Engine Housing/Gearcase cover

[matdave]

A bit of advice please, Last year I brought a used BMW1200GS (2004) from a reputable dealer and set -off with a group of friends on a trip to Europe. We got as far as Berlin when I noticed an oil leak at the botton of the joint between the front casing and main engine block. The local BMW could not fix my bike for two weeks - busy workload and anyway it would have taken some time to get the parts, they couldn't say whether it was the crankshaft oil seal or somethink more trivial or more serious.

So while my colleagues continued around Europe and I hobbled back to England and to the dealer for repair under warrenty - they changed the oil seals, put it all back together and steam cleaned the rear tyre. I suspect that the bottom three star bolts may have thread stripping problems, because since then I have done a few hundred miles and put my bile through the 35000 full service - same dealer. Now a few weeks later I have oil leaking from the same place and the bottom three bolts have again worked there way loose.

I'm thinkink that either retap/helicoil insert and redo gasket - I would appreciate any thoughts advice - we are off around Europe in two weeks, do the bits that I missed out on.

Cheers

Terry

 

[RickG]

So you're talking about the front timing cover?

Is the leak actually between that cover and the crankcase or is it dribbling out the bottom of the black plastic cover over the alternator belt?

If it's the former then it does point to the stripped threads not pulling the cover down onto crankcase properly. You will need to helicoil them and use some decent silicone sealant to make a good joint. Getting the cover off and on is probably the hardest part, especially guiding the strangely stiff oil seal lip back over the crankshaft without damaging it.

However, why not take it back to the dealer who failed to fix it properly last time?

 

[matdave]

Thanks for getting back to me - it is the former, the black timing belt cover joints are completely dry. The problem is time - I need to get this done this week, I can probably find a Bike mechanic who can do the repair if the dealers can't fit me in. The issue of repair cost is the next issue, as the original repair was under warranty, and in my opinion not correct, those bolts shouldn't just work loose - will they/should they pay the costs.

again many thanks.

 

[skywalker]

Very much doubt if they'll pay some one else to fix it. If its still under BMW warranty then you'll need a BMW dealer to fix it. Have a ring round the dealers there's more than just your local one.
If the oil's coming from the joint between the silver cover and the engine block then that would indicate stripped threads if the bolts are coming loose.
However underneath the black plastic cover you have a choice of 2 areas for common oil leaks - front crankshaft oil seal or the cover below it with 4 bolts and an oring seal which is for the balancer shaft. Have a look at those 1st

 

[RickG]

Thanks for getting back to me - it is the former, the black timing belt cover joints are completely dry. The problem is time - I need to get this done this week, I can probably find a Bike mechanic who can do the repair if the dealers can't fit me in. The issue of repair cost is the next issue, as the original repair was under warranty, and in my opinion not correct, those bolts shouldn't just work loose - will they/should they pay the costs.

again many thanks.

I sympathise with your position. The onus is on the dealer to fix it, and this time properly. It is not reasonable that they should charge you further for this. The bolts cant work loose unless they were never tightened properly, or as you suggest, are stripped. Have you checked this yourself, do they just rotate without tightening? Did you point this out to the dealer when you originally took it in?

If you get someone independent to fix the bike it's going to be much harder to extract any recompense from the dealer and also your 'evidence' of the continuing problem will be lost by the second repair. This may possibly be resolved if you take it to another main dealer (if any can fit you in) as if you are lucky corporate responsibility may mean they can agree a solution with the first dealer (ie who's going to pay). I assume you've fully explained the situation to the dealer and the urgency due to your impending trip?


I guess if you have no joy with the dealers in time you have to be pragmatic and weigh the cost of an independent fix with the possibility of no refund against the loss of the trip, unless you can postpone it for a couple of weeks?

 

[matdave]

Thanks for your info, in the end a local Garage - RWH in LIncoln, who are very experienced and everyone I ask only ever have good words to say - tightened the bolts for me, replacing one that was not tightening with a longer bolts - OK. (This one is now an allen key rather than a star end.)

I went home - look the guard off and cleaned every last bit of oil and crud. I then did 150 miles sat, 70 Sun - In town traffic, motorway and dual carriage way. Checked engine not a spot of oil - hopefully all now OK. One of the guys here has suggested that I might replace the sump guard with an 'oil trap' to stop any possible future oil leak getting thrown onto the rear tyre, another suggested thread lock.

Again I would appreciate any thoughts, as I say we are off to Europe this time I hope to actually complete the journey which includes the Stelvio Pass.

 

[RickG]

It's good you've got it sorted.

Threadlock will stop bolts coming undone but this isn't normally necessary for case bolts like these, it may act as an extra safegaurd in your circumstances for the holes that you suspect are stripped, but personally I'd leave them alone now they seem to be tight-ish, at least until you get home again as I wouldn't want to risk again disturbing a thread if it's marginal. Maybe consider taking a couple of spare screws and a tiny tube of threadlock on your trip if you're worried but if they have nothing to bite into they won't be doing anything useful.

If you are only losing the odd drip of oil then I'd not worry about it reaching the rear tyre. If you are losing so much that the rear of the bike is getting sprayed in oil then the leak itself is a show stopper in it's own right. As a temporary measure you could try simply stuffing a cotton rag between the front underside of the engine and the sump gaurd to mop up the odd dribble should there be any but it all depends on the size of the leak you are dealing with.

Good luck with the trip, hope it goes well. The stelvio is brill'.