erratic tickover after new gasket...help

Yes, it was missing from mine, I had noticed it when I changed my plugs and I used some silicone sealant and mine has been ok. I will get around to putting a seal ring in again, sometime.

Is the problem solved or is it still giving you fits?
 
Well ive buttoned it all back up, it is running a lot better but still stalls and still sounds like a Ducati, but it is running better....Now that it ticks over ( just) I checked for air leaks around the throttle body rubbers, spraying easy start in the area.. The revs do rise very slightly but the engine smooths out on each spray,....
The bike is going to Grimsby on Saturday for them to take a look see on their big computer...As always I will keep ya posted
 
My names Steve and I talk Ballicks!

The air temperature sensor that I said was broke is fine . . . . my multimeter is fubard :blast.

Borrowed an air temp sensor and put the multimeter across the terminals - same result as mine. Got my old faithful (30 odd years old) multimeter out of it's hiding place, connected it up and find that my air temp sensor is fine. Ballicks again :eek

Whilst I had the beast in bits again I too noticed the empty plug sitting at the rear of the engine. The only thing I can think it would be for would be some equipment thats required in other markets, such as the USA, for more emissions gubbins.
I also whipped the idle actuator off of the air box. Nothing obviously wrong with it, but when I measured the distance from the opening it fits into and the end of the hole, then measured the length of the piston that is the working end of the actuator, there is a difference of nearly 1cm - i.e the piston is shorter than the space its supposed to seal! Put it back together and applied air pressure to one of the bleed air pipes that connect to the throttle bodies, whilst blocking all other orifices off. Result - air flowing into the air box via the hole in front of the actuator piston!
Not knowing what position the piston should be at when "at rest" I don't know if this is right or wrong - just an observation.

Tomorrows stealer visit might throw some illumination on the problem. Just hope I don't have to wait all blo#dy day for them just to run a diagnostic on the bike with the 'puter.

And so the saga continues.

SteveT

:cool:

PS - nearly forgot - more water from the crank case breather found in the air box! Only did 15 miles between fitting the box and then removing today. can't imagen that much condensation being generated in such a short distance (4 short runs back and forth to work = 15 miles). And there is no drain hole in the air box that I could find.
 
Where the breather line from the airbox enters to and is attached to the rocker cover. It is a small o-ring that about 99% of techs will overlook to check to make sure it is present and not on the shop floor when they button things up following replacing the damn leaky rocker cover gasket under warranty...
 
Mikemike, I have a box full of o rings, all different sizes.. I can send you a couple of rings that will fit the breather tube if you like.. Tosh
 
Steve t...
Christmas is coming so a new dvm is on the wish list...
When you talk to the tech ask him about the piston not seating and pressurizing the throttle body tube, sounds very interesting to me...
Also while you are there ask him about you water problem..
I can see water getting in through the inlet snorkels when its raining heavy, is the air filter wet ? I mean soaking wet...have you run the bike without an air filter fitted? Can the injectors go rusty on the inside making the spray pattern change ? good luck... Tosh
 
Well that was relatively painless on the pocket. Half an hour of the mans time onto the books and another half just going through other bits - for nowt :D

Plugged the bike into the 'puter and the only faults recorded where those induced by me disconnecting the Idle actuator. To use the wording from the 'puter print out after fault memory was cleared - "reset adaption values and calibrate idle actuator. Result - OK"
The bike sat there idling as if nothing had been wrong. The tech insisted that I take it for a run to ensure no more stuttering on partial throttle.

NONE FOUND = RESULT :D :D :D

I mentioned about the difference between the idle actuator piston length and the space it sits in - he just shrugged his shoulders. Not knowing what the "at rest" length of the actuator piston should be, he just couldn't say if it was right or not.

When the water in the air box was discussed, again he just shrugged his shoulders.
I can under stand that the water is just condesnsate from the crank case breather, and that in the recent cold weather and my short journys there would be some water in there, but the amount was a bit of a suprise. He had no real reason for there being that much, so I will just watch it. I'm going to pop the air filter out later and check for water after the 90 mile round trip to Inverness.

He did mention that the F800GS doesn't like iridium plugs, due to the extra long & powerful spark that they generate (I fitted said plugs just 400 miles ago)! Don't see how a bigger spark could cause a problem meself, but I'll monitor the way the bike runs and change back if I think it warrants it.
His final point was NOT to bother using 98 RON fuel - bike doesn't need it. I use 95 RON anyway, being a tightwad :thumb

But the bikes running fine and I'm all smiles again :D :D :D

SteveT

:cool:
 
Steve, that's a great result mate...and thanks for sharing...I am hoping that the computer can sort mine without the need for spare parts to be fitted...
On the subject of the water, I would post a new thread and see if anyone has had a similar problem..Like I say, I have NO water marks in the air box what so ever...Cheers .Tosh
 
Steve, when you disconnected the idle air actuator, was the battery still connected? When I have been poking around, I have always disconnected the battery first and then disconnected the idle air actuator.
I am wondering if you disconnected the battery first and if you didn't, did you connect the battery and do a throttle position reset sequence (key on but no start, slowly roll throttle open and then closed and repeat)?

Here is a link to a pretty good overview of the device:

http://f800riders.org/forum/showthread.php/50935

Supposedly you can use the GS 9-11 to do the cycling of the idle air actuator which is different from the throttle position reset. I have yet to confirm if the throttle position reset is a one cycle or a 4 cycle procedure, meaning do you do it once or do you need to do it 4 times in sequence. Maybe someone can help with this, the local dealership's mechanic had no idea the procedure even existed.

Tosh, thanks for the o-ring offer, but I'll be sipping beers and receiving a few from a friend's workshop in a week or so. Cheers!
 
Mike,

On one occasion within the last week I did disconnect the idle actuator with the battery connected. I was looking to see if it was possible to remove the tiem without removing the airbox from the bike. It is, but the potential problem comes when trying to re-fit the securing screws - very little room to get in about and big risk of dropping and possibly loosing the screws somewhere.

However, I did ask the tech if the bike would need plugging inot the BMW 'puter every time I dis-connected the air actuator plug. He said that as long as the ignition was off whilst the plug was dis-connected and not switched on whilst dis-connected, it would not be a problem.

Had already read through the F800 thread and got a little confused . . . . but for me thats not difficult!

Didn't ask about the throttle reset procedure. To be honest, I've ridden the bike after not doing it in the past and have not noticed any difference from the times that I have done it, if that makes sense?

I did ask about that empty plug that sits between the throttle bodies - it's a take off for another power outlet plug allegedly. So now you know where you can get a switched supply of any extras that you fancy fitting . . . .as long as they are CanBus compatible.

SteveT

:cool:
 
Interesting about that little power take off plug. I wonder if the same connector for wiring in an aftermarket horn and relay will work from that location, I mean, what connector is compatible with it and what voltage and amps are available.
I have to do some fiddling tomorrow and I'll have a look at it. Thanks!
Just picked up a new air filter. Worked out to $530 pesos or about $45 dollars US. And they don't have the tub of free lube anymore at the parts counter so it hurt, it really, really hurt.:tears
 
Been doing a little bit of research into this Idle Actuator thingy and came across this . . .

http://www.hexcode.co.za/techinfo/iac

To me it goes a good way to explaining what was wrong with my bikes idle system.
Thing is I'm still none the wiser as to whether the actuator on my bike is on it's way out or got a dirty shaft ;)
Need to locate someone with one of these GS911's and have a play and see if they're worth investing in.

SteveT

:cool:
 
Its a shame you cant do anything without a 911 or the dealers. The bike is at the dealers at the mo, keep ya posted...Tosh
 
tosh23 said:
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51596&rnd=08102012 Diagram no.11-4705

13=fuel preparation diagram of airbox/ intake sound system

Item 19, it looks like a hose, can anyone confirm this ?
Click to expand...
They don't identify it for the F650GS twin cos it aint fitted to that model. Go to the diagrams for the F800GS and you will find it listed there . Same diagram but the list is expanded to include the bits that are found on the 800Gs and not on the 650GS!
And yes, it is a pipe that connects the valve assembly on the top of the airbox (F800GS version) to the read valve on top of the cam cover.

SteveT

:cool:
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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