Engine Wont Start - a different type

[Mark_S]

Just to be different, I don’t think this ‘Engine Wont Start’ has anything to do with the Fuel relay or radio antenna. I went to start up today, all normal, (bike on centre stand and in Neutral, fuel pump ran, red triangle out then yellow triangle out, no warnings on the display), pressed the start button and just got a clicking.

I thought that the battery (now nearly 4 years old) didn’t have the power to turn the engine over, so with a little assistance I attempted to bump it down the drive. No joy, I just got a back wheel skidding.

I connected a car battery to the bikes battery, tried again, no difference from above.

Not looking good now.

I removed the plugs and was just capable of turning the engine (in 1 or 2 of course) over by hand, but it was v difficult. (I know the 1200 is a big donk but should it be this hard to turn over with no compression & no plugs in?) I tried to crank the engine with the additional battery connected and just got the same ‘clicking’.


Now the question, is the motor seized / semi seized?

I have just had the 18K (Dealer) service and had returned from a 250mie round trip at reasonably high speeds, parked the bike up and tried it a week later, and it won’t start.

Anybody care to suggest what is wrong and what can be done to get the motor spinning again?


Cheers
Mark

 

[Pukmeister]

It could be the starter relay (in a yellow socket under the seat)? They are prone to corroded contacts in the relay socket. It could also be a loose battery terminal.

If you are getting a clicking, the starter is trying to engage (so the controls are OK) but gives the symptoms of a flat battery - probably a high resistance contact somewhere if the battery is good (hence the relay check etc).

Also pull the plastic cover off the starter motor and check for loose or corroded terminals on the starter motor, then check the motor is bolted tightly to the engine itself.

 

[cusi]

Try connecting the car battery directly to the bike terminals. You can then rule out a duff battery and go down Pukmeister's route.

 

[Mark_S]

Thanks for the reply's guys, I have removed the starter motor, cleaned it up so that there is a good earth return path. The +ve connection is brass, that was quite clean and reasonably tight and there was no corrosion anywhere else to cause bad connections. As part of the diagnostics, I connected the starter motor to another battery, shorted a +ve supply to the solenoid and the spline drive spun up and extended as if it was going to engage the flywheel. I know it was ‘off load’, but all seemed to be OK.

I’m just a bit concerned that the engine was sooooo hard to turn over even with plugs out, have you guys tried to do this?

 

[Pukmeister]

I’m just a bit concerned that the engine was sooooo hard to turn over even with plugs out, have you guys tried to do this?

Yup, and with two big pistons to move it isn't that easy which is why when doing maintenance I take out the primary plugs and engage at least 2nd gear if not higher then get the engine to TDC for valve clearance checks using the rear wheel to bar it over. Its also why it is so difficult to bump start a GS.

If your starter motor is good (sounds like it is) I would focus your attention on the starter relay and its socket wiring.

 

[Mark_S]

Thanks Pukmeister and Cusi.

I have just refitted the starter motor, no difference (there is still the clicking noise and the ngin, she not turn over) even when I have another battery in parallel with the bike's battery. I will have a look at the solenoid tomorrow, its time to have a beer now, fancy one?

BTW, how did the Lions get on.........

It sure is difficult to bump, it we have been pushing it down the drive and no joy, just some skidding and the engine didn’t turn over.

 

[harry]

I'd bet on a connection problem, bad +ve or poor earth. Check all, both ends.

 

[Deleted account 210609001]

If it's any consolation, I struggle to turn the engine over in fifth or six with the plugs out...

 

[Pukmeister]

If the starter relay or starter motor solenoid contacts are okay then I'm out of ideas. My rationale:

The fact that the starter tries when you press the button suggests that the bikes starter system is allowing the starter motor to work when requested (albeit badly).

A slave battery connected doesn't help so its not the battery (unless both are defective).

The fact that the (unloaded) starter motor spins and engages on the bench test proves the motor works as expected.

It's gotta be a lack of sufficient current flow through the starter motor: Either a bad supply connection, faulty relay or poor earth. Again, I would check the starter relay in the tool tray beneath the seat plus its wiring socket for corrosion or poor contact. If the relay shows which pin contacts are the secondary circuit, I would be tempted to try a 'hotwire' across the corresponding socket contacts to complete the circuit briefly and see if the starter works, ergo the relay is fecked. If nothing happens, the relay is good and the wiring itself is faulty somewhere and warrants deeper investigation.