engine front cover

[Steptoe]

. Halfords do champion but the c301 ain't listed.

The champion filter doesn't have an oil bypass valve in it.

 

[Firefox]

?

The champion filter doesn't have an oil bypass valve in it.

I don't doubt you but what does that mean?

 

[(RIP) Mark H]

I don't doubt you but what does that mean?

Filters with an oil bypass valve can bypass the filter should flow be reduced due to a blocked / semi blocked filter, so as to maintain oil circulation albeit unfiltered, blocked filters without an oil bypass valve can reduce or prevent oil circulation. When oil is cold the bypass filter can also trigger because the viscosity is to heavy to pass though the medium, thus preventing oil starvation.
For what its worth it's best to stick to original parts for the sake of a couple of Euro's.

 

[Steptoe]

I don't doubt you but what does that mean?

Filters with an oil bypass valve can bypass the filter should flow be reduced due to a blocked / semi blocked filter, so as to maintain oil circulation albeit unfiltered, blocked filters without an oil bypass valve can reduce or prevent oil circulation. When oil is cold the bypass filter can also trigger because the viscosity is to heavy to pass though the medium, thus preventing oil starvation.
For what its worth it's best to stick to original parts for the sake of a couple of Euro's.

it's not likely to happen with regular oil and filter changes. But it's an indication of the makers filter quality v price mentality.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Check good auto factors that keep Mahle filters (OE manufacturer for BMW)

Mahle OC91 D is oilhead variant and OC 306 is 1200Hexhead variant

didn't do before pics and haven't finished yet. Have got it bead blasted and the guy had a hard time getting the original finish off except where it was already corroded. Said it was way harder than powder coat.

Anyone know if Halfords do an oil filter to replace the OEM. Just having a quick look and found the champion C301 listed on ADVrider as suitable. Halfords do champion but the c301 ain't listed. The Motorworks alternative is quite reasonable until I add the postage to Ireland

 

[MattW]

it's not likely to happen with regular oil and filter changes. But it's an indication of the makers filter quality v price mentality.

Bu**er
Didn't know that about Champion filters - I put one on my 1100 3000 miles ago - just ordered a couple of Mahle filters. However, it's got a full dealer history (so will have had OEM filters to this point) so hopefully it won't have damaged anything

 

[Firefox]

Thanks again

thank you Steptoe and Jaythro. I don't mind paying a reasonable price for a filter, but we're being ripped off here and the postage from Motorworks etc is killing. Will try source the Mahle now that I know the difference and the code.
By the by, My local BMW dealer has supplied an alternator belt No:12317681841 for my 2000 1150GS. It is considerably smaller than the original 11281341779. I've done a quick search and it seems the 1841 is for later bikes. Am I right or do I need to put the new one on with a crowbar

 

[Uncle Rob]

you have need the longer belt of the two then

 

[Firefox]

Yup

wrong belt alright. The good news is the right one is cheaper

 

[captain ken]

let flying jim do it

hi my mate jim did my cover for me he said the screws had to be drilled out a tw*t of a job he said,i think let someone who has the gear and time help you .cheers ken

 

[MattW]

wrong belt alright. The good news is the right one is cheaper

I still found the belt a right sod to get onto the pulleys - nice and loose once on there but very hard to get over the lip on the top pulley.

A tip if this is the case for you - get the belt onto the bottom pulley and as far onto the top pulley as you can (even working on your own, you should be able to wedge it far enough on so it stays put), put the bike in top gear and using the back wheel, turn the engine over (you have to use some pressure to overcome compression, but it's doable with the plugs in place). The belt will then wind itself onto the pulley.

Apologies if this is teaching grandmothers about eggs

 

[Steptoe]

Bu**er
Didn't know that about Champion filters - I put one on my 1100 3000 miles ago - just ordered a couple of Mahle filters. However, it's got a full dealer history (so will have had OEM filters to this point) so hopefully it won't have damaged anything

Shouldn't cause any problems whatsoever.

Unless the reason the champion filters don't have a by-pass valve is because the filtration is so shite there's not a hope of it ever getting blocked.

Be interesting to compare how many square feet of filteration material are in each make of filter.

 

[MattW]

Shouldn't cause any problems whatsoever.

Good to hear

Unless the reason the champion filters don't have a by-pass valve is because the filtration is so shite there's not a hope of it ever getting blocked.

Be interesting to compare how many square feet of filteration material are in each make of filter.

I have new Champion filter on a shelf in the garage - in the interests of scientific exploration, I'll cut it up and have a look Just need someone to sacrifice an OEM filter

 

[MattW]

OK - true to my word, I've just performed radical surgery on a Champion oil filter .

See here

M

 

[DrFarkoff]

Alternator belt "610PK4"

 

[Bendy toy]

Old thread but there is a good way to shift seized exhaust studs that not been discussed.

Heat the nut with a small gas welding torch. A very small plumbers burner or even a small chef's burner might work but most are too fat and not hot enough. The fierce heat of an oxy/fuel flame expands the nut and it will unscrew easily.

Do the same with the stud - Get it stinking hot and any seizure will give way easily due to the steel expanding.

On NON canbus vehicles arc weld is cheap and effective with the battery disconnected and fuses pulled, but with canbus on a modern BMW arc weld of any type is way too risky (ask Charlie Boorman).

Avoid aluminium only anti seize paste with carbon steel. The corrosion happens because steel is the sacrificial side of the galvanic circuit that forms between ferrous metal and aluminium. Its better to use a good high solids high temperature paste containing molybdenum and carbon.

Stainless studs should only be used with brass or carbon steel nuts because stainless to stainless threads will self weld (galling). They also tend to shake loose because stainless (and brass) threads dont spring together like carbon steel.

A well protected carbon steel stud is a better bet. Those with the green zinc finish (sold for decking etc) are tough. Then use stainless steel dome nuts to keep water out of the threads.

 

[Steptoe]

The fierce heat of an oxy/fuel flame expands the nut and it will unscrew easily.

It won't unscrew easily. As the studs on 90% of 1100 models are corroded and the there is no thread left for the stud to unscrew from. Hence why they snap off.

but with canbus on a modern BMW arc weld of any type is way too risky (ask Charlie Boorman).

.

You're confusing yourself - the 1100/1150 models don't have canbus, CB's bike you refer to was an 1150.
Plus it wasn't anything to do with the actual welding process/earth/isolation that caused the brake servo problem. It was a melting wire problem.

 

[MattW]

It won't unscrew easily. As the studs on 90% of 1100 models are corroded and the there is no thread left for the stud to unscrew from. Hence why they snap off.

That's the one

They seem to corrode and 'waist' inside the exhaust flange so when you try to undo them they just snap with the slightest pressure leaving a stud flush with the head casting (at least that's what they did on my 1100)

Drilling out was the only option...