Engine clean

[clogs]

Hi there, I'm fairly new to this site though have had my bike since 1986. The push rod seals a weeping, the tank paint job (on insurance after it was stolen 20y ago) is nothing like original and is blistered, and the engine is very tired looking. Plus, the frame is showing some superficial rust. Friends tell me to leave it as it's honest but I wonder whether I should clean it up, repair the seals and get a new paint job. Trobble is I'm not an experienced engineer but willing to learn now I'm semi retired).

Can anyone point me to sites or places where I could get a proper BMW paint job, an engine clean and repaint and whether I go for enamelling of the frame or powder coating (if so who with?) etc.

Any pointers welcome. I don't want to end up with a machine to show off or take to shows. I just want something which is not flaking and where the bike is better protected from rust for another few years. I am looking at YT videos and think I can manage the seals - I also have an old mate who can step-in if I f up.

Hugh

 

[clogs]

sorry, between file (landscape view) and web the image has been rotated - here's another try. They're on level ground when they leave my computer...

 

[tuftywhite]

You might talk to Mikeyboy.

Have a look at some of his threads in the Airhead section.

 

[squibb34]

Sorry, but this is how many older bikes end up as basket cases.

You need to decide what you actually want - once you start, where does it stop. What is the budget & expectations when it comes to the end product?

IMHO it looks perfectly viable as it is - just fix what needs repairing, keep on top of maintenance, a little local use of black hammerite where needed or spray with ACF 50 & ride.

 

[Nin]

Yes the term “slippery slope” is one to think hard about. I advised a guy recently who wanted to do exactly this to his Guzzi, having done three of my own bikes now. (Well, two and a half as Tufty will remind me).

My advice was if you’re going to the hassle of doing it, then don’t go half measures because you’ll regret it.

Otherwise, get it working perfectly mechanically and ride it. That’ll be much cheaper and faster.

He wisely chose the latter.

 

[tuftywhite]

I had my g/s rebuilt in 2001 as the frame had started to go rusty and the wiring was brittle and kept failing.

Problem after problem and I didn't want to keep dripping cash at it not knowing where it would end, so bit the bullet. However, it was nearer £10k to get it done.

I'm not saying that yours needs that much doing to it, however, there's a list of what you want. Then you'll think, well, if it's down to the frame to get that painted, I may as well get ...... sorted etc. etc.

That's where it gets expensive. You don't want to put a dirty engine into a clean frame and shiny tank and panels. Where do you stop?

Mine was totally worth the money. I've now had 11 years of trouble free riding with the bike. Mikeyboy has since rebuilt the gearbox with a high 5th but apart from that it's been great.

 

[SteveHop]

I would leave it "honist" , it wouldn't take much to clean that up a bit and it would look ok
Paint the rocker covers .
Clean up the engine casing and bevel.

Depends how much time you have on your hands and weather or not you like doing it or not.

 

[VAL. H.]

I'm doing something similar to my R80 outfit now. Started as a fork swap https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/576564-Fork-swap I have considered stripping the whole rig and having the frame done. I originaly planed covering the rusty bits with oil and just ride it. I've ended up rubbing down the rust, painting it with kurust and then hamerite smooth. It looks much better than it did before and probably will do for a good time to come.

I've cleaned the engine up with a brush. But mine is mostly just the white fleks of storage corosion, rather than oil.

 

[The Other PaulG]

I would leave it "honist" , it wouldn't take much to clean that up a bit and it would look ok
Paint the rocker covers .
Clean up the engine casing and bevel.

Depends how much time you have on your hands and weather or not you like doing it or not.

... and do the leaking pushrod tube seals so it'll stop dripping oil. In fact I'd just do the seals.

 

[SteveHop]

For years i used Hammerite smooth but last year i discovered "Simoniz tough " . Good stuff , drys quicker and easy to use .

 

[scooter paul]

For years i used Hammerite smooth but last year i discovered "Simoniz tough " . Good stuff , drys quicker and easy to use .

I agree. For aerosol use Simoniz Tough is hard to beat. No primer required. I use it on frames, Handlebar levers etc.

 

[dogshome]

I agree with opinions above. Either go for it everywhere and uncover things that are not quite right, but serviceable = lots of unexpected spending. Or carry out running repairs such as the pushrod seal and give her a huge cleaning. I'd get a bike lft, a box of scotchbrite, Autosol, Gunk, stiff brushes and several bottle of beer gathered

You will find the seized exhaust nuts, rusted cross pipe that is hanging on, probably more wear in the bore than you'd like etc etc. That's just doing the pushrod seals.

I can recommend Dream Machine in Nottingham for paint. Not cheap but very, very good. I would only do that if going whole hog on the rest of the bike though.

 

[clogs]

Engine clean (update)

Thanks for all the advice guys. V welcome. Given my purse, your advice, that of my Velo friends and my boys, the limited approach is a winner. I can get the engine cover, chain case, rocker covers and this rear sub frame powder costed for £150 which seems reasonable. The push rod seals are so leaky now I think I've got to try to do them. A mate in Bristol - ex mechanic of 40y experience with BM's - has promised to help if (when) I get stuck. Gonna look up Simoniz tough, thanks.

On another note, does anyone have an opinion about the 'longer' 5th gear some people fit. I've heard it helps cruising at 60-70.

Hugh

 

[SteveHop]

Here you go , this would help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6660xLXZbLk&ab_channel=LASERINDUSTRIESPTYLTD

 

[Vulpine2]

Who knew that laser cleaning was a thing? Useful in certain circumstances but I'd guess that needing direct line of sight would be a bit limiting - a solution in search of a problem?

Longer top gear? I'd ride the bike for a while first, find the engine's sweet spot and see how you get on.
The longer gear only adds 5-6%, so not a huge difference, and cost of the gear alone is at least £135 - never mind the cost of stripping and rebuilding the box. I'd like one on my '89 r100gs but it's only going to happen if the gearbox needs to come apart for some other reason.

 

[clogs]

Thanks again. As I said I’ll do a limited clean up and repaint job. Not sure I want a bike as clean as a laser clean. Didn’t immediately see cost…

Two additional qu’s:

(1) is simonz tough ok on the engine cover etc (bits that get v hot)?

(2) a link from here or somewhere on this site took me to a fascinating German video with subtitles on YouTube about the origins the GS. Can anyone supply the link as I can’t find it in my ‘history’ or by searching high and low.

PS re longer 5th gear, Vulpine 2 - you say ride the bike for a while first. More then than the 35y I’ve had it? No one is saying get the longer 5th gear. Doesn’t sound worth the £400-500 it would cost.

Hugh

 

[tuftywhite]

I have the longer 5th on my g/s.

It makes a bit of difference, but I was getting my gearbox rebuilt anyway, so it was a less of a decision. I don't think I'd have a gearbox rebuild just to change the 5th gear.

 

[scooter paul]

I have the longer 5th on my g/s.

It makes a bit of difference, but I was getting my gearbox rebuilt anyway, so it was a less of a decision. I don't think I'd have a gearbox rebuild just to change the 5th gear.

I agree. I’ve had a gearbox with the taller 5th. Unless you’re spending hours on the motorway or flat out across the Sahara I wouldn’t rebuild a box just for this mod.

 

[clogs]

 

[Vulpine2]

PS re longer 5th gear, Vulpine 2 - you say ride the bike for a while first. More then than the 35y I’ve had it? No one is saying get the longer 5th gear. Doesn’t sound worth the £400-500 it would cost.

Hugh

Ooops.
Read your original post a few days before I posted reply - by which time I was thinking the bike was new to you (as opposed to you being new to the forum). Others have posted since & general consensus seems to be don't bother - unless the gearbox is apart anyway. IIRC the sweet spot on my bike is around 4500rpm - probably around 60mph in top so the longer gear would only make 3mph difference at those revs.