Electrical installations on new bike

bosnjo

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Hi to all.
I'm waiting for my new R1250GS to be delivered sometimes late January. It will be my first BMW motorcycle after 35 years of riding. Original order was for white but today I've changed it for Triple Black. Base model, not Adventure.

I've done a lot of reading and research but there are still some things I thought I better ask here:

1) HORN - Removed double horn from my Suzuki DL1000 and I want to install it on new bike. When I was installing it on my previous bike I was thinking about including a relay but my dealer told me no need for it as new horn won't burn anything. And it didn't. It was just straght swap. 50.000 miles without a problem. Can I do it the same way on new bike? Any possible CAN BUS problem?

2) BRAKE LIGHT - My Topbox has LED brake lights. On my previous bike I tapped positive to 12V brake light cable and that was all. Does anyone know if there was isolated 12V wire for brake light where I can connect my topbox?

3) LED AUX LIGHTS - My intention is to install AUX lights with relay, so I go and pick up the power straight from the battery and use the relay to ignite them. My only doubt is, where to connect the relay. I want them to turn off when I turn off the bike. I downloaded Owners Manual for 1250 18-20 because my idea was to connect the relay to charging port but Owners Manual says, it stays on for about 15 minutes after the ignition on the bike was turned off, unless higher load was detected. The relay itself is very low load so it will stay on for those 15 minutes. Any idea where to pick up ignition feed for relay?

Thanks to all. I'm sure I'll have more questions when the bike arrives
 
1) probably best to use a relay as the Canbus is best to bypass when it comes to twin/airhorns.

2) should not have an issues with this.

3) there is a live switch feed under the seat that you could connect to with a pozitap. That way the lights will only be live when the bike is on.

If you want an expensive route, you could go the full Denali route. Check out the YouTube channel A Bike Thing. Steve knows his stuff but it is not cheap.

Hope this helps.


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It will depend on the power that your topbox's LED brake lights draw. If they are low power you should be OK, but they may increase the consumption sufficiently for CANBUS to spot it and throw an error (mine pulled too much and I had to move to HEX ezCAN)
 
Hmmm... Thanks blokes...
I guess the best would be to take the route of EZCAN or CANSMART. I've just found out that if I disconnect BMW horn the bike will throw fault code.
Without one of those two CAN devices I would need to cut into a lot of OEM wiring and that may not be smart to do on the bike under warranty.
Forgot to ask one more question above:

4) GARAGE DOOR REMOTE - Do you see any problem splicing into +12V for high beam to connect garage door remote? I have it that way on my actual Suzuki DL1000.
 
Ezcan or Cansmart is the way to go for all of this, Ezcan probably in your case. Everything can be run from that with no splicing at all.
 
My garage door remote is currently running on an internal 12V battery, but I’m intending to get a plug & socket to match that on the back of the 12V socket, so I can simply unplug the socket from the harness, plug the “T” in to supply the remote, and plug the socket to the “T”.

Haven’t bought the connectors yet.

Atb
Simon
 
You might have fun trying to mount a double horn as there is barely enoi8gh room for the standard (single) horn, and certainly no room for a double one. The standard horn I agree is pretty much pants, but you can fit the Denali Mini Sound Bomb and to make it even easier, Denali do a small loom for this which replaces the existing horn loom (plug and play), so it all works in line with the CanBUS system - it's what I did on my 2019 R1250GS and it works perfectly well (and sounds much better)

As for keep cutting into wiring for various bits and bobs - don't even think about it, you need the Ezcan or some other type of Fuseblock to bypass the CanBUS system.
 
You might have fun trying to mount a double horn as there is barely enoi8gh room for the standard (single) horn, and certainly no room for a double one. The standard horn I agree is pretty much pants, but you can fit the Denali Mini Sound Bomb and to make it even easier, Denali do a small loom for this which replaces the existing horn loom (plug and play), so it all works in line with the CanBUS system - it's what I did on my 2019 R1250GS and it works perfectly well (and sounds much better)

As for keep cutting into wiring for various bits and bobs - don't even think about it, you need the Ezcan or some other type of Fuseblock to bypass the CanBUS system.

agree re the double horn,but the hex and cansmart intergrate with the can bus not by pass it which is why they are so good,fuse block etc by pass the can bus
 
All is getting clear to me now.
As for the horn, do you recommend leaving BMW horn in place and just adding Denali mini soundbomb as a second horn through EzCan or I can just remove BMW horn and connect Denali Soundbomb in its connector using Denali harness adaptor?
Would that disturbe CanBus?
 
Yes leave original in place and wired up

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And yes use the hex to add other horn, consider the bigger denali horn as it's much much louder than the mini

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All is getting clear to me now.
As for the horn, do you recommend leaving BMW horn in place and just adding Denali mini soundbomb as a second horn through EzCan or I can just remove BMW horn and connect Denali Soundbomb in its connector using Denali harness adaptor?
Would that disturbe CanBus?

I've seen the 2 replies above - but why add additional wiring, have to configure and use up one of your EzCan connections? The Denali mini sound bomb replaces the standard horn behind the beak on the R1250GS - there is no room for a second horn and with the additional Denali connector is a clean plug and play which does not affect the CanBus system.

If you want the bigger Denali horn fitted, or you want to fit a twin horn, then good luck finding somewhere to mount them - using the mini sound bomb is loud enough (there is hardly any difference in dB between the mini and the bigger Denali horn - yes the bigger one is slightly louder, but the mini is not quiet by any means (and I've had both on previous machines), the mini doesn't require a relay (whereas the bigger Denali horn does as well as a 30amp fuse).

Your bike your choice, but frankly I'm very happy with the Denali mini Sound bomb, its mounting, wiring and the sound it emits!
 
The bigger horn mounts on a proper bracket well out of the way between the forks.

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... The Denali mini sound bomb replaces the standard horn behind the beak on the R1250GS - there is no room for a second horn and with the additional Denali connector is a clean plug and play which does not affect the CanBus system...
That is exactly the answer I was looking for. I've just ordered Denali connector.
Thanks

Still looking for the answer if I could connect my remote for garage door straight into +12V for High Beam. I have shortened the button on the remote already and removed the battery, so when it receives +12V it sends the signal to the garage door. I have it wired on my actual bike that way. I just flash the High Beam and the door opens.
 
That is exactly the answer I was looking for. I've just ordered Denali connector.
Thanks

Still looking for the answer if I could connect my remote for garage door straight into +12V for High Beam. I have shortened the button on the remote already and removed the battery, so when it receives +12V it sends the signal to the garage door. I have it wired on my actual bike that way. I just flash the High Beam and the door opens.

No reason why that would not work on the GS.... just tap into the live wire. As it’s only a short pulse it wouldn’t effect the Canbus. I have additional indicators on hand guards that are tapped to the live indicator wire.... no issues with that.


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