Electronic Ignition system
- Thread starter (RIP) Arkwright
- Start date
Sean Kelly
Registered user
The nice people at Boyer are sending me a micro-digital twin-plug box that is compatible with my 1.5ohm dyna coils. Cost is £128'ish. I'll be trying it our with Roger's bean can and it will be interesting to see if a) it works and b) there is any noticeable improvement. I'll post my findings in due course.
I used to be a big fan of Boyer but roger and myself had twin plug units that just wouldn't run properly. The curve was very strange and didn't match anything at all.
Hopefully yours will be ok.
Hopefully yours will be ok.
Sean Kelly
Registered user
Hi Rob
I saw your earlier posts about this and Roger mentioned the issues too but I confess to being curious and willing to give it a try. However, the £100 saving over other systems could soon be accounted for time-wise if it is problematic. I'll try and work out what my existing curve is like before fitting the boyer. For my RS250 Honda, I have a device that simulates ignition pulses which allows me to test the bikes systems without it actually running. Using an oscilloscope it also allowed me to work out the HRC map for the standard ignition.
I saw your earlier posts about this and Roger mentioned the issues too but I confess to being curious and willing to give it a try. However, the £100 saving over other systems could soon be accounted for time-wise if it is problematic. I'll try and work out what my existing curve is like before fitting the boyer. For my RS250 Honda, I have a device that simulates ignition pulses which allows me to test the bikes systems without it actually running. Using an oscilloscope it also allowed me to work out the HRC map for the standard ignition.
solidstate100
Registered user
There is no place for that kind of ultra modern technology on an airhead. Ball pein hammer, gaffa tape, and seat of the pants is what most here use!
chrisshrops
Registered user
Well I had to bite the bullet and buy the motor works system the other day,after months of my bean can getting worse.
I did sort of fix it for a bit with a good clean out and lots of wd40 ,however the tickover has become rather unstable rising to 3000,rpm not good for town riding lol.
I will let you know how I get on,if I get chance to fit it over the weekend .
I did sort of fix it for a bit with a good clean out and lots of wd40 ,however the tickover has become rather unstable rising to 3000,rpm not good for town riding lol.
I will let you know how I get on,if I get chance to fit it over the weekend .
Personally, I wouldn't use WD40, but if I did, I'd be very conservative in applying it. When I have had to lube the beancan in the past, I clean around the spring mounting posts, and apply modest amounts of either grease or oil. I always feel that WD40 leaves a bit of a sticky film behind, which is not what you need.
I have some very fine metal picks that are good for scraping around the spring bits, and this seems to do the trick.
However, I am considering the MWorks electronic beancan set up, so be interested to read results.
I have some very fine metal picks that are good for scraping around the spring bits, and this seems to do the trick.
However, I am considering the MWorks electronic beancan set up, so be interested to read results.
chrisshrops
Registered user
The big clean worked for a few months Roger,alas it just went back to sticking and racing Tickover when the bike was hot
I will let you know how I get on with it
Benjamin M
Registered user
I have the Motorworks electronic ignition kit though I am yet to fit it completely.
However I will say that the bracket Motorworks recommend and sell for mounting the larger ICU is a bit crap and that you'd be better off making your own, as I did, in the original position just a bit lower so as to clear the tank.
However I will say that the bracket Motorworks recommend and sell for mounting the larger ICU is a bit crap and that you'd be better off making your own, as I did, in the original position just a bit lower so as to clear the tank.
chrisshrops
Registered user
Good call I'm about to do this in the morning
solidstate100
Registered user
I fitted one about 3 weeks ago. Didnt have a real issue or problem witht the Motorworks supplied mounting bracket, sure its only folded aluminium but is light and strong enough, and the canted position actualy helps with a bit more clearance with the main loom plugs (at least on my G/S it does).
Seems a decently made bit of kit, solid and weighty, more compact than the OEM bean can. After fitting and timing it up, all good, bike seems to start a tad easier, runs pretty much as before. I did have to do a minor carb adjustment/balance after first fitting as the idle had dropped a bit but that may have been because either the OEM bean can was timed slightly out, or perhaps the advance weights were stuck/stickly giving some adavance at idle.
Hopefully I can now ignore it for the next 32 years like the OEM bean can.
chrisshrops
Registered user
I did mine today nice easy fit ,set the timing and balanced the carbs, all is well and running sweet
mavis cruet
Registered user
Motorworks unit - help needed.
Evening all. Just been trying to fit the Motorworks aftermarket bean can and i'm unsure as to how to set the timing initially b4 I start her up. Do I set the new unit to the same angle as the original bean can, or shall I set it half way between the two extreme adjustments? Does the amount of adjustment allow you to bugger the bike up if adjusted incorrectly...? Also, the ad on their website says ' just set the ignition timing and your away' - so Do I adjust the 'z' in the window like bmw say or how the guy who twin plugged the bike had it with the original bean can on? Hope you can make sense of my questions. Cheers, Karl.
Evening all. Just been trying to fit the Motorworks aftermarket bean can and i'm unsure as to how to set the timing initially b4 I start her up. Do I set the new unit to the same angle as the original bean can, or shall I set it half way between the two extreme adjustments? Does the amount of adjustment allow you to bugger the bike up if adjusted incorrectly...? Also, the ad on their website says ' just set the ignition timing and your away' - so Do I adjust the 'z' in the window like bmw say or how the guy who twin plugged the bike had it with the original bean can on? Hope you can make sense of my questions. Cheers, Karl.
Sean Kelly
Registered user
My plan when fitting my new twin-plug boyer is to first check the advance curve of the existing bean-can as fitted which has tweaked bob-weights and was adjusted on the dyno to best effect. I will then time the new system to give the same amount of full advance at whatever rpm that occurs. Small adjustments either way after that to try and detect any improvements.
chrisshrops
Registered user
Hi Karl , I just put it on halfway between full advance and retard and set it with a timing light ,it took a few minutes ,I did the valve clearance at the same time and then ballenced the carbs .
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