Early 1100R. No throttle cable free play.

[Brendan W]

I have a '96 R1100R with no adjuster at the twist grip and the piggyback cable to the right TB.
The cable seems original. It has BMW on the sheath and the ties seem original.
I was not happy I had slack with the adjuster fully loosened at the TB end.
If I remove the cable at the handlebar, slacken the adjuster at the TB and back off the throttle stop screw the butterfly closes fully.
Then I set 250mV at the TPS.
If I now reconnect the cable at the handlebar the throttle opens a bit.
The voltage jumps to over 750mV!?
I've had the twist grip apart, the TB off and on looking for kinks etc etc.... nothing.
The bike has been running reasonably okay but both BBS were fully in to keep the idle down and the TPS is almost fully rotated clockwise against the stop.
Oddly enough if I set the closed butterfly to 10mV and then pop the cable back on the voltage rises to about 400mV.
The reminded me of the Lentini numbers for a zero zero set.
Has anyone come across this issue before?

 

[Brendan W]

I think this is fixed.
The nipple at the twist grip end is not BMW and was probably fitted by a PO after the original broke off.
This eliminated the possibility of slack but the bike was made driveable, almost, by rotating the TPS all the way clockwise and closing both BBS.
Putting the cable adjuster locknut below the bracket gave me slack. Zero is 250mV, stop screw set to 380mV, BBS out at 2 and 2 1/2 turns, idling at 1050 and driving much better. I'm 80% of the way there I'd say.
What is the herd wisdom on replacement cables.
Having that locknut below the bracket is probably a very bad idea so don't do it.

 

[Riceburner]

New cables from motorworks or similar wouldn't cost the earth and would likely solve the issue.

 

[rustychain]

I would go for original BMW cables.

I recently fitted some Motorworks to my 1150 - they didn't allow enough free play on the LH throttle body.

The price difference on the 1150 cables wasn't significant.