Engine died.

Egon

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Came back up the A9 this evening, twas raining but no more so than I'm used too.
Between Blair Atholl and Drumochter I'm sitting doing an indicated 75 when I lose all power from the engine. No firing at all.
Coast to a stop at a handy layby and try to restart but nothing.
Turns over ok and can hear the fuel pump pressurise but no start.

Ended up getting recovered back to Kinloss, the shame of it.:o

Anyone got any thoughts :nenau

Could it be this Halls sensor I have heard mentioned.
 
Whatever it was it must be catching my 1150 started fine this morning and got about 500yds before dieing. Restarts but wont run and the rev counter is bouncing around and the clock has reset to zero.:nenau Other than washing it over the weekend I cant understand why. Waiting to get through to the AA at present for help
 
Know the feeling mine is still laid up after four or so weeks. Mine died in similar circumstances and is suffering from flooding (injectors are not shutting off). Fuel was pissing out of the lower exhaust bracket when motor cranked.

Hope you don't wait long for recovery and they send a vehicle capable of recovering a bike. Four hours for me after they thought they were picking up a BMW car. :blast
 
Sounds a bit like mine. Except it was OK until I stopped the engine, then did those tricks when I turned the ignition on, though sometimes nothing happened, then it started and ran OK. When I wash mine (rather than nature doing it for me), I tend to use a pressure washer, but hadn't for a week or so before this materialised. I'm going to try a new Hall sensor :eek and hope it does the job, because long runs are overdue for starting....
 
I have just tried this as recommended by steptoe on another thread

Here's a secret- don't tell anyone.

Turn on the ignition, listen to the fuel pump fire up then stop.

keep the ignition turned on, put the bike into gear.

Turn the rear wheel around very slowly.

Listen for the fuel pump to fire up again at some point while rotating the wheel.

If it doesn't fire up, the senders fecked. - Who needs a £25K diagnostic unit

Now bugger off, i'm giving all my hard earned secrets away .


I put it in 2nd and the pump does fire up again when the wheel is turned.
 
A mere 2 hours and 15mins for the AA to turn up and the patrolman made an instant diagnosis "it's a motorbike best to take it to a garage" so had it recovered the half mile back home as luckily they had sent one of the transits with a tow frame on the back suitable for bikes (that may be why I waited so long). Anyway further info to assist diagnosis.

Bike spluttered and stopped
Will sometimes fire up but then cuts out
Fuel pump keeps running when ignition turned on.
Rev counter jumps about when ignition switched on
Clock reset to zero but then works normally when the ignition was switched off.
I washed it yesterday with the high pressure washer (lots of washing of cylinders).

I am tending to think the hall sensor is knacked or the wires/connections to it I will try the above diagnosis when I get home tonight i.e turn back wheel.
All in all a bit of a bummer as I need the bike desperately for Tue/Wed as I have 2 days of advanced training booked.
 
Fuel pump keeps running when ignition turned on.



I will try the above diagnosis when I get home tonight i.e turn back wheel.
.


If the fuel pump keeps running when the ignition is on, how are you going to try the diagnoses :nenau
 
Help has arrived :) Steptoe any thoughts on my next steps if as noted the fuel pump keeps running does this still make it the Hall sensor/ wiring harness. or am I looking at a duff Motronic unit.

Cheers

Jim
 
Update on my earlier breakdown
Tried the test with the ignition on and turning the back wheel and it kicked the pump in and out as per the test described above by Egon (via Steptoe.)
Took off the tank and checked over the wiring and the Hall Sensor connector beneath the fuel tank had a couple of small drops of water in it. Sprayed it with Silicon spray and put it all back together and it ran fine in the garage before going for a 10 min test ride, didnt want to go too far as it a long push home, which allowed it to come up to temperature and it ran fine :thumb2
Couple of points still concerning me.
Why was the fuel pump continuing to run this morning ?
Is it fixed ? and what other tests and checks could I do to give myself assurance that it will last for the next couple of days of advanced rider training ??
 
The bike has cover just short of 33k, was serviced at 30k and was due the belt changed at 36k.

The inner ring is what was found inside the lower alternator pulley which caused this
 

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New ( ok Hall sensor unit from Mart P's Bike ) fitted tonight and we are ready to rumble. Started first time. :thumb
 
Confused

New ( ok Hall sensor unit from Mart P's Bike ) fitted tonight and we are ready to rumble. Started first time. :thumb

Glad you got it fixed cos mine aint :thedummy . A question regarding the test you performed when you spun the rear wheel. Seemed to indicate the unit was working, picture of course indicated otherwise. Any one shed any light on this?

Simon
 
Glad you got it fixed cos mine aint :thedummy . A question regarding the test you performed when you spun the rear wheel. Seemed to indicate the unit was working, picture of course indicated otherwise. Any one shed any light on this?

Simon

The Hall sensors use magnets in their operation. if you look at the picture of my broken unit, the magnet from the top sensor is stuck to the right of the lower sensor.
This would give a shift in the overall flux and be like advancing the timing by 20 degrees.
So the fuel pump was still able to fire up when rotating the back wheel but it would have been at the wrong point.
The Bike may well have started up if I had removed the extra magnet but i didn't bother trying as the lower sensor showed signs of damage too.
 
After my hour and a half wait in the pitch blackness of Drumochter i have now invested in one of these for my tool kit
 

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