EWS Warning non-Starter

[Watty100]

2007 R1200GS, 83k on the clock.

Last ride out all OK with the bike, running as it should and no warning lights on the dashboard.
Next time I cam to start it, no joy. EWS warning on the dash, neutral light not working, headlamp on when it shouldn't have been.

I've followed the advice in these threads which have similar faults and fixes:

EWS non starter

2008 R1200GS. EWS on the dash. No neutral light. Dip beam comes on with ignition even though no start. GS 911 cannot connect to module. So do I buy a new ring antenna and try that or start stripping it down looking for broken wires first? All suggestions appreciated.

www.ukgser.com

EWS warning

10lb electricians screwdriver. You will feel good at the time. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

www.ukgser.com

and stripped back the loom looking for the broken wire, which isn't there. I've tried a new ring antenna by plugging it into the bike and holding the spare key next to it, no change.

I've unplugged the wiring at the starter/kill switch and tested the wiring with a multimeter and ignition on, all but the brown wire show either 12v or a micro voltage suggesting no breaks in the wiring back to the ecu.

GS911 is saying its getting no response from the controller, check ignition is ON, Neutral is selected, kill switch position to RUN.

Any tips on where to go next? Is the starter/kill switch able to be checked for faults, such as by continuity tests across certain pins, or by putting a jumper across certain pins in the connector to mimic it being set to RUN? Could it be the neutral switch at fault? Or the gear position indicator?
I haven't yet dismantled the kill switch block just in case it isn't faulty and I can't get it back together.
With a used set of switchgear being upwards of £80 I'm hoping not to have to fork out for one only to find it's not that at fault.

And this may be red herring, but I noticed the big wire on top of the alternator looks to have melted its insulation. As I said, no faults showing on the last ride and the alternator still spins freely by hand so it's definitely not seized and cracked the casing.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Not sure of your bikes year. Could it be the ring antenna?
Batteries in the alarm (if it has any alarm)?

Sent from my SM-S908B using Tapatalk

 

[botus]

I'm think if you have other electrical oddities

1) you may not see a damaged wire can happen inside the insulation
2) ZFE got old and gave up - beginning to see a lot of these dying on this and other forums

 

[Pukmeister]

Clean up the alternator terminal first.


I would be checking continuity across the loom from the ZFE pins to the ring antenna as a priority.

 

[landmarkjohn]

I have same symptoms on a 2008 GS (without alternator insulation issue you have) and am 90% sure it is the ECU at this stage and am about to ship it to a repairer ECU.de.

My research suggests that although rare the ECU can fail on these bikes.

 

[Santa-2512]

Did you carry out the handlebar rotation diagnosis
if you can recreate the fault that way, it's more than likely a broken wire

 

[Denroy_916]

2007 R1200GS, 83k on the clock.

Last ride out all OK with the bike, running as it should and no warning lights on the dashboard.
Next time I cam to start it, no joy. EWS warning on the dash, neutral light not working, headlamp on when it shouldn't have been.

I've followed the advice in these threads which have similar faults and fixes:

EWS non starter

2008 R1200GS. EWS on the dash. No neutral light. Dip beam comes on with ignition even though no start. GS 911 cannot connect to module. So do I buy a new ring antenna and try that or start stripping it down looking for broken wires first? All suggestions appreciated.

www.ukgser.com

EWS warning

10lb electricians screwdriver. You will feel good at the time. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

www.ukgser.com

and stripped back the loom looking for the broken wire, which isn't there. I've tried a new ring antenna by plugging it into the bike and holding the spare key next to it, no change.

I've unplugged the wiring at the starter/kill switch and tested the wiring with a multimeter and ignition on, all but the brown wire show either 12v or a micro voltage suggesting no breaks in the wiring back to the ecu.

GS911 is saying its getting no response from the controller, check ignition is ON, Neutral is selected, kill switch position to RUN.

Any tips on where to go next? Is the starter/kill switch able to be checked for faults, such as by continuity tests across certain pins, or by putting a jumper across certain pins in the connector to mimic it being set to RUN? Could it be the neutral switch at fault? Or the gear position indicator?
I haven't yet dismantled the kill switch block just in case it isn't faulty and I can't get it back together.
With a used set of switchgear being upwards of £80 I'm hoping not to have to fork out for one only to find it's not that at fault.

And this may be red herring, but I noticed the big wire on top of the alternator looks to have melted its insulation. As I said, no faults showing on the last ride and the alternator still spins freely by hand so it's definitely not seized and cracked the casing.

Hi, I had the exact same symptoms on a 2009 GS, did all the usual stuff you mentioned and eventually passed it to BMW Brighton he went through the same steps and in the end replaced the main ECU - I forget what bmw call it - and that fixed it. No warning before hand, just EWS fault one day. Good luck!

 

[Watty100]

I have same symptoms on a 2008 GS (without alternator insulation issue you have) and am 90% sure it is the ECU at this stage and am about to ship it to a repairer ECU.de.

My research suggests that although rare the ECU can fail on these bikes.

I'm beginning to think the same way, had a look at that website, 275 Euros to fix it.

Has anyone out there had the ECU repaired, did it last a decent length of time?

Did you carry out the handlebar rotation diagnosis
if you can recreate the fault that way, it's more than likely a broken wire

Yes, I saw your post and broken wire diagnosis, was desperately hoping I had the same issue and no-cost repair! Handlebars turned, loom pulled, poked, prodded, stretched, you name it I've done it to try and find a break!

 

[Pukmeister]

It might be worth speaking to an ecu repair specialist ?

( I was going to suggest BBA Reman but I just saw they are insolvent, it might be worth a Google to see who else fixes ecus in UK.)

Ever since the introduction of lead free solder there has been an increase in ecu faults, especially with BGA mounted microprocessors. A hot air station reballing may be necessary.

Does your bike have the factory fitted alarm under the rear bodywork ? I think from memory it takes two CR123 cells inside and can cause EWS faults when they fail. If not fitted there should be a canbus terminating resistor fitted.

To check continuity between the ring antenna and ecu:

Ring antenna wire 4 white/blue is to ecu pin 57, twisted pair yellow is 3 to ecu pin 55, twisted pair yellow 2 to ecu pin 43, green/brown wire 1 to ecu pin 8.

 

[Santa-2512]

The ecu is the ZFE as far as i can remember,

The alternative is a SH ecu & lock set, but will need coding as the ZFE & kombi will have different values stored so will flag an error

 

[RadioFlyer]

The immobiliser is wired to the BMSK engine management ECU, not the ZFE.

 

[Watty100]

Thanks to everyone who's responded, appreciated.

There are a number of companies on the web advertising ECU repairs, any recommendations of good ones, or knowledge of ones to avoid?

 

[landmarkjohn]

The thing I liked about ecu.de is their website recognised the model and listed potential symptoms that matched. You have to request a quote for repair which is valid for four weeks. That said I still haven't shipped it, too busy!