European Adventure

Day 5&6 photos

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More updates later.
 
So now we have left the Alps. What an experience! I have always been intrigued about the alps but have never visited before. I can definitely say that I will be back!
The scenery was fantastic. And the roads were awesome! We were just amazed at how big the place is. 3 days to ride the "Route Des Grande Alpes" and that involved some long days in the saddle! we averaged just shy of 200Miles a day and when you are negotiating hairpin bend after hairpin bend then this becomes a very long day. Our last night was spent in Sospel before heading for the coast at Menton. This was really an attack on the senses after spending all this time in the mountains. the roads suddenly turned very busy and watching out for all the scooters was intense.
We are now on the coast road and have now entered Italy. Passing through SanRemo we have now hit DianoMarina for our first Italian Lunch. Pizza and Lasagne it is then!
We plan to go to Portofino this evening following a recommendation. but not sure what we will find in the way of camping yet.


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Photos whilst traveling from Sospel, France to Portofino, Italy (Day8)
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Day 8-following the coast.

The last report was completed mid day (at a much needed and well deserved lunch stop), when we were heading along the coastline to Portofino. The rest of the day continued with the same scooter dodging and slow moving traffic. We wouldn't really recommend the route along the coast due to all the traffic, however if you want to see fearless 14 year olds in flip flops nipping through traffic on a scooter this is definitely the route for you.
Once we got towards Portofino we started the daily search for a campsite. We managed to find a fairly decent one near Rapallo, although the pitches were a bit jumbled and as we couldn't keep the bike with us we needed to find an alternative clothes horse.
We out the tent up and headed back out on the bike towards Portifino to find some food. Unfortunately so did everyone else, well it was Saturday night on the coast. We finally arrived at the port and struggled to find parking, which is not something you would usually say about a motorbike. There were literally hundreds of scooters parked in every free space.
We then backtracked to the next coastal town where parking was a little easier and spent the evening eating seafood and watching the world go by. It was a tough night!
 
We initially continued along the coast to check out Cinqueterre, following another recommendation. We stumbled across a bikers cafe at the top of a pass, which turned out to me a nice stop off with great views. We then headed back down to the coast, with some fantastic twisties and fabulous views - well worth a visit.
From here we took Passo di Lagastrello towards Parma, this was an unexpected little gem and showed us that we were still in the mountains. From here we allowed the Sat Nav to work its magic and navigate us cross country to Lake Garda. At this point we hit the weekend tourist traffic as we followed along the side of the lake to Malcesine. Watching the scooters on the coast had payed off, helping us navigate the queue of traffic. It seems car drivers rarely get stressed in Italy, despite the constant weaving of scooters (& occasionally us) and cars blocking exits - no horns were heard.
We found a lovely campsite 1.8km outside on Malcesine and managed to nab the last spot. Not the cheapest at 29 euros, but very welcome after another hot day in traffic. Tent up, we nipped across the road (literally) and straight into Lake Garda for a cool down. Perfect. Following a quick wash and change we walked along the lakes edge to the beautiful old town for a bit to eat. If you've never been, Malcesine is well worth a visit. Narrow cobbled streets to get lost in, sprinkled with bars and restaurants- not to mention the gelato bars.
Another leisurely walk along the lake side back to the campsite only to realize we were camping underneath the illuminatied campsite sign! A quick improvisation with a tarp we were able to sleep pretty soundly, well once the earplugs were in to block out the Harley's and trucks passing by in the middle of the night.
 
Day 10- Malcesine to Vigo Di Fassa

Stats (combined for day8&9&10)
Mileage: 780km
Moving time: 17hr 04min

We could not resist the temptation of another swim in the lake before sorting our gear for another day on the bike! This was a great way to start what was to be another warm day! Once loaded, we headed off with the intention of completing some more passes before heading to Vigo Di Fassa to meet with some friends who moved there a few years ago and for a deserved rest day.

Before completing the first pass of the day we had the fuel light come on! Showing that we had 45miles range filled us with some confidence the we would make the 20 miles required to get to the next fuel station......the range computer lied! With 23 miles range still showing on the display the bike spluttered to a stop! What was really frustrating was that the sat nav showed we only needed a other 750 meters to get to the petrol station. Unfortunately it was all uphill! I stated the walk in the hope that it was open and I would also be able to get hold af a container suitable of carrying the petrol back to the bike! The service station counter was actually closed but I could get petrol through the self service pumps. Luckily a lovely lady in the cafe next door was able to supply my with a used 5l water container which worked a treat!

Following this little mishap and delay in the day we decided to head for lunch. We found a downhill mountain bike park ( read summer ski resort) that was serving lunches to hungry bikers ....we thought we also fit that bill.

As we are heading further north and further inland the mountains are getting bigger again and the views more spectacular! We are also noticing the large changes in the temperature as we climb or descend the passes!
We climbed slowly towards our final destination for the day and as we did the traffic started to build once again. You can tell the we are back in an area of great tourism especially in the beginning of August.

We met with our friends who decided we looked like we needed an ice cream and they promptly whipped us off to the local cafe where we were treated to ice cream topped with espresso (literally poured over the top). A first for us both but certainly not the last one!

Dinner that evening were some local dishes where we tried gulasch with polenta and also a pasta dish with sausage and mushrooms. Hopefully a meal to set us up for the following day walking in the Dolomites!

A fabulous nights sleep followed in a real bed, our first since leaving home. Bliss.
 
After just over a week of been gently woken by the sun shining into the tent, the shutters on our friends house meant full opportunity was taken for a lie in! Down for breakfast at 9, fueled by local cakes and Italian coffee we were out the door for 10.
A short drive to the gondolas and were were heading further up into the mountains (we had slept at 1300m), another chairlift (complete with dog gymnastics and training that BGT would be proud of) we arrived at the 2400m starting point.
From here we heading straight out along the ridge, carefully checking out footing whilst trying to take in all the amazing scenery. The Dolomites is one of the most beautiful places we have visited, the already dramatic landscape constantly changing with the sun and clouds.
After about an hour we manage to lose everyone else and seemed to have the mountains to ourselves, a perfect time for a butty stop.
We continued along the undulating ridge, taking time to meet the local horses and explore the tunnels and caves left behind from WW1. It's hard to imagine the conditions the soldiers had to deal with defending the front line running straight through the mountains.
We started our decent into the valley, of course stopping for a well earned refuel at a mountain cafe - one strudel and a local delicacy (a sweet onmlette with wild local cranberries ) later, we continued on our way. The scenery continued to change from harsh rocks, to rolling green hills, to waterfalls and forests.
After a full day in the mountains we headed home for showers and a delicious homecooked meal, Of course followed by the obligatory ice cream in the town. Unfortunately the rain came down so hard we had to stay inside and warm up with some flavored grappa. Another tough night.
Many stories and laughs later the headed home (avoiding the rain), for a well deserved sleep in a real bed!

If you do fancy a holiday in the Dolomites then we can definitely recommend http://www.fassadventures.com. A great family run business that will really help you to get the best from your precious time away.
 


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