i destroyed it in STYLE! but your dog eating is pretty funny also!

 

[Celtic Adventurer]

Bolivia

Well lads and lassies. I have now made it to Salta Argentina, and have been a bit of a muppet accidentally deleting my Cusco and Machu Picchu pictures. But I did get some great ones of Bolivia to make up for it.
After leaving Lima, I arrived in Nasca in the evening, and next day arranged to fly over the lines.

In the evening I visited a cemetery where some pre Incas were buried. The dry sand turned them to mummies

I even found the original Bob Marley

So after all the excitement of flying it was time to set off on the bike again in the direction of Cusco. This is a long long ride!! 11 hours to be exact. But some of the views are just class. As you ride up on to the Altiplano it gets progressively colder, until the liners get up in at over 4000 meters.

And i met my first Llamas

On reaching Cusco I got myself suitable lodgings and promptly made my way to Norton Rats! The famous bar on the plaza. Jeff was in so we had a few drinks and talked bike stuff.
Now its insert missing Machu Picchu pictures as I was stupid enough to delete them..
So promptly on to Puno!! On my way the clutch line that had been fixed in Lima decided to fail. Turns out the guys in the garage had over tightened the piece that screws into the clutch lever, and it had torn the threads. Unphased, I found a mechanic, we got a new bolt, machined it to be a copy of the old one, (only wider) then cut new threads in the clutch leaver, used a file to widen the connection on the line, and with the addition of two o-rings for seals, had made a make shift unit which got me going again! Wow .. ingenuity. ..
Puno is not really up to much, so quickly set off for Copacabana in Bolivia. Was almost out of Peru, when she had one more bit of bad luck to test me. Near the border and idiot in his Mexico City Green Volkswagen Beetle decided to try and take me out. Smashed into the side of him, He ended up on his side in the ditch, all his windows broken and some huge dents in the side, I was lucky enough, bent left front brake disk, and some welds from lima re-broken.. but still drivable. The locals backed me up, and advised me to get the hell out of there before the police arrive!!.. so not one to wait around I split for the border.

Here I found a cool poster.

Sadly I missed the blessing of the bike in Copacabana, but atleast got a pic of the site. ..

La Paz was cool, I met some more Irish people at a hostel called the Wild Rover (bike friendly and owned by and Irish Man). But the real highlight was Uyuni and the dirt roads around it.
In Oruro my tempory O-rings failed, but had the great fortune of meeting a nice family who got me to a shop to get new ones, (10 this time) and also fed me!!
So off south! After Challapata the road turns to sand, dust and gravel! Absolutely class riding.

Most of the time was spent standing on the pegs, picking a line through the ruts, and trying to guess the correct way when you get to a junction with no signs! GPS might be useful here.
Set up camp for the night

Next day came across a few flamingos

And more dirt

Before eventually getting to Uyuni

I found a mini GS

The road out via Atocha to Tupiza was hard!! It was both exhilarating and frustrating, not to mention shatteringly tiring. There was loads of more sand, and gravel, mostly sand! And where the gravel was it was riddled with Corrugations.

But in the end i got there, and today I arrived in Argentina

Am now in Salta, having I think a well deserved rest!!

 

[(RIP) petcul]

Again great stuff.

Happy Christmas

 

[(RIP) philgunn]

Irish in Argentina

Happy Christmas and look after yourself while in Argentina you might keep a look out for some Irish Back packer that has gone missing there about a month ago .... Keep up the good work it's freezing in Ireland this evening

here is the Cutting from the Irish Indo last Saturday

Family step up search for Irish tourist missing in Argentina

Saturday December 15 2007

Dara de Faoite

A FRIEND and a relation of an Irishman missing in South America have travelled to Argentina to search for him.

Ronan Lawlor has not been heard from since the middle of November when he set out on a trek along the border of Argentina and Chile.

A rucksack belonging to the 28-year-old chemical engineer was found in a hostel in El Calafate in Argentina on Thursday.

Close friend Barney McCabe, who is due to arrive in Argentina this morning, told the Irish Independent the discovery of the rucksack is a "crucial piece of information".

"The rucksack narrows the focus of the search for Ronan down to a national park where he was due to make a three-day trek," Mr McCabe said.

"We now know the last place Ronan stayed and it's a great relief to his parents Oliver and Ethel that some physical evidence of his last known movements have been verified."

Ronan had failed to return to the hostel in El Calafate after crossing the border into the Torres del Paine National Park in Chile on November 18.

Mr McCabe (33) and Mr Lawlor's first cousin Grainne Lawlor (27) will head for the national park this weekend.

Torres del Paine is a spectacular 700-square-mile nature preserve that spans remote Argentine and Chilean Patagonia.

"We will be actively searching areas of Torres del Paine where we know Ronan would have been trekking," said Mr McCabe.

"We will also be funding local search teams in a bid to find Ronan."

In his last blog entry on November 17, Mr Lawlor, from Durrow in Co Laois, spoke of winning money in a casino which he used to fund nights out and the next leg of his trip.

The UCD graduate had quit his engineering job in Ballina in June to go travelling for eight months.

His first blog entry on August 4 before he left for South America said: "I'm really excited about what lies ahead. Hopefully I won't get killed or mugged before I get to post my first South American entry to this blog."

It is understood there has been no activity on his mobile phone or transactions on his credit card since November 22 or 23.

"Ronan was meticulous about staying in touch and spoke with his family at least once a week," said Ms Lawlor.

His parents and family friends have also set up a website 'Ronan Lawlor -- Missing Person' at www.ronanlawlor.org in both English and Spanish.

 

[the celt]

His parents and family friends have also set up a website 'Ronan Lawlor -- Missing Person' at www.ronanlawlor.org in both English and Spanish.

Hi Phil,
just put this up on horizons aswell,

here holy man you will love ruta 40,
and welcome to the pagan side

 

[Dave56]

Merry Christmas

Hi Celtic Adventurer, once again a fascinating write-up, shame about the lost pictures, you must have been gutted.

Like to think that they`ll be a book at the end of your adventure, would make fascinating reading, it`ll be the nearest I`d ever get to such a trip.

Heres wishing you a Happy Christmas & a safe but adventurous New Year

 

[Celtic Adventurer]

Cheers guys! thanks for the wishes, Buenos Aires seems cool, have landed on my feet here! nice gaff (with a pool) !! , nice weather, and now off out to get some beer!! not looking forward to the cost of the parts.. BM are supposed to call me on Monday... Need a cuban and some wine first i think!

Will keep an eye out for Ronan, actually he was in college with my cousin. Heard about it. Nasty. Just hope is ok, from what i have heard where he went missing is pretty isolated, and rugged.

But Merry Christmas to ye all ! I am going to stick around here in Buenos Aires for a few weeks before heading over to do the Carretera Astral and Ruta 40!


Ps Celt, how is India going ? Got that shock fixed?

 

[Alte Wolf]

Can't believe I just found this thread after all this time

What a great ride/write up and pics keep em commin CA

 

[davegs]

Traveler

Happy xmas to you and congrats on your trip so far. I've just returned from B.A. and I can tell you blighty is was very cold, now very wet! so you aint missing much. You wil;l; find onend of routa 40 is tarmac but onlty fo about 60 miles they are tarmacing it all but this is a new road and so don't worry the gravel and dirt is still there!. Whatch out for the middle section as this is deep gravel and needs whatching. Ushida has some great resturaunts som 45 pesos for all you can eat try the large sauaseges as these are unbeatable.
The main problem I found on routa forty and routa 3 was the wind riding at an angle of 120 degrees!.
happy xmas,
Dave (missing Agentina) GS.