now that is intresting mate as regards no fault codes stored, I was always lead to believe(on good authority aswell
), that the valve although it may have seized, as you said it wouldn't affect performance, but would throw a fault code, intresting
Eliminating the exhaust valve on Camheads.
- Thread starter Nick V
- Start date
now that is intresting mate as regards no fault codes stored, I was always lead to believe(on good authority aswell
), that the valve although it may have seized, as you said it wouldn't affect performance, but would throw a fault code, intresting
I read two different fault codes on mine (2010 gsa) when messing about with the flap.
With the servo motor disconnected there was a controller fault showed up and with the servo reconnected and the cables disconnected there was a different code.
The servo motor can rotate 180 Deg. but the flap can only rotate 90 Deg.
Don't know how the controller works but if it sees more than 90 Deg. it shows a fault.
You would think that if it seen less than 90 Deg. that it would also show a fault, but doesn't.
Either way the bike still runs fine.
With the servo motor disconnected there was a controller fault showed up and with the servo reconnected and the cables disconnected there was a different code.
The servo motor can rotate 180 Deg. but the flap can only rotate 90 Deg.
Don't know how the controller works but if it sees more than 90 Deg. it shows a fault.
You would think that if it seen less than 90 Deg. that it would also show a fault, but doesn't.
Either way the bike still runs fine.
My experience is limited to plugging in my GS911 after freeing up a seized valve - no fault code seen.I read two different fault codes on mine (2010 gsa) when messing about with the flap.
With the servo motor disconnected there was a controller fault showed up and with the servo reconnected and the cables disconnected there was a different code.
The servo motor can rotate 180 Deg. but the flap can only rotate 90 Deg.
Don't know how the controller works but if it sees more than 90 Deg. it shows a fault.
You would think that if it seen less than 90 Deg. that it would also show a fault, but doesn't.
Either way the bike still runs fine.
Alan R
You are quite right, I noticed that it did not retain the fault code when it was all connected back up.
Only showed a code when the fault was present.
Unlike the other codes which stay until you clear them, V strange.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Birdseye moans about noisy anti social bikers. I agree fully with his points but not that aftermarket exhausts automatically mean more noise.
The flap valve is a very cynical device. At medium revs (where noise is reasonable on a Mk2) the valve shuts to keep the EU happy. At high revs where the engine is much more noisy it opens to let out even more noise.
The catalyst is supposed to clean the exhaust gas. However my standard system had a black tail pipe so unburnt carbon was coming out. My baffled Akraprovic shotgun system has a reddish grey tail pipe. This suggests there is much less carbon coming out.
Certainly using it unbaffled would be (very) antisocial but it is stated as unsuitable for road use. I have plain universal baffles fitted and the noise level is very mellow.
When I want silence I'll get an electric bike.
I avoid the peak district scamera vans by avoiding the roads used by the biker lemmings. Simple TBH.
The flap valve is a very cynical device. At medium revs (where noise is reasonable on a Mk2) the valve shuts to keep the EU happy. At high revs where the engine is much more noisy it opens to let out even more noise.
The catalyst is supposed to clean the exhaust gas. However my standard system had a black tail pipe so unburnt carbon was coming out. My baffled Akraprovic shotgun system has a reddish grey tail pipe. This suggests there is much less carbon coming out.
Certainly using it unbaffled would be (very) antisocial but it is stated as unsuitable for road use. I have plain universal baffles fitted and the noise level is very mellow.
When I want silence I'll get an electric bike.
I avoid the peak district scamera vans by avoiding the roads used by the biker lemmings. Simple TBH.
+1
And this approach seems to be spreading. If the anti-loud-pipe brigade want a suitable candidate for Public Enemy #1, I'd say the mainstream manufacturers themselves are only tailing aftermarket suppliers by a margin that's slim, and still shrinking...
I was going through Morningside, Sandton, the other Saturday on my race-pipe-equipped '09.
While I was stopped at a red, some guy in an Aston Martin Vantage came through the intersection at a rate of knots. Brand new car; only had a temporary registration. I only knew it was a Vantage because I'd had time to hear him coming and look in his direction.
And that exhaust was so loud, it startled me.
Bendy, are you sure your engine isn't running a tad on the lean side?
Maybe have someone check it out with a good four-gas analyzer?
Amen.
Each have their own reasons for loud pipes; mine is to stir one more spice into a very flavourful casserole.
The argument that 'the Plod' are going to come after us and make our lives misery holds no water. IHMO, some balance is called for here. In South Africa (and from what I hear, in the UK too), the police need a reminder that they are civil servants - not civil masters.
I forget where I heard it said... but how ironic that governments are spending more and more of the peoples' money on ways and means to control the people who supposedly control the government.
Either I'm not making making myself clear enough - or you're the one who's being awkward.
To re-illustrate my point: modern catalytic convertors consist of a very fine honeycomb matrix which, because of it's large surface area, must be housed using methods which address Bernoulli's principle in precisely the wrong way.
I'll spare you a blow-by-blow technical explanation, but what you're doing by introducing a cat is disrupting the momentum and free flow of escaping exhaust gasses. This increases their density by lowering their velocity, thus allowing more time for the heat carried by said gasses to be dissipated through the exhaust system, which increases gas density even more.
All these things increase exhaust-system back-pressure, reducing the ability of the engine to effectively clear itself of exhaust.
So in simple terms, you're placing a drag on the engine, which means it can only produce the same power by doing more work.
And the rider can only facilitate the needed power increase in one way: by opening the throttle wider to give the engine more fuel.
Hence the increase in overall emissions.
As for the rest: Petrol engines produce two major waste products: carbon dioxide and water.
The 'harmful' level of unburned hydrocarbons falls to almost nothing after the time it takes for a well-tuned engine to warm up.
Nitrogen oxides are another special case - but they only come about when combustion temperatures are excessive for long periods of time.
So for the most part, a catalytic convertor steps in and tries to do a job the engine is already doing quite well by itself. Talk about helping someone search their own trouser pockets for change!
Go to a second-hand bookstore and pick up a textbook on A-level physics and chemistry. Chances are you'll see everything I've just said.
Cats are NOT a solution. They are a figleaf. Another guise for the rapidly-spreading cancer of political correctness.
There is another side to this fascinating story - but let me not go into an explanation of the tremendous energy consumption, acidic extraction processes and bargain labour exploited in my fair country to get the platinum required to produce cats, so that Europe and America can stare at the rest of the world from atop their moral high horse.
Bendy toy
Registered user
When catalysts were first mandated somewhere around 1990, the old Top Gear programme with Quentin Wilson ran a pair of Austin Rover Metros around Oxford City. One was catalysed, one was not, but in every other respect they were identical.
HC emissions were very slightly lower on the cat car, but the difference was small enough to be experimental error. The catalyst car was very dirty on start up and took a while to get clean. It also ran dirty under acceleration - which is what any car does for 50% of the time in town (when its moving that is). The non cat car cleaned up faster while warming up and was less dirty under acceleration. Basically it ran leaner.
Net result was virtually no change in emissions but the cat car used 10% more fuel.
The intervening 20 years have seen major economy and emissions improvements, but I wonder how much time was needed to get around problems caused by the catalyst rather than provide genuine efficiency improvements. Burn less fuel cleanly = more work done for less energy used.
A major stumbling block was an EU mandate that said when an O2 sensor was used the car MUST also have a catalyst. On that subject, the manufacturers were not allowed to find their own ways to meet the emission limits.
The new ultra low emissions 2 stroke from BRP uses a catalyst but its only an oxidiser, presumably, to clean off any oil which gets blown down the exhaust. The engine uses a stratified charge so effectively runs with excess air but the mixture around the spark plug is always about 14:1. There has certainly been no power penalty with 160bhp from 800cc. Fuel consumption is 20% better than the competing 1200cc 4 strokes used by other (usually Japanese) manufacturers. There is now no petrol to wash oil off the engine internals so it uses a lot less than old strokers. Overall oil consumption is only slightly higher than a 4 stroke, except it does not need an oil and filter change every few thousand miles.
As its direct injected, there are no missed power strokes so no unburnt fuel going down the exhaust. I wont do that burble, burble, stutter, scream of the old strokers, but it lasts longer because the pistons are not clattering about and its clean.
Piaggio have a similar DI product which seems to be stuck with being a scooter engine.
HC emissions were very slightly lower on the cat car, but the difference was small enough to be experimental error. The catalyst car was very dirty on start up and took a while to get clean. It also ran dirty under acceleration - which is what any car does for 50% of the time in town (when its moving that is). The non cat car cleaned up faster while warming up and was less dirty under acceleration. Basically it ran leaner.
Net result was virtually no change in emissions but the cat car used 10% more fuel.
The intervening 20 years have seen major economy and emissions improvements, but I wonder how much time was needed to get around problems caused by the catalyst rather than provide genuine efficiency improvements. Burn less fuel cleanly = more work done for less energy used.
A major stumbling block was an EU mandate that said when an O2 sensor was used the car MUST also have a catalyst. On that subject, the manufacturers were not allowed to find their own ways to meet the emission limits.
The new ultra low emissions 2 stroke from BRP uses a catalyst but its only an oxidiser, presumably, to clean off any oil which gets blown down the exhaust. The engine uses a stratified charge so effectively runs with excess air but the mixture around the spark plug is always about 14:1. There has certainly been no power penalty with 160bhp from 800cc. Fuel consumption is 20% better than the competing 1200cc 4 strokes used by other (usually Japanese) manufacturers. There is now no petrol to wash oil off the engine internals so it uses a lot less than old strokers. Overall oil consumption is only slightly higher than a 4 stroke, except it does not need an oil and filter change every few thousand miles.
As its direct injected, there are no missed power strokes so no unburnt fuel going down the exhaust. I wont do that burble, burble, stutter, scream of the old strokers, but it lasts longer because the pistons are not clattering about and its clean.
Piaggio have a similar DI product which seems to be stuck with being a scooter engine.
I found this on the Power Commander website: http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Products/ESRM/powercommander_esrm.aspx
Yep, it's for a Yamaha... but aside from that, I KNEW I wasn't the first to have that idea.
why not just take the servo out and let it register a fault code that will only show up if someone reads it? who cares?
it's not like it's going to flash a big red light on the dash, or is it?
it's not like it's going to flash a big red light on the dash, or is it?
Interesting thread...
As i've just done a deal to swap my 09 GSA for an ex-demo 2013 GSA 'Versary'.
I intend to fit the Remus headers and Akra can from my old-un to the new-un.
So, its just a simple job of disconnecting the flap/valve jobby then..
As i've just done a deal to swap my 09 GSA for an ex-demo 2013 GSA 'Versary'.
I intend to fit the Remus headers and Akra can from my old-un to the new-un.
So, its just a simple job of disconnecting the flap/valve jobby then..
Interesting thread...
As i've just done a deal to swap my 09 GSA for an ex-demo 2013 GSA 'Versary'.
I intend to fit the Remus headers and Akra can from my old-un to the new-un.
So, its just a simple job of disconnecting the flap/valve jobby then..
Top man!
Yep, since you're replacing the headers as well, it's a paint-by-the-numbers job. Original headers, valve and can off, new headers and can on.
Leave the servo connected to the harness and in place on the frame, but disconnect the valve actuation cables from it. This leaves you free to bin the valve (or at least consign it to the 'Useful Spares' shelf). You'll be good to go.
Erm, umm... Hmm.
I confess, I don't actually know. I was under the impression it would - and having the master caution light on indefinitely isn't good for one's state of mind...
I could find out, but my Camhead's currently in bits at the moment for other work.
Thoughts on this? Anyone...?
Top man!
Yep, since you're replacing the headers as well, it's a paint-by-the-numbers job. Original headers, valve and can off, new headers and can on.
Leave the servo connected to the harness and in place on the frame, but disconnect the valve actuation cables from it. This leaves you free to bin the valve (or at least consign it to the 'Useful Spares' shelf). You'll be good to go.
Tidy....cheers...
Grim Reaper
Registered user
Done a similar thing on a Yamaha but cheaper..
I have an XJR1300 with an Over Titanium system fitted, and I made up the following cct (found in one of the Yamaha forums) to allow me to remove the EXUP servo from the bike. (compared to the exhaust, the servo motor alone weighs about as much)
It's been fitted for some 6-7 years and hasn't lit the service light once.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95548186@N04/11748886984/
Put it together on a bit of veroboard and plugged it in. I have it in my hands now and I can see I've used a different transistor to the one on the diagram (marked on the case as C547C [thus probably a BC547C]) and for some reason I've not put the 47K resistor in before the base (?) but it still works fine.
Can't say for sure which wire does what now (it's been a while since i made it and I suffer from CRS) but the alternative circuit I have
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95548186@N04/11748185175/
would suggest that the left hand side connections are what would be the servo motor wires, thus the right hand side connections are the position sensor wires.
The circuit I have made only has 4 wires out of the 5 on the plug going into it so i guess the VCC connection (Blue wire on the plug) is not used but instead it uses the feed voltage meant for the motor to fool the ECU into thinking there is some movement going on.
Hope this might be of use to someone cleverer than I am to modify it to suit the BMW wiring connections.
I have an XJR1300 with an Over Titanium system fitted, and I made up the following cct (found in one of the Yamaha forums) to allow me to remove the EXUP servo from the bike. (compared to the exhaust, the servo motor alone weighs about as much)
It's been fitted for some 6-7 years and hasn't lit the service light once.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95548186@N04/11748886984/
Put it together on a bit of veroboard and plugged it in. I have it in my hands now and I can see I've used a different transistor to the one on the diagram (marked on the case as C547C [thus probably a BC547C]) and for some reason I've not put the 47K resistor in before the base (?) but it still works fine.
Can't say for sure which wire does what now (it's been a while since i made it and I suffer from CRS) but the alternative circuit I have
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95548186@N04/11748185175/
would suggest that the left hand side connections are what would be the servo motor wires, thus the right hand side connections are the position sensor wires.
The circuit I have made only has 4 wires out of the 5 on the plug going into it so i guess the VCC connection (Blue wire on the plug) is not used but instead it uses the feed voltage meant for the motor to fool the ECU into thinking there is some movement going on.
Hope this might be of use to someone cleverer than I am to modify it to suit the BMW wiring connections.
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