Everyone check bottom yoke pinch bolts!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Phil W
  • Start date Start date
4500 miles and all were at 20Nm, so not loose enough to worry....but now at 24Nm. :D
 
Just to point out, if you check the link to torque values I posted earlier, the correct torque is 25Nm. I know there's not much difference but if you go complaining to BMW you don't want to give them the opportunity to say "you did it wrong".
 
the correct torque is 25Nm

I stand to be corrected and will correct the incorrect :bow

25Nm they will be... thanks Mouse :D
 
Checked mine yesterday and they were all loose. Checked everything else too i.e. brake, frame mounts etc and they were ok. Only problem was the pannier mount bolts which I have now loctited in.
 
Did mine. Three needed 90 degrees and the 4th was about 180 degrees.

Marked with tippex to see if there's any further movement.
 
I'm aware that this is the 2nd time this topic has run, the 1st time several months back.

When I tightened mine last time and then went over them again several had loosened in the interval of a minute or so.

Makes me wonder if the sharp edges of the inner part of the clamps are 'walking' around the stantions when tightened.

It'll be interesting to check mine again, tomorrow!

Peter
 
2 out of 4 loose

2 of the 4 on my 6 month old, 4000 miler needed a quarter turn!! I don't have a torque wrench, so had to make do with "well nipped" until i can get my hands on one!!
 
Steve said:
Not me. Nothing wrong with mine after 4 years.

Me too, Steve..........1150GS Adv checked tonight and fine......even come with 'lickle' white paint blobs from the BMW factory, to show they've been torqued and checked
8000 miles now and not moved an inch...........

80/100/1100/1150 GS's.........them were the days :clap :clap
 
Don't over do it !

Just checked my April 05 bike with only 2,200 miles on the clock and all needed between a quarter and half a turn to get them to the correct torque setting.

A word of warning (although it doesn't sound like it makes sense), but I would not recomend keep tightening your bolts with a torque wrench to the 24NM, as I once tried this thinking it would be safe for the bolt, until it snapped :eek:

Do it once and then forget about it for a while or mark the position and just check it.


Piggers
 
Would this bolt issue also affect the new 1200 RT's?? Just wondering... My brother has a new R 1200 RT so I will warn him, just in case....
 
Zmeagol said:
Reminiscences from the fireside with pipe and slippers, or just trawling?

Ah, Tim..............you had a nibble!


Seriously though, why should this happen on 1200's particularly, as the forks design has been tested on previous BMW bikes, only difference is that it's a bit lighter on 1200 series

This was posted by our American member, Guzzler

It shouldn't happen on the 1150, if they are installed properly.

From the service manual:
Slider tube bridge to slider tube
(clean thread + Loctite 243).......................... 25 Nm

Especially if they are installed with the proper loctite.

But if you are concerned, you can undo one bolt at a time, clean off the old loctite, apply new loctite, and torque accordingly.



So why isn't the same procedure followed when building 1200's, can't be cost-cutting.......must be a technical reason

Somebody may well enlighten us?
 
Loctite

Question:

If we tighten the bolts, a small bit or a big bit are we breaking any seal that the original loctite made? If so would this make the bolts coming loose more likely? In which case if they aint loose leave them well alone?

Just wondered. :o
 
Mouse said:
There's no original loctite (on the 1200).

Odd that, the 1150 BMW maintenance manual quotes the use of Loctite 243.

See last sentance below.........
 

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Interesting to note that the 1200 stantions are a larger diameter than the ones on the 1150 etc. i.e. the forks are similar but not the same. BTW the only crossover parts I believe are the front discs.

My reference to 'walking' above may be the issue.

What I mean by this is that if the insides of the yoke 'slot', where they bear against the stantion, are not at all chamfered then tightening the clamp bolts may just dig the edges into the stantion and draw the clamp together effectively pivoting around these edges that dig in.

Then with time and movement to sharp edges 'walk' around the stantion and effectively make the clamp loosen.

I have seen this sort of thing before in my engineering past.

Peter
 
Wraithwrider said:
Interesting to note that the 1200 stantions are a larger diameter than the ones on the 1150 etc. i.e. the forks are similar but not the same. BTW the only crossover parts I believe are the front discs.

My reference to 'walking' above may be the issue.

What I mean by this is that if the insides of the yoke 'slot', where they bear against the stantion, are not at all chamfered then tightening the clamp bolts may just dig the edges into the stantion and draw the clamp together effectively pivoting around these edges that dig in.

Then with time and movement to sharp edges 'walk' around the stantion and effectively make the clamp loosen.

I have seen this sort of thing before in my engineering past.




Peter


Agreed, makes a lot of sense :thumb
 


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