engine front cover

[Firefox]

Like many on here, I am interested in repainting the engine front cover, the aluminium bit. It would be easier to clean and prepare off teh bike, so a couple of questions:
1. The haynes book of lies says that you don't need to remove the timing sensor plate from the front cover to remove the cover from the bike. They say disconnect it. Where? The cable seems to run up into a large block connector under the tank and there doesn't seem to be a connector at the timing plate end.
2. Do you need to remove or displace the telelever in order to get the cover out, or will it slip down behind the telelever?

Sorry if these questions seem unnecessary or nonsensical, but after spending many MANY hours trying to remove the overtightened oil filter because I didn't check here first, Here I am.

thanks
Dave

 

[Steptoe]

. They say disconnect it. Where? The cable seems to run up into a large block connector under the tank and there doesn't seem to be a connector at the timing plate end.

If you can't work out where to find the other end of the cable where the plug is i wouldn't attempt to remove the cover.

The paralever arm has to be moved forward so the cover can clear the end of the crank to be removed. .

 

[Firefox]

Thanks

If you can't work out where to find the other end of the cable where the plug is i wouldn't attempt to remove the cover.

The paralever arm has to be moved forward so the cover can clear the end of the crank to be removed. .

Thanks Steptoe. If I have to remove the paralever (thought that was the back end) it's probably as easy to do the job in situ.
I did a quick trace on the cable without undoing any of the ties and thought it went into a large block under the tank. Are you suggesting that's not the case? Trying to avoid taking the timing sensor plate off and having to reset the timing.

 

[Firefox]

On closer inspection....found the connector. And I used to joint 2000 pair cables for a living! No wonder the phone system in this country was so bad in the seventies

 

[Agothaclypse]

Did Mine In-situ. Rubbed down Around the bubbling/flaking areas, Brushed on Hammerite special metals primer & Brushed painted using Hammerite smooth silver. Lookes O.K. & is still decent 18 months later.
See this thread

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166921

 

[Firefox]

progress

Connector found. Cover off. Cleanup started. That's three Cs, now where's the C4.

Although there's not that much corrosion on it, around the bolts and at the bottom, I didn't like the idea of trying to get a decent finish while dodging around some bolts in and some out. Also thought there would be more involved in taking off the telelever, simples really. So now cleaning and paint.

I've also got an RT, five years younger. That will most likely be done in place as it's the only bit needs doing. I've already done the fork bridge, fork sliders and crash bars, so this wasn't a step too far, I hope.

How did you navigate around bolts when doing yours?

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Firefox]

followed link

Okay, followed the link now and seen your job. Thanks a bunch, now I have to clean up exhausts as well.

Seriously though, that's not a bad job for the effort. But I'm hoping to do a bit better on the final finish.

Is the exhaust stainless? How long has it stayed clean since you cleaned it as described?

 

[Agothaclypse]

Exhaust is stainless. Was a bitch to get off tho (even though I left the CAT on). Polished up using angle grinder with wire brush attachment, & reassembled with plenty of copperease. The exhaust finish has stayed ok, exept for the usual bluing & the exhaust is now quite easy to remove. Next time I take it off I am going to replace the head studs with stainless studs & fasteners.

Regards
Paul
& good look with the cover painting.

 

[MattW]

Next time I take it off I am going to replace the head studs with stainless studs & fasteners.

If you don't mind the look (and you can barely see them anyway), brass nuts on stainless studs are good for the exhausts - they'll never seize again. I did this with my 1100 when I had to remove the exhaust to change a head gasket - broke two studs and changed them all for stainless.

 

[(RIP) Mark H]

If you don't mind the look (and you can barely see them anyway), brass nuts on stainless studs are good for the exhausts - they'll never seize again. I did this with my 1100 when I had to remove the exhaust to change a head gasket - broke two studs and changed them all for stainless.

Matt,
I would like to do this mod to my 1100, can you tell me where you got the stainless studs and brass nuts,

Cheers

Mark

 

[MattW]

Matt,
I would like to do this mod to my 1100, can you tell me where you got the stainless studs and brass nuts,

Cheers

Mark

Hi Mark,
I just bought a length of M8 SS studding and a bag of brass nuts from Screwfix - cut my own studs to suit.

The problem that you will almost certainly find is that the existing studs and domed nuts will have corroded together and will not budge no matter what you do with plus-gas / WD40 etc. On mine, the two inboard studs just sheared off flush with the head casting (not sure why it was just the inboard ones?...) - they tend to 'waist' slightly inside the exhaust flange which creates a weak point. The other four studs just wound themselves out of the head when I tried unscrewing the nuts - no problem as I was replacing them anyway.

On the head I was removing to replace the head gasket, I ended up taking it to an engineering shop to get the remains of the stud drilled out and helicoiled. On the head I wasn't removing, I just refastened the exhaust using the two remaining studs (new stainless ones c/w brass nuts) - Steptoe advised that there are loads of 1100 driving around with missing exhaust studs . If and when I ever remove that head, I'll get the stud drilled out as I did with the other. You may find you have to run a tap through the old threads in the head before you can install the new studs as they'll be pretty corroded. Make sure you use an anti-seize paste / coppaslip when you install the stainless studs (stainless and alloy likes to weld itself together especially in such an extreme environment as a cylinder head).

To be honest, if you don't actually have to remove the exhaust, it's debatable whether it's worth changing the studs just as a preventative measure (given the inevitable faffing you'll have to go through with broken studs). Of course if you have to remove the exhaust anyway, the decision is made.

 

[Agothaclypse]

Good Tips. I have started to use ACF50 Grease in place of coppaslip where I have a stainless/alloy union, as I heard that using coppaslip can increase the corrosion effect twixt alloy & stainless. Still use coppaslip for steel/steel unions though.
I thought about using brass nuts but have opted for using a stainless M8 long hex nut, that I got from stagonset (who I use for all my stainless fastener supplies) http://www.stagonset.co.uk/fasteners?t=1275384914&output_frontpage=yes&cart_id=5473916_20478

As you can see the thread goes all the way through the nut, so I will cap the front end of the nuts using M8 stainless socket head button screws

My reasoning is I can remove the button head screws & get my spray penetrant (I use loctite freeze & relaese) down to the studs. I have had the kit for a while, but as you state the studs are somewhat necked & it worries me that they will be difficult to remove without shearing. Although I have an array of stud extracters I think I will wait till summers over as I now have an XT350 that I have restored, to see me through the winter.

Regards
Paul

 

[MattW]

.....
Although I have an array of stud extracters I think I will wait till summers over as I now have an XT350 that I have restored, to see me through the winter.

Regards
Paul

My one and only experience of stud extractors lead to an expensive appointment with an engineering company and a spark erosion machine (a Suzuki GS1000 head, years ago ). If you're talking about male extractors, I think that any extractor which you can get into an M8 stud is just too likely to snap and leave you with a worse problem (as I found out to my cost ). I'd just do your best with releasant and deal with any sheared studs by drilling them out / thread inserts as necessary, either diy or by an engineering shop (I didn't fancy attacking it myself).

 

[Agothaclypse]

Yeah, Know what you mean, had simmilar happen on a GS550. Hardened male screw in type extractor snapped & needed spark eroding out. Luckily I worked in engineering in those days & was able to do it myself.
If I do shear any studs, given they are steel, reckon I could drill them out insitu & re-tap or helicoil /insert etc. if necc.

Regards
Paul

 

[dannyboy]

stud extractors are only found in the devils toolbox drill and tap every time but don,t have a go then take it to a workshop to get you out of the poo it will cost you more i have drilled out loads for people who had a go and totally goosed it turning a ten minuet job into major machining.if you do try it make sure your drills are sharpe and let them cut if you try to force them thats when the problems start

 

[Steptoe]

stud extractors are only found in the devils toolbox

Yep. And as i always say " usually recommended by people who've never actually used them", they've just read about them on the internet.

 

[DollyRocket]

Have you got before and after pics? I need to do it too but I am likely to make it look worse

 

[Firefox]

pics

didn't do before pics and haven't finished yet. Have got it bead blasted and the guy had a hard time getting the original finish off except where it was already corroded. Said it was way harder than powder coat.

Anyone know if Halfords do an oil filter to replace the OEM. Just having a quick look and found the champion C301 listed on ADVrider as suitable. Halfords do champion but the c301 ain't listed. The Motorworks alternative is quite reasonable until I add the postage to Ireland

 

[MikeP]

Anyone know if Halfords do an oil filter to replace the OEM. Just having a quick look and found the champion C301 listed on ADVrider as suitable. Halfords do champion but the c301 ain't listed.

Oddly enough, although they don't seem to list it (my local one doesn't either), they do stock it.

 

[MikeP]

Good Tips. I have started to use ACF50 Grease in place of coppaslip where I have a stainless/alloy union, as I heard that using coppaslip can increase the corrosion effect twixt alloy & stainless.

For some time now, I've been using Alumslip paste for stainless to aluminium and Alu-slip (a VHT version) that comes in aerosol cans (handy for squirting inside deep threads).

Both are available on ebay (though I see that the Alu-slip is only sold in batches of three cans and is now a hefty £50 ).